- Introduction: A Ski Trip In The French Alps
- Review: Lufthansa Lounge Boston Airport (BOS)
- Review: Lufthansa First Class Lounge Boston Airport (BOS)
- Review: Lufthansa First Class Airbus A340-600 (BOS-MUC)
- Review: Lufthansa First Class Lounge Munich Airport (MUC)
- Review: Air Dolomiti Business Class Embraer E195 (MUC-GVA)
- Review: The Woodward Hotel Geneva, Oetker Collection
- Review: Airelles Val d’Isère, France (Perfect!)
- Review: Four Seasons Megeve, France
Welcome to my next trip report series, which will cover a recent ski trip that we took to the French Alps. You can expect reviews of Lufthansa’s A340 first class, Air Dolomiti’s E195 business class, and a few luxury hotels.
In this post:
Why we took this trip
A majority of the trip reports that I’ve published recently have been “pure” review trips, which is to say that I traveled exclusively to be able to review certain airline products, with some hotel reviews thrown in as well. This includes my whirlwind Aeroplan adventure, my four trips across the Atlantic, and my new era of German business class trip.
This trip was more of a vacation, in the sense that Ford went with me, and we actually spent some time on the ground. The main focus of this series will be reviews of a few luxury hotels, though there will also be some flight reviews.
Why did we decide to go to the Alps? Well, Ford likes skiing (I enjoy being in pretty places with snow, but not necessarily skiing), so we try to go on at least one ski trip every year. While the US has lots of resorts with great skiing conditions, you can’t beat the quality of hotels and the amazing dining options you’ll find in Europe, even in places like Aspen.
I by no means want to suggest that the trip was cheap, but I do think you get a lot more value at ski resorts in Europe than the United States, as there are actually some exceptional hotels that are significantly less expensive than the top ski hotels in the United States, while including a lot more.
The airlines we flew on this trip
Even though we’d be spending most of our time on this trip in France, the most convenient major airport to fly into for many skiing destinations is Geneva, Switzerland (GVA).
For the outbound portion of this journey, I managed to snag some Lufthansa first class award availability. I’ve reviewed Lufthansa’s 747-8 first class many times before, so my goal was to review Lufthansa’s A340-600 first class, given that the airline recently brought back these jets.
I managed to book the following around a week in advance, for 100,000 Air Canada Aeroplan points plus $74.34 in taxes and fees per person (the first flight was in first class, while the second flight was in business class):
3/14 LH425 Boston to Munich departing 9:05PM arriving 9:25AM (+1 day)
3/15 LH2384 Munich to Geneva departing 11:20AM arriving 12:30PM
Not only was I looking forward to reviewing Lufthansa’s A340-600 first class, but I was also looking forward to experiencing Air Dolomiti’s E195 business class, which is currently operating on behalf of Lufthansa between Munich and Geneva.
In addition to flight reviews, you can expect reviews of the following lounges:
- The Lufthansa Lounge Boston (BOS)
- The Lufthansa First Class Lounge Boston (BOS)
- The Lufthansa First Class Lounge Munich (MUC)
For the return portion of the trip, we ended up booking Emirates A380 first class from Milan to New York. This became bookable several days before our return, and I booked it using 102,000 Emirates Skywards miles plus $150 in taxes and fees per person.
I won’t be reviewing this flight, simply because I’ve recently reviewed Emirates’ A380 first class on the same route in the other direction, and virtually nothing has changed (except caviar is now officially “unlimited”). I know some might enjoy an updated review, but I’m trying to keep my trip reports moving along, and I’d rather put my efforts into reviewing a new product on an upcoming trip.
The hotels we stayed at on this trip
During this trip we stayed at three different hotels, all of which were new to us.
We first had a night in Geneva, and decided to stay at The Woodward Hotel, which belongs to Oetker Collection. I had never stayed at an Oetker Collection hotel before, but had heard great things about the brand, so was excited to experience it. The Woodward has only 26 accommodations, and is an all-suite property.
Next up, we stayed at Airelles Val d’Isère. I’ve become a huge fan of Airelles in the past year. It’s a French hotel brand with just five properties, and prior to this stay we had stayed at three of them — Airelles Courchevel, Airelles Saint-Tropez, and Airelles Gordes. We figured that this year we’d check out the brand’s other ski property, Airelles Val d’Isère, and it sure didn’t disappoint.
Lastly, we decided to check out the Four Seasons Megeve on the way home. I’m a huge fan of Four Seasons, though I was curious to see how the global hotel brand compared to some of the more “local” options.
In the individual review posts I’ll talk more about how we booked each of these hotels.
I totally understand that these luxury non-points hotel reviews interest some and not others. I’ve done a lot of points travel content lately, and still enjoy checking out some luxury properties belonging to other hotel groups, including some local and more boutique options.
Bottom line
My next trip report series will cover a recent ski trip in the French Alps, and will include reviews of Lufthansa’s A340 first class and Air Dolomiti’s E195 business class, as well as reviews of The Woodward Geneva, Airelles Val d’Isère, and Four Seasons Megeve. Thanks for reading, and stay tuned!
@lucky : why bother skiing Europe when there’s Whistler Blackcomb right here in North America ?
And there’s Four Seasons and Westin at Whistler for reviewing
Maybe Zermatt would change my mind, but Chamonix sure didn’t
And were you there to actually ski (or board), or there to enjoy the glam indoor pool ?
Ben, I understand you fly by and review for business/ first class. Do you plan to cover any reviews for travelers flying Econ or Premium Econ? I don't think I have seen reviews on Econ class on your blog in the past 4-5 years (but correct me if I am wrong); maybe few reviews on Premium Econ, but that's it.
I am sure some of us fly Econ and Prem. Econ due to lack...
Ben, I understand you fly by and review for business/ first class. Do you plan to cover any reviews for travelers flying Econ or Premium Econ? I don't think I have seen reviews on Econ class on your blog in the past 4-5 years (but correct me if I am wrong); maybe few reviews on Premium Econ, but that's it.
I am sure some of us fly Econ and Prem. Econ due to lack of business/ first class availability. Hence, I would appreciate some reviews in these classes. Besides, it'd be great to compare and know the difference, at least knowing if/ when it's worth flying by J or F class (e.g., distance is one big factor).
All those crying "where's the baby?" - at home. Neither first class, nor business class, not to mention luxury hotels, are NOT places for infants who will not remember a single thing but WILL spoil trips for everyone else. Be considerate. Children on the other hand? Very welcome.
Business class within Europe is the same seats as economy but with the middle seat empty. It seems most of the hotels are boutique not part of chains?
As someone who lives in Geneva, I am always shocked at the picks of American tourists. Megève and Chamonix are cute mountain towns but they are NOT great for skiing.
They are less than one hour from geneva, so perfect place to own an all year long chalet. Megève is low altitude and just like Gstaad does not get enough snow those last years and they are meant for beginners (= children). Gstaad and...
As someone who lives in Geneva, I am always shocked at the picks of American tourists. Megève and Chamonix are cute mountain towns but they are NOT great for skiing.
They are less than one hour from geneva, so perfect place to own an all year long chalet. Megève is low altitude and just like Gstaad does not get enough snow those last years and they are meant for beginners (= children). Gstaad and Chamonix ski areas are split in tiny pieces so I would also not recommend those. There are dozains of well connected massive ski areas in the alps, you should book something where the slopes are mostly above 2000m
However I approve of Val D'Isère as one of the top ski resorts in the world. You should try Zermatt also, plenty of lovely hotels (omnia, Cervo) and the ski infrastructures are great and it is less crowded.
It you want a top point hotel not far from Geneva with decent amount of snow, there is a new six senses in Crans Montana.
Nicolas, first of all congratulations on your move from Leipzig to Geneva. That must be exciting for you.
Secondly, Val d'Isère is great if you're looking for a budget holiday with fellow bus-trippers. I agree someone of your economic means should go there.
Ben's choices are solid for the aspirational travel, however. You can google what aspirational means.
Hmm?
Your aspiration is definitely to make nosense and to think basic French words are sophisticated.... I am sorry your family couldn't afford to send you to Le Rosey and that you can't ski properly.
Love. Bisous.
Frankly, I agree with much that you said. If you’re an accomplished skier Switzerland is NOT the best choice. Other than Verbier there is very little steep skiing. Zermatt is a bore…with long walks in the morning dependent on where you’ve booked lunch…..The Austrian Alps, above the tree line, have FAR better skiing.
Great points! In fact, I would rather ski in Ischgl, Arlberg, Kitzbuhel or Fanningberg (for starters) in Austrian Alps.
I would go nuts if I ever flew LH F again. Smoking a cigar and drinking scotch while being driven across the tarmac.
Ben, since I imagine the hotel stays were fixed, do you have "backup" flight plans in case there won't be First availability last-minute?
I'm now in Tokyo, and looking like crazy for award availability back home (TLV), and it seems too stressful for me ;)
Just came back up from the Alps. Was with our 5 yo. We stayed at a Club Med. First time at a Club Med and it was quite of a shock. But overall it was positive.
The main benefit is the ability to drop your child at 8:30am and pick up at 5pm. Great way to really enjoy a skiing holiday with your s/o when your child is still learning skiing. Plus your child would...
Just came back up from the Alps. Was with our 5 yo. We stayed at a Club Med. First time at a Club Med and it was quite of a shock. But overall it was positive.
The main benefit is the ability to drop your child at 8:30am and pick up at 5pm. Great way to really enjoy a skiing holiday with your s/o when your child is still learning skiing. Plus your child would go through two ski lessons, lunch, snack and games during the day.
My question/comment for Ben (and others). Do you plan in the future to get into that segment or do we know other hotel chains/brands that would do similar arrangement. And I am not talking about kids club that can look after your child for 1-2 hours but would take charge of them and look after the transitions.
The other alternative is to find a ski school/childcare that is independent.
I also was inspired by your Airelles Courchevel post... and we have now been back several times in one season :p Over the top, incredible hotel; leagues better than anything in the USA. Looking forward to seeing your review of the Val d'Isere location!
Good to see you at a financial stage where booking any hotel is possible! Perhaps I’ll get there someday, but my sticking point is currently $200/night
I saw a recent estimate of Ben's income; it was quite substantial, and certainly enough to be paying for first class. One can never be sure, and it's none of our business, but I'd say that Ben, Ford, & Miles have a very comfortable life, and why not? The guy gives us content every day, month-in, month-out, and he's built the whole thing up himself.
That's what America is all about. I say enjoy the rewards of hard work (and a sprinkle of good fortune).
LOL he has been “at a financial stage where booking any hotel is possible” for many years.
@Pete
Your comments are cringe worthy and creepy af. And people encourage you. Get help. I think it’s free where you’re from.
But wait.... where's the baby!?
I would also appreciate trip reports to talk about how to navigate traveling with a baby / infant - AND still enjoying the finer things! We have trips booked in business class on BA / AA / JL with a "lap infant" before our son turns 2, so it would be great to get your perspective as a parent to travel with a child.
Why wait for Ben's perspective? He's an expert on many things. Not on travel with a child!
Unless you're guaranteed seats with a bassinet in front (and your baby will fit/be happy in it), "lap infant" = nightmare flight.
If your baby's happy in the bassinet, all good. But otherwise, putting your baby in their own travel chair is the only way to go.
I want to see photos, because the little guy is around eight months now, and that age is one of extreme cuteness. I do understand the desire to protect him from the public eye, though, and have no expectations.
I don't know but I would be willing to bet they left their son behind with someone and they went by themselves. I don't mean to be judgmental but I get the feeling they have no issue doing that. If so, in my opinion, not good. Hopefully, I'm wrong and they took him with them, but I doubt it. I was so fortunate that even as an infant, my parents took me all over the world. If I ever have kids, I plan to do the same.
I'm pretty sure Miles wouldn't remember this trip, and would be happy staying with his grandparents if that's what's happening.
You seem unsure about if you want to have kids. Don't let yourself be guilted out of it, parenting doesn't need to take over your life if you don't want it to!
Ski Niseko. Simply the best. No competition.
Hakuba is also great. From Australia the 9-10 hour flight to Japan and the 2-hour time difference in the northern winter is a lot less gruelling than the trip to Europe or North America.
Niseko is… fine. There is much better skiing and terrain on Hokkaido.
The skiing in Japan, especially in January, is insane. So much fun.
Your review last year of Courchevel/3 valleys convinced us to go this year and it was hands down the best ski trip we've ever done of 30+ mountains all over the world, so thank you!
I am so excited to hear about your experience in Val d'Isere. Yeah the snow is not west/Rockies powder (frankly don't care as we learned how to ski in the east/ice so not spoiled), but the size, infrastructure, above...
Your review last year of Courchevel/3 valleys convinced us to go this year and it was hands down the best ski trip we've ever done of 30+ mountains all over the world, so thank you!
I am so excited to hear about your experience in Val d'Isere. Yeah the snow is not west/Rockies powder (frankly don't care as we learned how to ski in the east/ice so not spoiled), but the size, infrastructure, above and below tree line variety, ease of transportation, FOOD, service, crazy fun Après, lack of epic/Ikon corporate BS makes European skiing so much better. Stayed with Hyatt points SLH Le Strato, which was truly 5 star and I highly recommend if you can find availability.
You should do a June ski trip to Mammoth Mountain, California. They will be open through July this year. You can't get that in the alps.
If it's June or July skiing you're looking for, I can't recommend Argentina and Chile enough. That's their winter. Additionally the exchange rate makes Argentina in particular a great bargain this year.
I have heard great things about Mammoth Mountain though, so throwing no shade there.
Mammoth is great skiing but hardly luxury.
Sounds like a cool trip!
I hear you about the cost and the inclusive nature of the European resorts. Honestly, even though expensive, the Airelles you stayed at last year, while pricey, is actually cheaper and way more inclusive than comparable properties in Aspen and Telluride. Also, lift tickets are, from what I understand, cheaper in Europe.
That said, I still think the actual quality of the skiing is better at Colorado resorts. But maybe that's a personal preference thing?...
I hear you about the cost and the inclusive nature of the European resorts. Honestly, even though expensive, the Airelles you stayed at last year, while pricey, is actually cheaper and way more inclusive than comparable properties in Aspen and Telluride. Also, lift tickets are, from what I understand, cheaper in Europe.
That said, I still think the actual quality of the skiing is better at Colorado resorts. But maybe that's a personal preference thing?
Regardless, looking forward to reading this.
Maybe the license plates have brainwashed me, but it's hard to find a nicer day on the snow for a family, or even just an old guy like me, than Deer Valley.
1:45 by air SFO-SLC, 0:45 no traffic drive from SLC makes it just about the easiest place to get to also.
I hear you. The resorts near SLC are super convenient and great skiing overall. I'm just partial to the places in Colorado, but that's purely personal preference. Deer Valley and lots of the other mountains near SLC Airport are all great options too.
It all depends on what type of skier you are and when you are going. Tons of people go to Europe over "festive" (Christmas/New Years holidays), and that is a big gamble as the snow is hugely hit or miss that time of year. Same can be said for out west, but it's more of a gamble in Europe, especially when you consider the travel time to get there.
The Rockies offer shorter but...
It all depends on what type of skier you are and when you are going. Tons of people go to Europe over "festive" (Christmas/New Years holidays), and that is a big gamble as the snow is hugely hit or miss that time of year. Same can be said for out west, but it's more of a gamble in Europe, especially when you consider the travel time to get there.
The Rockies offer shorter but slightly steeper runs/pistes, whereas the Alps offer runs that go on seemingly forever. However, and where you are dead wrong about the snow and quality of skiing being better in CO and Deer Valley, is going off-piste in Europe. We don't have this kind of access in the US outside of booking an actual Backcountry tour, but that is different. The snow off-piste in the Alps is epic.
The ski-snob in me also thinks Deer Valley is quite boring skiing... But it is a nice mountain and the easy ski-in/out access is tough to beat.
I was shocked to see lift ticket prices in Europe. Places like Aspen and Vail are over $200/day now, and I lived in Crested Butte for a few years which is definitely a tier below in terms of priciness but even there day tickets were approaching $150 when I moved away. Seeing $70 lift tickets at some very well regarded resorts in France and Switzerland definitely question what I was doing there.
European skiing is been great as we are in Boston and it is generally cheaper than going out west. Especially during school vacation week. We also like to fly the nonstop to Munich which puts us a 3.5 hour drive to the Sella Ronda in the Dolomites. One of our favorite hotels is the Adler Spa Dolomite which is a great family hotel with a top notch spa faciliy.