Several months back, I shared how we were planning a trip to Niseko, which is one of Japan’s most popular ski destinations, near Sapporo. At the time, y’all provided some great advice (I’m leaving the comments that were left at the time intact on this post, in case they’re useful for others planning travel — this is an update on that previous post).
Well, we’re shortly going to be embarking on this trip, so I want to provide an update on what we ended up booking, as you can expect some live updates during the trip.
In this post:
We try to go on one ski trip per year
Full disclosure upfront — I’m not a skier. I mean, I tried to ski in Dubai in 2015, thinking it would be easy, but that didn’t end well. Then I tried to learn to ski a few years ago in France, which actually worked out reasonably well. However, I think I might be too old/risk averse to do this consistently, and at this point maybe I should just focus on après skiing.
Nonetheless, Ford and I try to go on one ski trip per year. Ford likes to ski, and you know, happy husband, happy life, or something. Furthermore, I do very much enjoy the culture around skiing. What’s not to love about the beauty of snow, fireplaces, and warm drinks?
While the US objectively has great skiing conditions, we certainly don’t have the amazing culture around skiing that you’ll find in many parts of Europe, from the service, to the food and drinks, to the general atmosphere. France has some incredible ski resorts, and to this day, Airelles Courchevel is probably my favorite hotel I’ve ever stayed at (though Airelles Val d’Isère is amazing as well).
That’s quite a contrast to my last experience at a US ski resort in winter, which was at the St. Regis Deer Valley. Anyway, that’s neither here nor there. This year, we’re not skiing in the United States or Europe. Instead…
This winter we’re skiing in Niseko, Japan!
We’re going to mix things up with our ski trip for this year, and will be traveling to Niseko, Japan. For those not familiar, Niseko is outside of Sapporo, and it seems to be one of Japan’s premier ski destinations. It’s amazing how much growth the area is seeing.
Among major luxury hotel groups, there’s currently the Park Hyatt Niseko and the Ritz-Carlton Reserve Niseko, with several more luxury properties on the way, ranging from a Hoshinoya, to a Rosewood, to a Six Senses. With the direction things are headed, this place will eventually be as concentrated of a luxury hotel market as Kyoto.
So, where are we staying? For a majority of our time there, we decided to book the Park Hyatt Niseko, given that I’ve heard great things about the property, in terms of the setting, dining, etc. (though I know it’s a distance from the center of the village). I am ridiculously excited to check out this hotel, as it’s one of the points hotels that has most been on my radar.
Initially I wasn’t sure if we were going to stay at the Ritz-Carlton Reserve Niseko, but ultimately I decided to add a brief stay there to our itinerary. I’m curious to see how it compares, especially since the Ritz-Carlton Reserve brand participates in Marriott Bonvoy nowadays.
Now, I’ve actually heard mixed reports about the Ritz-Carlton Reserve. I’ve heard some people say that the hotel is really disappointing and shouldn’t be a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, while I’ve heard others say positive things. So I’m curious to check it out for myself, and draw my own conclusions.
We’re also spending a couple of nights in Tokyo
While Niseko is our primary destination, we’re also going to be spending a couple of nights in Tokyo on the way out, both to add a buffer, and because it’s always awesome to visit Tokyo. However, I’ll be making the most of our limited time in terms of hotel reviews.
When I first wrote about our trip several months ago, I was leaning toward booking one of the two EDITION properties, since they’re a good opportunity to redeem Marriott Bonvoy points. At the time, I asked if we should stay at the Tokyo EDITION Ginza or the Tokyo EDITION Toranomon.
While I appreciated the pros and cons shared about each property, in the end, I decided to book each hotel for one night, so that I can report back and share our experience. Since these hotels are of a similar caliber to the Andaz Tokyo, I’m curious how the experience compares.
The airlines I’ll be flying to & from Japan
In a separate post, I wrote about the airlines I’ll be flying this trip. I’m most excited about the return journey, where I’ll finally be flying All Nippon Airways’ A380 first class. It’s the only A380 first class product that I’ve never flown, so I’m looking forward to experiencing the unusual “Flying Honu.”
Since that flight is from Tokyo Narita (NRT) to Honolulu (HNL), I’ll be connecting to the mainland in Hawaiian’s 787 first class, since that’s another product that has been on my list.
As far as the outbound goes, well, I’ll share details on that soon. It’s not an unfamiliar product, but I’m kind of pleasantly surprised by the availability that I found.
Bottom line
Shortly, we’ll be heading to Japan for a ski trip, which I’m very much looking forward to. Up until now, we’ve only done ski trips in North America or Europe, so it’ll be cool to see how the experience compares in Asia. I’m looking forward to checking out the Park Hyatt Niseko, Ritz-Carlton Reserve Niseko, and the two EDITION properties in Tokyo, so stay tuned. I’ll also have some fun flight reviews.
Any thoughts or tips for our Japan trip, beyond what has already been shared?
By always insisting on using points to book hotels, you are really missing out on a true Japan experience.
Consider staying in locally owned Japanese hotels / ryokans instead of mega chains.
Why stay in Tokyo when Yokohama is right there?
Why stay in New York when New Jersey is right there? Why stay in San Francisco when Oakland is right there? Why stay in Los Angeles when Riverside is right there?
Because it might not be very convenient for what you are planning to do.....
With over 3.7 million people, Yokohama is the size of Los Angeles, and it's 20 minutes by frequent trains to Tokyo, or 30 minutes to Haneda. And quite frankly, it's just a nicer city. It isn't like Riverside or Oakland; it's like Los Angeles or San Francisco on it's own. It just happens to be close enough to Tokyo to be considered a suburb.
Seriously, lol. Yokohama is ok, but it cannot compare with any town part of Tokyo conglomeration.
Seriously, I never understand why foreigners always want to go to Tokyo. It's a big, busy, crowded city with little to distinguish it from any other such city.
I'm sorry, but that's way off-base. Tokyo differs from other major cities, especially western ones, due to the way the Japanese handle urban planning to both allow things like cafes, restaurants and small shops to operate out of peoples houses, and allow construction of zakkyo buildings. These are a type of building ubiquitous to major Japanese and some other Asian cities but almost unheard of in the west, which provide a vital niche of retail...
I'm sorry, but that's way off-base. Tokyo differs from other major cities, especially western ones, due to the way the Japanese handle urban planning to both allow things like cafes, restaurants and small shops to operate out of peoples houses, and allow construction of zakkyo buildings. These are a type of building ubiquitous to major Japanese and some other Asian cities but almost unheard of in the west, which provide a vital niche of retail spaces for smaller business that can't afford and can't fill the kinds of massive commercial spaces you typically see in western cities. That plus the sheer density of Tokyo means that all sorts of niche subcultures and the businesses that support them can thrive.
The PH is one of the most beautiful hotels we’ve ever stayed at and the restaurant we tried was excellent. They also offer a shuttle into town, which is super easy.
My big recommendation is to take the train to Niseko from Sapporo — the scenery along the ride in the snow was spectacular, and you can get a cab from the station to the hotel easily. Enjoy!
I echo comments from others - Its pretty bad service for a park hyatt. Elite recognition is garbage and that plus the grand Hyatt deer valley I’m currently at are pushing me into free agency. Good riddance globalist status
Also what war the PH Niseko thinking not putting a hot tub outside. Even the onsen is meh. I actually way preferred the Westin in rusutsu. The ritz reserve property is pretty good. Not sure what people are complaining about.
This has nothing to do with the airlines but I recently stayed at the Ginza Edition (absolutely recommend) and found myself at the Ginza Music Bar. Small intimate vibe, great and creative drinks ( alcoholic and non), and friendly staff. If you enjoy vinyl music and a cool atmosphere, check it out for an hour or two. It'll give Tokyo a "different vibe."
Say hi to Lani for me.
Standing sushi Uogashi 57 at CTS is top notch. No reason to hit the lounge again unless you’re not hungry or short on time. Drop bags at Jal F lounge and then go eat.
Getting to Niseko seams to be a PITA, and sharing any intel would be appreciated.
I just got back from two weeks in Japan including one week in Niseko. I stayed at the Hilton Niseko Village which is a good location with good food/beverages options and great ski in /ski out facilities and setup; the rooms seemed to be designed in the 1980's or early 1990s and not intended to cater to an international crowd (tiny cruise ship like bathrooms). It snowed 12-20 cm or more each day and the...
I just got back from two weeks in Japan including one week in Niseko. I stayed at the Hilton Niseko Village which is a good location with good food/beverages options and great ski in /ski out facilities and setup; the rooms seemed to be designed in the 1980's or early 1990s and not intended to cater to an international crowd (tiny cruise ship like bathrooms). It snowed 12-20 cm or more each day and the famous dry powder lives up to the hype. I rented a car at Sapporo airport from Toyota Rent A Car and was very glad I did as it made getting around between the four different base areas and to restaurants much easier than waiting around for a packed bus. The Park Hyatt is located at the Hanazono base area which is the least crowded of all four but is also somewhat isolated from the others, although its easier to ski between the Hanazono and Hirafu areas from the upper parts of the mountain. The Hanazono base lodges appear to be very new construction and were quite nice.
Just got back from my trip hitting a few Hokkaido resorts. The severe lack of Japanese at Niseko is clearly due to everything being foreigner priced. I'm not the Michelin-star omakase type, which understandable comes at a cost, but all restaurants in town were decisively mediocre (or bad for some dishes) while being priced like you were in London/NYC. The mountain lodges, at base and uphill, were not much better with really overpriced food and...
Just got back from my trip hitting a few Hokkaido resorts. The severe lack of Japanese at Niseko is clearly due to everything being foreigner priced. I'm not the Michelin-star omakase type, which understandable comes at a cost, but all restaurants in town were decisively mediocre (or bad for some dishes) while being priced like you were in London/NYC. The mountain lodges, at base and uphill, were not much better with really overpriced food and mediocre based on reviews. There is only one authentic Japanese lodge on hill, Bo-yo-so, which is above the learners slope chair from Hirafu base, but it gets incredibly busy. Perhaps booking lunch/dinner with on-property restaurants will be better. There seems to be huge effort to astroturf an apres scene, with Don Julio 1942 branded igloos in Hirafu with touts outside and Johnnie Walker pop-up in Hanazono base coming.
I was pretty put off by some of behavior of Australian and Chinese on and off slope. Aussies littering and letting children run wild, Chinese cutting lines or doing things like walking in the middle of the road (sidewalks aren't really cleared well) blocking buses.
More so for Ford, but I'd recommend being off-hill or away from the base just before lunch and especially end of the day. Tons of people trying to over ski/board their level, making unpredictable turns in crowded areas, or riding with insta360s on poles and not really paying attention to their surrounding despite being a beginner. Tons of people taking chairs to black runs despite note being able to ride off a lift properly and then either falling leaf or trying to pizza down unsuccessfully or people with beginner rentals trying to go through side-country gates. Tons of people with LV ski googles or designer backpacks (not snow purposed) as part of outfits. Saw more ski patrol with toboggans than I have anywhere I've been before.
All that said, the slopes are great, especially the side-country gate areas, even with Japan deciding to participate in 'dry January' during my stay. Hopefully the snow is better when you go. I had a good time, but not sure I'd rush back as no point going to Japan to be at what basically felt like a Vail-owned resort in the states.
While in Niseko, I'd highly recommend taking a short day trip to the port town of Otaru. The canal area is lovely, it is walkable, and there are lots of amazing glass art shops and studios (which is excellent for sourcing souvenirs).
Looking forward to reading about this trip!
I've been to Niseko twice, my budget is more hostel than Park Hyatt so I have no advice on the luxury hotels but here would be my general recommendations:
- First and probably most important, rent a car. Hanazono Base is isolated from everything else, sure there are buses and taxis but it'll be easier to have your own car. Take turns being the sober driver for nightlife or use taxis/public transit for that...
I've been to Niseko twice, my budget is more hostel than Park Hyatt so I have no advice on the luxury hotels but here would be my general recommendations:
- First and probably most important, rent a car. Hanazono Base is isolated from everything else, sure there are buses and taxis but it'll be easier to have your own car. Take turns being the sober driver for nightlife or use taxis/public transit for that specific purpose.
-Hirafu/Niseko is very international, with Aussies seeming to outnumber Japanese. If you are looking for authentic Japanese experiences, you may want to branch out to other parts of Hokkaido.
- As far as skiing, if you aren't already getting the Niseko United ticket through Ikon/Mtn Collective, consider the Hanazono/Hirafu only passes for some days and even the hourly passes instead of the full day. It's a long way over to Niseko Village and Annapuri and you may find you don't want to ski that far over. We saved money at Rusutsu by getting the 7 hour pass instead of the full day pass, 7 hours is plenty of time on the slopes.
- I wouldn't say there are any specific must-visit restaurants in the area, but in general dining will be cheaper and more authentic in Kutchan than Hirafu. Many places are reservation-only now so utilize your concierge to make plans.
-As far as non-skiing activities, going to onsens is an absolute must. My favorites are the one at the Annapuri Base and the Makkari Onsen for its Yotei views (car required). Lake Toya is also an excellent day trip with boat tours and a rooftop onsen with excellent lake views in toya kohantei hotel. The Park Hyatt will probably have its own onsen as well. There is a cool natural history museum in Niseko, but bring your Google Translate. If you happen to be there during the Sapporo Snow Festival, that is a must-see as well.
Hey, I just spent five nights in the Niseko area, admittedly in summer. The Ritz Carlton is absolutely worth it, but we also spent a night at a place called Shiguchi (https://shiguchi.com/en) that was one of the great hotel experiences of our lives. It's expensive, but very worth it, and includes both dinner and breakfast.
In terms of other meals, check out Rakuichi Soba. It's a tough reservation to get so plan in advance.
We dont ski. But we wish to visit Niseko next Oct to see the fall colors. We are thinking of the Ritz Carlton. The choice was between the Park Hyatt and the Ritz Carlton but there are mixed reviews on BOTH so my Lifetime Titanium Status wins out in terms of choice. BUT, Ben, please do stay at the RC for a couple of nights and give us your opinion. Having been to Tokyo and...
We dont ski. But we wish to visit Niseko next Oct to see the fall colors. We are thinking of the Ritz Carlton. The choice was between the Park Hyatt and the Ritz Carlton but there are mixed reviews on BOTH so my Lifetime Titanium Status wins out in terms of choice. BUT, Ben, please do stay at the RC for a couple of nights and give us your opinion. Having been to Tokyo and Kyoto a couple of time we wanted to re-visit Tokyo and see a different part of Japan - hence the choice of Niseko.
If it turns out to be not so fun - in winter much less than the autumn - we will skip it and re-visit the Hoshinoya in Arashiyama (Kyoto) our all time favorite.
Your reviews of Tokyo will help as well. Been to the PALACE a couple of times and were thinking of Prince Gallery or the Ritz Carlton this time. Your reviews of where you choose to stay will help us.
Here will be another reason your reviews are biassed due to your preference toward certain hotel brands and airlines...
Why do you stay here? Everything you post is a moan or a complaint. There must be somewhere else on the Interwebs where you can go and whinge? Thanks.
To some extent it depends on the type of brand that you like. As for me I would prefer St. Regis or Ritz over Edition. It also depends on the specific property.
The Park Hyatt Niseko is a better choice than the Ritz Carlton because Hanazono is the better ski area than Niseko Village. I will be back in Hanazono as a ski instructor in the official ski school and as an avid follower of your blog, I would be really keen to show you around Hanazono ski resort. Let me know if you want to book a ski lesson!
We absolutely loved our time at PH niseko, but it is very isolated from Hirafu and basically all restaurants. If you are happy to just dine at the hotel it is great, but you won't get a great feel for the rest of Niseko. You can take a taxi or the free shuttle in to town or even the bus which I believe is included in ski tickets, but it isnt the same as strolling...
We absolutely loved our time at PH niseko, but it is very isolated from Hirafu and basically all restaurants. If you are happy to just dine at the hotel it is great, but you won't get a great feel for the rest of Niseko. You can take a taxi or the free shuttle in to town or even the bus which I believe is included in ski tickets, but it isnt the same as strolling to a dozen restaurants or bars from your hotel.
If you are willing to give it another go, I can't think of a better place to learn skiing as the snow is so fluffy, we have fun just falling/plopping down on the snow. Having said that like many of the north American and European larger resorts it gets very crowded at lower lofts during peak season. Night skiing is available and fun - just remember to bring clear goggles.
Unless it's changed the luxury airport shuttle which has recliners that lean back quite far is free for globalists (but not proactively advertised as such).
Breakfast is amazing - you do have to roam between rooms otherwise you will miss one of the rooms (I believe there was a room for western food, Japanese, and Chinese). A note you may want to confirm for the readers but at least a couple of years ago, breakfast for kids was only included for globalists up to age 13.
Like most Japanese Hyatts, globalist upgrades are quite rare.
"Niseko" has 4 areas, Hanazono, Grand Hirafu, Niseko Village and Annapuri. When most people talk about "Niseko" they mean Grand Hirafu, that's where most of the accommodation, shop and restaurants are. To go between the 4 areas, one will need a car or jump on the shuttle bus, and the ride is about 20 min between each. PH is at Hanazono and is on the snow, so be prepared to eat at the property everyday,...
"Niseko" has 4 areas, Hanazono, Grand Hirafu, Niseko Village and Annapuri. When most people talk about "Niseko" they mean Grand Hirafu, that's where most of the accommodation, shop and restaurants are. To go between the 4 areas, one will need a car or jump on the shuttle bus, and the ride is about 20 min between each. PH is at Hanazono and is on the snow, so be prepared to eat at the property everyday, or have to get a taxi to go into Grand Hirafu. RC is at Niseko Village, again a taxi ride or shuttle into Hirafu. There are a couple of places to buy groceries in Grand Hirafu, nowhere to buy groceries in the other areas.
In terms of skiing, grand hirafu is super crowded, and quite a lot of skiers are beginners, as it is the most accessible. Crowd + Inexperienced skiers can be quite dangerous on the home run down at the end of the day. You can ski between Grand Hirafu and Honozono quite easily, but you can't ski between Grand Hirafu and Niseko village and Annapuri as easily, and there is a chance that if you ski across that you may not be able to ski back. The 4 ski areas are only connected at the top of the mountain, which can become windy etc and the lifts get shut. Be careful getting across on a day that's windy as you may have to shuttle back.
Niseko also does not groom the ski runs anywhere near as much as in the US, in fact a lot of Japanese resorts don't groom much. So be prepared that a good proportion of the ski runs will be "wild" and ungroomed. With the amount of people skiing, any groomed runs get chopped up very quickly after a couple of hours. People don't come to Niseko to ski groomed runs, people come for the powder, that's what it is famous for. If Ford is into powder skiing, I would recommend cat-skiing. It's a bit like heli-skiing but with lower elevation, but LOADS of untouched powder. Forget the resort runs, the powder cat-skiing is where the magic is.
Other thing to note, assuming Ford doesn't have a Ikon/Mountain Collective pass, is Niseko is technically multiple resorts - Annupuri, Niseko Village, Grand Hirafu, Hanazono ("Niseko United"), and Moiwa (independent). If you're at the PH and don't anticipate skiing that much then you can save a few bucks by buying just a Hanazono/Hirafu pass. If at the Ritz you can get just a Niseko Village pass. Assuming the hotels have some discounts.
PH has an...
Other thing to note, assuming Ford doesn't have a Ikon/Mountain Collective pass, is Niseko is technically multiple resorts - Annupuri, Niseko Village, Grand Hirafu, Hanazono ("Niseko United"), and Moiwa (independent). If you're at the PH and don't anticipate skiing that much then you can save a few bucks by buying just a Hanazono/Hirafu pass. If at the Ritz you can get just a Niseko Village pass. Assuming the hotels have some discounts.
PH has an airport shuttle on a 'luxury' bus from CTS. As noted, sounds like reservations for food is required given the volume versus restaurants available unless you go into Kutchan.
The Prince Gallery Tokyo is nice but probably more catered for business. Ginza Edition is a good location, no clue how the hotel is.
Would love to see more Kyoto reviews from you (so many great options there) or staying at a non-points onsen hotel in Hakone
Park Hyatt is a lovely hotel in the Hanazono area. The Ritz Carlton is very nice as well in the Niseko Village/Higashiyama area. They're both isolated in terms of a Village atmosphere. The place to be is Hirafu. That's where all the restaurants shops and bars are located. For Tokyo, I would stay in Ginza.
Zaborin is the place to stay near Niseko.
The EDITION Toranomon has the vibe of an expensive W hotel
Ben please please *please* review F on NH's A380. I don't know how award availability looks like, but you can often find sub $4000 rt fares ex NRT, which for ca. 15h on NH F seems like a solid deal.
We stayed at the Hilton Niseko, which has a gondola attached to the hotel along with ski butlers and fantastic service. The breakfasts were incredible: Several long tables full of food you would expect at dinner. The skiing is a delight. Enjoy!
for tokyo, i'd love to see a review of takanawa hanakohro which is across from the prince sakura tower hotel. it looks really beautiful, like a luxury ryokan, and you get to bounce around all the lounges in the several hotels within the prince "complex"... https://www.princehotels.com/hanakohro/
Not able to advice on Niseko as I am not a skier as well, but for Tokyo, the Edition Ginza is in a better location, for sure! It’s smack in the middle of Ginza and you get alot of bars, f&b and shopping! The Edition Toranomon Hills is in a mostly office complex area - though it is near the new Azabudai Hills where Aman’s new Janu is located, and they have alot of f&b options at Janu, so if you want, you can consider the Janu as well!
Maybe try the Bvlgari Hotel in Tokyo?
The Park Hyatt is the best luxury hotel in Niseko, probably until the Aman opens in a few years. The Hilton is a poor choice. In Tokyo, I found the Edition Toranomon to be tacky with mediocre service. This may be off topic for this forum but the Japanese grand dames like the Okura and the Palace are the best if you want Japanese hospitality.
Why not step away from the big brands and chains (I get the appeal of using points and miles for stays) and try the Hoshinoya Tokyo? It’s truly one of a kind, bringing the luxury of Hoshinoya to the heart of the city. They’ve created an oasis of serenity and joy while still being deeply connected to the neighbourhood and the wider Tokyo. If you’re curious or need more insights, feel free to reach out—I lived in Tokyo for 4 years and know the city well!
I second this, I've never stayed at a Hoshinoya, I've been at independent luxury ryokans though. I'd love to see how Hoshinoya stacks up.
If you want real Japanese experience, stay at a regular 3* hotel in Tokyo. They are actually great, as Japan has different standards of cleanliness and quality than the west (meaning better).
It will also be more useful for majority of us too, your audience. I doubt that majority of readers would be willing to spend on luxurious hotels, but I may be wrong.
Some regular hotel brands in Japan are: APA, Toyoko Inn, Smile hotel.
Yes would love a review of a APA hotel!
Pick the APA Hotel Shibuya Dogenzakaue. Right next to the love hotel area!
I’ve never stayed in an APA that doesn’t stink of the ground in tabbaco of the thousands of chain smokers that have stayed through the ages. Tokyu stay is my mid price go to because they’ve always been non-smoking.
I've found Excel's to be pretty good for Japanese chain options
We stayed at the Park Hyatt Niseko during Covid (we were living in Tokyo), and we were there in September, but it is a lovely hotel, especially as we had a suite upgrade. What was odd was most of the guests were Japanese due to Covid, but most of the staff were foreign. It isn’t a Japanese vibe like you find at the Park Hyatt Kyoto, but the service is much better than US hotels....
We stayed at the Park Hyatt Niseko during Covid (we were living in Tokyo), and we were there in September, but it is a lovely hotel, especially as we had a suite upgrade. What was odd was most of the guests were Japanese due to Covid, but most of the staff were foreign. It isn’t a Japanese vibe like you find at the Park Hyatt Kyoto, but the service is much better than US hotels. Molière Montangue is a branch of the Michelin starred Sapporo namesake and is well worth a visit. There were lots of other restaurants but many were closed while we were there. There are condos, mainly owned by Chinese, on the property, but I believe they are rented out. We toured a couple with the manager, who was about to move to the Park Hyatt Auckland at the time. Have a great trip!
I’ve seen more and more non-Japanese staff. Was true at the Ritz Nikko and the 4S in Tokyo.
I'd recommend not staying in a hotel but rather a condo rental or Airbnb of some kind in Hiarfu village. There are hotels there of course, but none of th bougie ones. As such it's it's the closest to the "ski town culture" that you mentioned about Europe. Hiarfu is walkable, and home to many more English speaking people than the other two main villages of Nisekoi United ski area.
The hotel experience in...
I'd recommend not staying in a hotel but rather a condo rental or Airbnb of some kind in Hiarfu village. There are hotels there of course, but none of th bougie ones. As such it's it's the closest to the "ski town culture" that you mentioned about Europe. Hiarfu is walkable, and home to many more English speaking people than the other two main villages of Nisekoi United ski area.
The hotel experience in the other villages makes for a less social environment than Hiarfu for apre ski and dinner spots, from cheap western style pubs to intimate whisky and sake bars, family dining all the way up to fine dining.
I've skied Niseko six times and Hiarfu area is by far the most fun place for people that want to do things other than ski, the onsen experience is much better there also because the ones in Hiarfu, cater to a more international crowd and as such don't have many of the same restrictions as onsens elsewhere in Japan (such as a ban on tattoos, mixed gender pools for bathers that prefer not to bathe in the nude, etc).
It's really a choose your own adventure experience more than the catered/curated and way more expensive hotel experience.
If you do not plan to drive, why not consider Gala Yuzawa /Echigo Yuzawa for skiing? The skiiing facilities are great. Both places are a short shinkansen from central Tokyo.
The snow quality is much better in Hokkaido than in the Japan Alps. Plus Echigo Yuzawa is super crowded due to its proximity to Tokyo. Overall skiing is way better in Hokkaido.
The snow quality is much better in Hokkaido than in the Japan Alps. Plus Echigo Yuzawa is super crowded due to its proximity to Tokyo. Overall skiing is way better in Hokkaido.
Make sure to eat the Japanese style curry on the mountain, its sensational!
Also it would be fun to see you review an APA in Tokyo (just don’t dig into the owners politics!)
Hokkaido skiing is great. Preferred it to the Alps. But Niseko and area can get very expensive. Crowd is yes Australians plus Singapore/Hong Kong people as well. Also, consider stopping in Sapporo if you have the time... I enjoyed it, especially being not quite as overwhelmingly big as Tokyo
Niseko is quickly becoming the Vail of Japan. The skiing is really good but the crowds are becoming horrendous. It's completely overrun by drunk Aussies and oblivious Chinese. Park Hyatt is a bit secluded on the far end of the resort and going into town is a 15 minute shuttle or cab ride. Lots of great restaurants on property but if you want to venture out, reservations are a must, maybe as much as a week in advance.
Dont
i've been going since mid 90’s and i refuse to go any more
it’s become the most annoying Japanese tourist trap with outrageous prices, subpar services from transportation to on mountain facilities, etc
even the snow isnt at all the same as 10-15 years ago but gets slushy from January already
In Niseko the most truthful money thirsty and ruthless nature of certain Japanese shows up with all its truest colors
I forgot to comment on Tokyo hotels.
We are looking forward to the review of the Bulgari Hotel.
Both Edition hotels are great, the Ginza one much smaller and more intimate, probably more what an Edition should be. The Punch Room at Edition Ginza is really a recommendation, whether you stay there or not.
Other great new options in Tokyo, The Four Seasons Otemachi, Tokyo Station Hotel (not new, but reasonably newly renovated), Hoshinoya, Janu...
I forgot to comment on Tokyo hotels.
We are looking forward to the review of the Bulgari Hotel.
Both Edition hotels are great, the Ginza one much smaller and more intimate, probably more what an Edition should be. The Punch Room at Edition Ginza is really a recommendation, whether you stay there or not.
Other great new options in Tokyo, The Four Seasons Otemachi, Tokyo Station Hotel (not new, but reasonably newly renovated), Hoshinoya, Janu (the new brand from Aman).
Both the Park Hyatt and Ritz-Carlton Reserve are great, the skin-out ski-in option is far better at the RC. The PH is to some extent (to quote Ben) a massive resort factory, where the RC is much more personal. The food options are more varied at the PH though.
There are many great food options around Niseko, but you will need your rental car to get around to them (free valet parking at RC, only...
Both the Park Hyatt and Ritz-Carlton Reserve are great, the skin-out ski-in option is far better at the RC. The PH is to some extent (to quote Ben) a massive resort factory, where the RC is much more personal. The food options are more varied at the PH though.
There are many great food options around Niseko, but you will need your rental car to get around to them (free valet parking at RC, only self parking at PH)
The public onsen at the RC is much better, with an outdoor bath, where you can sit and look at the snow. There are no rooms with private onsen at RC, but if you can swing one of the suites in the residence tower at PH you can get a lovely balcony onsen. We have enjoyed having a private onsen at PH a lot.
Niseko is "outside of Sapporo" the same way that Sacramento is outside of San Francisco. It is a 2.5 to 3 hour drive.
For whisky fans, the Nikka Yoichi distillery is not too far from Niseko, and on a slightly longer from Shinchitose Airport it is enroute from the airport to Niseko or vice versa.
This is probably one of the worse park hyatt in terms of service. The team is made up of fewer than 20% Japanese and the GM came from Beijing PH. Breakfast is a mess and service is very inconsistent across. I went both summer and winter, winter is worse but summer is not any better
Agree with this comment. We stayed over New Years. It felt like a non Japanese luxury factory at best. Hardware is beautiful and the rooms are generous sized. But the service was totally missing.
I feel compelled to add my experience as well. I got coffee/snacks at the cafe in the summer at the PH Niseko, and we were seated nearby a Japanese couple also getting drinks. Their server didn't speak essentially any Japanese, and didn't go to get someone else to take their order. I was completely shocked, they're in Japan at a high-end hotel, and no one was able to speak to them in Japanese... I've never seen anything like that.
What a boring way to see Japan.
It's best to break your stay in Niseko with PH and RCR. Although my preference leaned towards the former. Can't beat the convenience of ski-in/out facility at PH. Also definitely book the Park Suite Deluxe, facing the glorious Mt. Yotei with relaxing in-room onsen. RCR on the other hand offers a more private, personalised experience, with a similarly gorgeous winter view from the room.
As for the stay in Tokyo, try the newly opened Janu or Bulgari.
Looking forward to this trip review as Nisekoi has long been on my travel list!
Niseko is awesome. The base was 27' when I went snowboarding there. Snow above A frame houses. Locals carry umbrellas as it snows basically constantly. Bar Gyu is awesome and absolutely worth hitting. Same for the egg salad at Lawson's.
The best snow I’ve ever skied on was in Hokkaido. Getting on that snow requires a guide because they will take you in the side country. We did a 10 day ski trip through Black Diamond Tours (lodging wasn’t amazing but the skiing and guides were). I believe they also do some private guiding. I am contemplating going back this winter for a few days and will only find it worthwhile with a guide.
Niseko is super crowded. Mainly Aussies, China and south east Asian tourist. I've been staying at PH for the past 3 seasons. It is a huge property and ample restaurants and then food is good by hotel standards. However don't expect the high standards of service of a typical PH because the resort is super crowded during peak and service is generally lacking . Slopes and gondolas can get crowded during the day and now...
Niseko is super crowded. Mainly Aussies, China and south east Asian tourist. I've been staying at PH for the past 3 seasons. It is a huge property and ample restaurants and then food is good by hotel standards. However don't expect the high standards of service of a typical PH because the resort is super crowded during peak and service is generally lacking . Slopes and gondolas can get crowded during the day and now with a new Nikko hotel opening up, I would expect longer queues for everything.
I've not stayed at Ritz but I know for certain that food options are lacking unless you choose to go out.
As for Tokyo, I've stayed at all 3 mentioned. Andaz and both editions . Location wise, Ginza edition wins. Smack in the heart of Ginza. It's a small property hence very boutique and personalised service. Toranomon is more of a business district. Rooms are bigger at Edition toranomon Vs Ginza ( as should be expected ) but if it is a short stay Ginza wins. View wise toranomon! Andaz toranomon has big hotel vibes. Rooms are slightly smaller than edition toranomon.
Hope the above helps.
Don’t forget to go to the fridge door bar (Bar Gyu) for a drink! Especially on a night it’s snowing. And try night skiing under the lights in the Hokkaido snow. Kamimura for a special meal (Michelin star and worth it). Bang Bang a fun spot in town for Yakitori.
We really enjoyed the EDITION at Toranomon quite a bit and I’d say I enjoyed it as much as the Andaz, but for different reasons. Would be curious what you think
I snowboarded a lot in Japan years ago. Two things to note:
1) Get good travel insurance. If you wipe out and break something, god forbid, you may need to go to a larger city (or even another country) for care. I met a couple US dudes in Shanghai once who were semi-pro skiers who broke legs on Japanese slopes and were recouping after receiving care at private hospitals there. Their insurance carriers sent...
I snowboarded a lot in Japan years ago. Two things to note:
1) Get good travel insurance. If you wipe out and break something, god forbid, you may need to go to a larger city (or even another country) for care. I met a couple US dudes in Shanghai once who were semi-pro skiers who broke legs on Japanese slopes and were recouping after receiving care at private hospitals there. Their insurance carriers sent them there.
2) Aussie teens snowboarding on holiday are to be avoided. The worst. Not just drunk, all the time but super rude, too. They engage people unprovoked and I even saw them shouting at local staff. Unbelievable.
Do treat yourselves to an onsen experience while in Niseko as well: https://www.sakuramobile.jp/onsen/ar/onsen-in-niseko/#more-46847
We did a family ski trip to Niseko last year while we were living in Japan. It was the best ski trip we have had. A few things - as with most things in Japan, reservations are a must. This is especially true for Niseko where there are not a ton of restaurant options and they are usually small. We had a great dinner at The Barn by Odin (fun building and great food). Another...
We did a family ski trip to Niseko last year while we were living in Japan. It was the best ski trip we have had. A few things - as with most things in Japan, reservations are a must. This is especially true for Niseko where there are not a ton of restaurant options and they are usually small. We had a great dinner at The Barn by Odin (fun building and great food). Another consideration is transportation from CTS to Niseko. We landed later at CTS and caught the last bus (again, a reservation is a good idea). Our friends' flight landed late so they didn't make the bus and had to take a few trains and then arrived late at the train station. Getting a taxi in Niseko late was difficult. We loved Niseko and will definitely be returning. Also getting Niseko United lift tickets online was easy and saved a bit of time on our first ski day. Have fun!
From what I've gathered for my trip the crowd is heavily Aussie/Kiwi, a notable amount of other Asia (mostly Chinese) with Japanese a distant third. It won't be authentically Japanese in vibe. It makes sense since Niseko and Rusutsu are on the main ski passes and larger resorts by Japan's standards, so if you're coming from abroad you'd choose somewhere you won't get bored of in a couple days. Locals have a lot more options...
From what I've gathered for my trip the crowd is heavily Aussie/Kiwi, a notable amount of other Asia (mostly Chinese) with Japanese a distant third. It won't be authentically Japanese in vibe. It makes sense since Niseko and Rusutsu are on the main ski passes and larger resorts by Japan's standards, so if you're coming from abroad you'd choose somewhere you won't get bored of in a couple days. Locals have a lot more options that are close by which they could ski for a day or two and for much cheaper (Highlands or Kokusai if in Sapporo). Places I've been in Nagano (not Hakuba) were more majority Japanese, but domestic travelers are a smaller market so still a lot of gaijin.
It'll be interesting how much they'll accelerate upgrading the infrastructure since it sounds like the town and lifts struggle for capacity at the moment. The influx of new development is going to make it harder to handle and staff.
Lift infrastructure isn't like US or European, but Japanese resorts are just run so professionally. Lift operators clearing snow, maintaining the run-in/ramps diligently, and people are way more respectful of the lift lines. Generally little to no apres-ski, especially at local hills, but more so onsen and R&R vibes.
This comment is 100% accurate, and very good advice.
Would love to see a review of the Conrad hotel in Tokyo.
Stayed there Feb 2025. It's a beautiful glass tower with good service and great views. Large, well appointed rooms. You will have to take transportation to get to most food / shopping / tourist areas, as this hotel is in the middle of an office park. There is a subway station ~5 min walk away.
Go via Hawaii to review the ANA sea turtle A380!!
I've been screaming for months! While he's at it, why not review AirCalin and Hawaiian's 787?!
The mountains of Hokkaido get some of the most snowfall of anyplace on earth, thanks to "ocean effect" snow. Cold Siberian air crosses the Sea of Japan, picks up moisture and the orographic lift provided by Japan's mountains result in multi-day dumps of snow. This occurs on the west side of Japan as far south as Nagano - but Hokkaido is so far north that it's colder there resulting in more snow, more frequent snow...
The mountains of Hokkaido get some of the most snowfall of anyplace on earth, thanks to "ocean effect" snow. Cold Siberian air crosses the Sea of Japan, picks up moisture and the orographic lift provided by Japan's mountains result in multi-day dumps of snow. This occurs on the west side of Japan as far south as Nagano - but Hokkaido is so far north that it's colder there resulting in more snow, more frequent snow and not-as-wet snow.
In theory it should provide a fantastic venue for skiing.
I believe that Hokuriku region (Niigata, Toyama, Ishikawa and Fukui) gets more snow during the winter, since there's more moisture there than in Hokkaido. Skiing was introduced there for the first time in Japan.
But still, Hokkaido is more popular outside during winter, for both those inside and outside Japan, so there shouldn't be problems with that...
Japanese alps get bigger dumps, but can be wetter due to the few degrees higher temp, and can have gaps a week plus dry spells. Hokkaido is more consistent.
I lucked out last time in Nagano and got a foot a day, which was a solid amount to not have any avy issues and keep the chairs spinning. Thing I worry with trips planned way ahead is the huge dumps where they won't spin the chairs or the week+ long dry spells.
Could you please stay at The Okura Tokyo. I’m curious to find out more about it but can’t find many good reviews.
How about check out the new Hyatt House Shibuya?
APA Hotel Shibuya Dogenzakaue!
The Prince Gallery Kioicho (Luxury Collection) is a really great hotel.
Will have a stay there this December. Any tips?
I'm so excited for this trip review! I'm planning a ski trip to Japan in 2026.
Prince Gallery Tokyo via Marriott Bonvoy!
What dates did you book PH Niseko/when did you book it? I am scoping out a ski trip for 2026 but based on the FT and reddit threads I have read, PH Niseko doesn't adhere to the typical Hyatt 13 month release dates for peak ski season. I am trying to figure out their release calendar.
Stayed one night at Ritz Carlton Reserve Higashiayama Niseko this summer. Loved the property. It's small and they pay attention to details. Would love to go back there in the winter. Highly recommended. Was deciding between Ritz and Park Hyatt Niseko, based on online reviews - decided to go with Ritz instead and we were very happy with the choice.
Unless you have time constraints and only have a weekend or so to ski, nobody should ski in the US. As you described, US skiing misses all the great things you get in Europe starting with the culture and atmosphere. But what US skiing really misses is the cost. It is absolutely outrageous what you have to pay to ski in the US, not only in terms of lift tickets but flights, hotels, restaurants, etc......
Unless you have time constraints and only have a weekend or so to ski, nobody should ski in the US. As you described, US skiing misses all the great things you get in Europe starting with the culture and atmosphere. But what US skiing really misses is the cost. It is absolutely outrageous what you have to pay to ski in the US, not only in terms of lift tickets but flights, hotels, restaurants, etc... If one have time, it is so much cheaper to just fly to Europe and chose among dozens of amazing destinations for a fraction of the cost of skiing in the US. I heard great things about skiing in Japan so can't wait for your review.
Everything except the skiing- which is better in Colorado Utah and Wyoming than anywhere I've been in Europe- and for many of us, that's sort of the point.
You are correct if you want high speed ski but since I am not a pro skier I would choose skiing in Europe 10 out of 10 times over skiing in the US. Skiing in Europe is a lifestyle while in the US is about status and showing off.
Skiing in the US can be a lot cheaper if you stick to locally owned/independent hills. Near every major corporate-owned ski resort in the US are independent cheaper hills where you can learn before you move to resorts known for their difficult terrain. To claim skiing in the US is only about status and showing off is incorrect
The anti-US bias from people here is crazy—and I'm probably the least patriotic person in my circle.
I only can speak to snowboarding but tell me another country where you can leave your kids on well-maintained, safe slopes at luxe resorts and then ATV or drive to off-piste areas where you can go nuts, build your own ramps and moguls and all that, have a blast and maybe do mushrooms while you're at it....
The anti-US bias from people here is crazy—and I'm probably the least patriotic person in my circle.
I only can speak to snowboarding but tell me another country where you can leave your kids on well-maintained, safe slopes at luxe resorts and then ATV or drive to off-piste areas where you can go nuts, build your own ramps and moguls and all that, have a blast and maybe do mushrooms while you're at it. In the middle of freaking nowhere. But yeah, if you wanna do fries and pizza on mid slopes with a bunch of Belgians, go to Europe.
Not that I've done any of the above, of course. Just what I've heard.
The Park Hyatt has had major issues with their concierge service last season. It was inexcusable for a property that charges the rates it does during this time period. I would hope they have this corrected for the upcoming season.
oh man skiing in Japan is on the bucket list. If it's dumping snow when you're there it won't hurt when you fall
If you’re going to be there in early February you really need to plan a day or two at the Sapporo Snow Festival between February 4-11 in the heart of Sapporo. It’s a wonderful side trip for those of us who are wise enough to not hop on a pair of skis to go screaming down a mountain.
Definitely second the Sapporo Snow Festival.
I went to the Park Hyatt Niseko and the Ritz Reserve property in Niseko this year. Honestly the ritz is a better property by location and service. What I don’t get about the park hyatt is why they don’t have a single outdoor hot tub, it just doesn’t make sense to me - their on site onset is nice, but nothing particularly special. Food is incredible though, just be aware you’re kind of trapped in...
I went to the Park Hyatt Niseko and the Ritz Reserve property in Niseko this year. Honestly the ritz is a better property by location and service. What I don’t get about the park hyatt is why they don’t have a single outdoor hot tub, it just doesn’t make sense to me - their on site onset is nice, but nothing particularly special. Food is incredible though, just be aware you’re kind of trapped in Hanazono and will be eating on property likely (if you do leave don’t miss the yakitori and the bar with the fridge door whose name i can’t remember in town)
Also hit the two edition properties in Tokyo in Feb over the t swift concert - the ginza one is much more intimate, but I preferred the torranomon. I might also suggest you take a look at the Mesm. It was just so fun and playful and refreshing as a take on modern japanese hospitality.
We were at Niseko this past Summer and stayed at the Hilton. While it was an older hotel, the best feature for skiers is that the ski lift is right infront of the Lobby, no shuttles required. Plus it has a huge indoor/outdoor onsen, which would make for great relaxing after a day on the slopes.
it's crowded with mainlanders - ppl from china. also you should go stay in a regular japanese hotel in a themed 'hello kitty' room, a 'lavender' room, or a 'black charcoal' room.
It won't be as fancy, but the new Unbound Collection Hyatt that opened up, Hotel Toranomon Hills hasn't had a lot of reviews yet.
Why not try an onsen? And I'm not sure if you're a train buff, but how about a shinkansen ride?
The Park Hyatt in Niseko is amazing. I highly highly suggest you spend 1-2 nights at Zaborin. It is 5 mins away from the Park Hyatt and is absolutely amazing. Sitting in your private onsen on the patio at Zaborin during the winter is the most peaceful place in the entire world.