First Impressions Of Tajikistan: Four Fights In 10 Minutes?!?

We just wrapped up several days in Uzbekistan and are now in Tajikistan. Uzbekistan was fascinating. What stood out to me most was how friendly the people were, and how safe it felt. Uzbekistan is apparently one of the safest countries in the world, and I really felt that.

The flight from Tashkent, Uzbekistan, to Dushanbe, Tajikistan, covered a distance of under 200 miles. Now, I realize just because places are geographically close to one another doesn’t mean they’re culturally similar, though I don’t think I’ve ever witnessed anything quite like our arrival in Dushanbe. At the airport we witnessed four “fights” over the course of about 10 minutes.

Don’t worry, no one got knocked out, but rather it seemed more like an attempted display of hyper-masculinity. And I’m not gonna lie, we found it sort of hilarious.

In the immigration hall there were two airport employees collecting luggage carts. One shoved the other, and then they got in each other’s faces. At first I thought they were just friends joking around, but it quickly became apparent that they weren’t.

Then there was a customs check where you had to have your bags scanned to exit the arrivals hall. One of the immigration officers got in the face of one of the other airport employees. Their faces must have been an inch apart and they kept shoving one another. Another immigration officer had to come to break them up. But they kept going. Then someone else showed up.

They did this thing where they’d get right in each other’s faces, then walk away for a second and circle around, before returning again and doing the same thing over again. This lasted for several minutes.

Then in the arrivals hall we had several people approach us offering a taxi ride. We ended up going with one guy, but another guy followed along, and he and the driver we chose started fighting over who would get the fare. There was shoving, there was standing inches apart trying to intimidate one another, etc.

And then as we drove off we saw two people in the parking lot doing the same.

I’m not sure if we’ve just had really bad luck, or if Tajikistan is just the most hyper-masculine place on earth? I think that’s really the only way I can describe it. I got the sense that the people engaged in these fights weren’t actually going to throw punches, but there was shoving, intimidation, screaming, arm-flailing.

In all my travels I’ve never seen anything quite like this before. Now I’m excited to sit in a coffeeshop somewhere in the city and see if this is a constant thing.

For those who have been to Tajikistan, did we just have really bad (or good?) luck, or is this a “thing” here?

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Lara Guest

Having been there recently too, no I did not witness these kinds of fights but my colleague did get shaken down for a bribe at the airport when we were leaving!! And the previous time he went no one was manning the security screening equipment at the airport, so everyone was just walking freely into the airport departure area. He said it was like they all just got up and walked away like they were getting coffee, no big deal. It is a different world but I am glad I saw it!

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Nate New Member

Hey Lucky! I just returned from spending two months in Dushanbe studying the Tajiki language, and I can definitely say that as amazing as the people are in Tajikistan, violence and hyper-masculinity is SUCH a big deal. Whenever I'd tell my host family about a problem I had with someone (even if the problematic person was also an American), all four of my host brothers would offer to beat the hell out of whoever offended me! Man I love that country though, it's such a beautiful and exciting place.

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The Value Traveler Guest

Dont forget to try uzbeki bread and pulau....theyre famous for it. Even the Afghans will admit that heheh

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Greg Dunning Guest

Tajikistan has a horrible history. As you state there are many different cultures. If you move out of Dushanbe you realise how distinct these are. Many have different dielects and will not speak Tajik at all. This behaviour is often caused through these communities coming to blow.

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Tocqueville Guest

Let us know if you see any unique Pasthun Tajik traditions http://www.independent.co.uk/voices/comment/an-afghan-tragedy-the-pashtun-practice-of-having-sex-with-young-boys-8911529.html

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