Review: Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle, Thailand (How Fun!)

During my two-part birthday trip to the Golden Triangle, we spent four nights at the 16-key Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle, located near Chiang Rai, Thailand. This is not your typical Four Seasons property, as you’d expect, given its remote location and tented accommodations.

There’s a lot I love about this property — the setting is unique, service was phenomenal, the food and drinks were great (and included with the stay), the outdoor spa is one-of-a-kind, and it’s really nice to be able to get so close to elephants in a way that I’d consider to be pretty ethical (when so much elephant tourism is done in questionable ways).

I have to be honest, though — I think this property has some room for improvement as well. Part of the issue is that the hotel opened back in 2006, so it’s 20 years old at this point, and hasn’t undergone any meaningful redevelopment during that time. So while the property is very well maintained in light of that, guest expectations from luxury brands have evolved over the past couple of decades.

The hotel could really use a gym (something that is being developed), it would be nice if there were at least one communal indoor space, and I think the tents as such could be designed in a way where they’re a bit more comfortable.

Ultimately I absolutely recommend this property, as we had a magical time, but I also think you need to come in with the right expectations.

Four Seasons Golden Triangle rates & inclusions

The Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle is among the more expensive properties in the luxury hotel group’s portfolio. Rates are typically around $3,000 per night, depending on the season — sometimes it’s a little cheaper, and sometimes it’s a bit more expensive.

Generally speaking, November through February is considered peak season, with the coolest and driest weather. Then March through May is the hottest season, while June through October is the rainiest season. We were visiting in April, and I can confirm that it was hot. 😉

Obviously rates at the Four Seasons Golden Triangle are high, though they also include lots of things. You’ll want to consult the details during the booking process, but generally they include:

• Roundtrip transfers from Chiang Rai International Airport (CEI)
• Meals and beverages, including house wines and spirits; so you’ll only pay extra for premium liquor, or for a couple of signature dining experiences
• A 90-minute spa treatment for two guests per stay
• A selection of complimentary experiences, including the My Elephant & I experience, as well as the Wang Lao Hike or Countryside Bicycle Tour; there are also a variety of experiences that come at an extra cost

But anyway, you could easily come here and not spend a dime beyond your rate, so at least a lot is included.

As a reminder, generally the best way to book any Four Seasons hotel is through a travel advisor affiliated with the Four Seasons Preferred Partner program. When booking through Preferred Partner you pay the same rate you’ll find directly on Four Seasons’ website, but you’ll receive extra perks, including the following:

• A room upgrade, subject to availability
• Complimentary daily breakfast (though that’s included here anyway)
• A hotel credit to use during your stay

Four Seasons Preferred Partner is generally combinable with promotions being offered directly through Four Seasons, including advance purchase rates, free night offers, and more. Ford and his team are happy to help with these requests, and can be reached at [email protected].

Now, how did we book? Due to the volume that Ford and his team book with Four Seasons, he had received a few vouchers for stays of a few nights each at Four Seasons properties of his choosing. So he used one of those for our Four Seasons Bangkok stay earlier on the trip, and then he also used one for a stay here.

All opinions expressed are my own, and as I think you’ll see, I make a point of being objective, and sharing both the positives and negatives.

Four Seasons Golden Triangle location & transportation

For those not familiar, the Golden Triangle is the unique tri-point border region, where Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar meet, right on the Mekong River. The “triangle” part of the name is obvious, while the “golden” refers to its historical status as the world’s most prominent region for the illicit opium trade, as the crop was literally worth its weight in gold.

The city closest to this is Chiang Rai, as the area is known for its beautiful nature, along with lots of temples and other small communities.

The easiest way to reach the Four Seasons Golden Triangle is to fly into Chiang Rai Airport, so that’s what we did, as we arrived on Thai Airways. The hotel really makes the transfers seamless, given that they’re included with stays.

So we were met in the arrivals area of Chiang Rai Airport by a representative from the Four Seasons, who drove us in the direction of the hotel. The drive took around 45 minutes.

However, we didn’t end up at the hotel, but instead, ended up at a dock, where we boarded a Four Seasons branded long-tail boat, which would allow us to complete our journey. Talk about a fun way to get to the hotel.

In reality, this is sort of a cute gimmick, in the sense that there is a road leading to the hotel, but this is of course a much more fun way to get there. The fact that the luggage is still transported by car makes the transportation swap super seamless. It’s only a roughly 10-minute boat ride to get to the hotel. I’m so happy we took it, because we saw something along the way that captivated me, and visiting it became my obsession for the rest of the trip — more on that in a separate post.

Upon arrival at the camp, there was a very cute welcome ceremony, followed by some welcome drinks and cold towels.

These were served in one of the outdoor seating areas near the main restaurant, with panoramic views of the region, which really gives you a sense of how remote of a location you’re in. You almost feel like you’re on safari… I guess in a way, you are.

We were also immediately greeted by Ralph, the front office manager, as well as Paweena, the camp manager. The staff here are just incredibly kind and professional across the board, but more on that later.

Four Seasons Golden Triangle property layout

The Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle is set on over 300 hillside acres, on the banks of the Ruak River (close to where it converges with the Mekong River). Suffice it to say that the property is absolutely sprawling, especially when you consider how few tents there are.

In the central part of the camp you’ll find the reception area, which is basically just an open air space that’s typically attended.

When it comes to getting around the property, you have two choices. There’s one road that connects the various parts of the resort, and the camp has a ridiculously cool fleet of vintage Land Rovers that can drive you around 24/7 (and at night, it’s recommended to get around this way).

Now, you can also walk along these roads, and one cool thing is how there are constant markers about how far you are from the border with Myanmar. In some cases you’re just a matter of meters away.

On these roads, you also have a chance of seeing some non-Land Rover traffic. 😉

The other practical way to get around is that there’s an elevated walkway that connects all parts of the camp (including all the tents), so it’s the best option if you’re walking. Of course keep in mind you are in nature, so while you hopefully won’t see any Burmese pythons, don’t be surprised if you see some animals.

Due to the hilly nature of the property, taking the path also involves walking across a very fun 80-meter suspension bridge, which you’ll have to cross to get between most tents and the main restaurant.

Across the board, the greenery is just gorgeous…

Four Seasons Golden Triangle tented camp

As mentioned above, the Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle has a total of 16 accommodations — 15 of those are identical tents, and then there’s the Explorer’s Lodge, essentially a two bedroom lodge.

The tents are spread out across the property, and are in three categories — there’s the Bamboo Tent (primarily with jungle views), the Mekong Tent (overlooking the the Ruak River), and the Golden Triangle Tent (with the most panoramic views). Essentially the further from reception you get, the better the views, as the tents further away are the highest up.

We were assigned tent 14, a Golden Triangle Tent, featuring among the most panoramic views. Beyond the views, the tents are identical, and cover 581 square feet (54 square meters).

The accommodations have a great sense of place, and you definitely feel like you’re “glamping.” The tent is quite spacious, with a straightforward layout.

One side of the room has a comfortable signature Four Seasons bed, with netting around it. Behind that is a desk with a chair (which also had a lovely, local welcome amenity), and then to the side of that is the minibar area.

The minibar had a Nespresso coffee machine, and a variety of complimentary drinks and snacks. Since the property is mostly all-inclusive, you can also ask them to bring basically anything to your room, so if you want a cocktail or a bottle of wine, they’re happy to offer that as well.

There are then two chairs that are super deep, which sort of separate the bedroom area from the bathroom.

The bathroom is huge, with double sinks, a soaking tub in the middle of the room, and then a closet space.

The closet space has traditional outfits you can wear when with the elephants, along with reusable water bottles.

The bathroom and shower situation was interesting. The bathroom was quite literally an “outhouse,” in the sense that you had to open two zippers to get there, and it wasn’t air conditioned (though at least it was a proper toilet with good plumbing).

Meanwhile the shower was entirely outdoors, and even had some amazing views, with toiletries in reusable containers.

The room also had an outdoor terrace space, which stretched the length of the tent. This space had a daybed, two chairs, and a massive bathtub of sorts.

The views from here are very cool, especially when you consider that you’re looking out over three separate countries!

Now, I’d like to address a few more points. First of all, Wi-Fi throughout the property worked quite well, and I can’t say I had any major issues, including in our tent. That’s great, and exceeded my expectations, given the remote location.

The tents do have air conditioning, though it was definitely a bit of a struggle. Admittedly we were visiting during the hot season, so perhaps it’s not as big of an issue other times of the year. However, the air conditioning definitely had a hard time keeping up.

Shortly after arriving, we were almost worried if we’d be able to sleep, because even with the air conditioning, it was extremely hot. However, it did cool off at night, and on subsequent days, we simply made the tent dark whenever we left in the afternoons, to avoid it getting too hot. I don’t want to say that made it truly cool, but it meant the temperature was more acceptable. But if you’re very temperature sensitive, definitely be aware of that, or at least consider coming during the cooler season.

As I mentioned above, this property was built 20 years ago, and the “bones” have basically stayed the same since then, and I do think there are some opportunities to improve the tent:

• I wish the tent had more seating; there was one chair at the desk, and then two chairs by the bathroom, but they were really “deep,” and weren’t particularly comfortable for just lounging around; in general, there was just a lack of places to sit around the property, aside from the restaurant and bar, and I think that’s an opportunity (it would be nice to have something like an indoor, air conditioned library or communal room, for example)
• It really would be nice if the toilet area (at least) were also in the air conditioned space, since it’s not ideal to always have to step out into the hot to use it

Anyway, those are minor in the scheme of things, but they’re a couple of constructive points.

Four Seasons Golden Triangle pool

The Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle has a pool area right by reception. It’s very cool how this is basically built right into the jungle, with a pool, hot tub, and plenty of seating. You can even enjoy a meal here, and of course if someone is actually hanging out here, staff will also check on you, and offer you whatever you’d like.

As you’d expect, you’re out in nature, though, and it is a bit buggy.

Also right next to the pool is a yoga pavilion, which has some incredible views, and feels very peaceful.

Four Seasons Golden Triangle spa

The Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle has an outdoor spa. As a reminder, all stays include at least one 90-minute treatment per couple, and of course you can pay for extra treatments as well. You can find all the treatment options here, as there are massages, facials, and other body treatments.

The spa is very simple — it’s just one treatment pavilion with two massage tables, a bathtub, and some seating (which can be lifted, to reveal a toilet). At first I wondered if it would be uncomfortably hot, and filled with bugs.

I have to say, my expectations were massively exceeded. Ford and I both agreed it was the best spa treatment we ever had. The therapists were incredibly skilled. But beyond that, the setting was just sublime — there were fans to keep the area cool and keep bugs away, and listening to the sounds of nature in the jungle made me so relaxed.

The treatment was so good that we had to book another one for the next day, which was equally good.

Four Seasons Golden Triangle Nong Yao Restaurant

The Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle has a single primary restaurant, which is Nong Yao, located right by reception. Let me mention that while this is the primary dining venue, there are also special dining experiences that can be had with elephants, in the wine cellar, at the pool, etc. (some of which come at an extra cost).

Breakfast is served from 7AM until 11AM, lunch is served from 12PM until 4PM, and dinner is served from 7PM until 10PM (though really they’re very flexible, so it’s not like you’re going to be denied outside of those hours).

The restaurant is fully outdoors, and only has around 10 tables, so it’s quite intimate.

Throughout the day, the restaurant serves both Thai and international dishes, so you get a massive amount of flexibility. For that matter, if you want something else, they’ll gladly prepare that for you as well. It’s really like having a personal chef, and the food here is amazing.

Below is the breakfast menu…

The drinks were excellent, from the freshly squeezed juices, to the iced coffee beverages (it was too hot for hot coffee!).

The food was phenomenal was well, from a variety of Thai dishes, to the fresh fruit, to the acai bowl.

The real highlight of breakfast, though, was being able to feed the elephants. I’ll talk more about the overall ethics in a bit, but the idea is that the elephants sleep in the sanctuary area, and then spend their days hanging out by the river, and they take a path that goes through the resort.

Who doesn’t like a snack while on a road trip? 😉 So they stop by breakfast for some bananas, and other goodies, which guests are encouraged to feed them. As you’d expect, they’re always eating, so there’s plenty of bananas and appetite for everyone to feed to their heart’s content. 😉

Anyway, on to lunch, you can find that menu below…

We almost always stuck to local dishes, and every single one of them was great. Also, while I’m not usually a dessert at lunch kind of guy, the ice cream and sorbet options were delicious.

While breakfast and lunch are fully a la carte, with a huge selection to choose from, dinner has a set menu concept, and you can either go with a Thai or international selection. This rotates daily, so there’s plenty of variety, but you can find some samples below. Of course as mentioned above, if you don’t like something, they’re also happy to just prepare whatever you’d like.

For example, below is what we had one evening, when we went with the international selection (after enoying way too much delicious Thai food, and wanting to mix things up).

Four Seasons Golden Triangle Burma Bar

The Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle also has Burma Bar, open every evening from 5PM until 8PM. This is located on the opposite side of the property of the restaurant, and was right near our tent, so it’s nice to get a different vantage point.

The idea is that guests come here each evening for a sundowner and some canapés, and then head over to the restaurant for dinner. Let me again emphasize that drinks are included everywhere, so you can also order cocktails at dinner, to your tent, etc. Burma Bar is a lovely open air space, as you can tell based on the below pictures, and the views are also great.

Below is the included drink list, which are also all drinks you can get throughout the rest of the property.

I really enjoyed some of the signature cocktails, as well as the snacks.

Four Seasons Golden Triangle elephants & activities

The Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle offers a variety of activities, all of which you can find at this link (including costs, if applicable). A small number of activities are included, and then other activities come at an extra cost. Activities largely center around elephants and the local area (with everything from visits to temples and markets, to bicycle tours, and much more).

Let’s start by talking a bit about the elephants, since that’s the primary draw of staying here. Understandably, some people may have ethical concerns regarding the treatment of elephants, given the amount of exploitative elephant tourism out there. While I’m no elephant expert, this is something I put thought into before we stayed here, since I didn’t want to go to some sort of an elephant circus, or something, where the animals are chained, treated poorly, and told to do tricks for humans.

The idea is that the property’s owner is supposedly passionate about elephants, and has a foundation intended to rescue elephants that have been in captivity, that have been treated poorly, etc. There are currently 20 elephants that are part of the foundation.

As it was explained to me, these are largely elephants that wouldn’t survive in the wild and that spent most of their lives in captivity, before coming to the foundation. I can only go based on what I heard and saw, but it seems that they’re treated very well:

• Each elephant is essentially accompanied by a person 24/7 (so there are two people per elephant, who change shifts), and then they have a massive reserve they can roam around
• None of the activities involve things like riding the elephants, them doing any tricks, etc; instead, the idea is that the guests can be around elephants as they go about their daily tasks, like eating, bathing, etc.

Like I said, I don’t have any expertise here, but I felt good about that aspect of it, and it’s definitely something I was looking out for, because I’m not a fan of tourism based around treating animals poorly.

Beyond that, the region has a lot to offer, so we did an additional activity every day, visiting temples, local markets, etc. One of the nice things is that there’s not actually that much tourism around here, so you can visit places and basically have them to yourselves. Then there was my favorite excursion, which I’ll talk about in the next post, and which requires a lot of begging to arrange. 😉

There are also several additional dining options, depending on what you’re looking for. For example, the hotel has a wine cellar, and it’s possible to either do a wine tasting or to have a private dinner there (at an extra cost), so we had dinner there one evening. Not only was it nice to be in the coldest part of the hotel, but the dining experience was also enjoyable.

One evening, we also had a special elephant camp dinner, with the idea being that you can eat out in the area where the elephants spend the night. As you’d expect, this is quite a production, with a chef cooking there, and there’s even live music just for you. It was an incredible dining experience.

Four Seasons Golden Triangle service

Across the board, the service at the Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle was spectacular. The Four Seasons brand is known for its great service, and Thailand is known for having hospitable people, so when you combine the two, I have nothing but great things to say. A vast majority of the people working at the hotel are from the local community.

During our visit, only around five tents were occupied, so I can’t even imagine what the employee to guest ratio was. As you would expect, service was incredibly personalized, attentive, detail oriented, and frictionless.

Paweena, the camp manager, was a constant presence, and checked on guests morning, noon, and night (and also had a fascinating life story). One special additional shout out to Rain, who acted as our guide for most of of our stay, so he took part in most activities with us. He was truly one of the kindest and most interesting people I’ve had the pleasure of interacting with, and he was also super smart.

There are too many amazing employees to name, but I can’t imagine not being delighted by the level of service at this hotel.

Bottom line

The Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle isn’t your typical Four Seasons. This 16-key property is located in an elephant sanctuary, and offers an experience unlike any other Four Seasons I’ve stayed at.

I absolutely love the concept of this resort, of essentially being able to hang around elephants in an ethical way (as I see it), from feeding them breakfast, to bathing them. The staff here are incredible, the food is delicious, and I also had my favorite spa treatment ever here. I also find the Golden Triangle to be fascinating, both in terms of its history, and in terms of all there is to see beyond the property.

All that being said, this property is 20 years old, and while it’s well maintained, it could use some updates that bring it up to the standard that some Four Seasons guests will expect, like a gym, stronger air conditioning, and more functional seating in the room. I’d also love to see some sort of a communal indoor space, to let people cool off between activities, rather than just lounging in the limited in-tent seating. These are all minor in the scheme of things, though.

What’s your take on the Four Seasons Golden Triangle?