- Introduction: A Two-Part Birthday Trip To The Golden Triangle
- Review: British Airways Lounge Miami Airport (MIA)
- Review: American Flagship Lounge Miami Airport (MIA)
- Review: Qatar Airways Qsuites Business Class Airbus A350 (MIA-DOH)
- Review: Qatar Airways Qsuites Business Class Boeing 777 (DOH-BKK)
- Review: Rosewood Bangkok, Thailand (Solid, Second Tier Luxury City Hotel)
- Review: Capella Bangkok, Thailand (City Oasis, Ranked World’s Best Hotel)
- Review: Four Seasons Bangkok, Thailand (A World-Class Urban Resort)
- Review: Aman Bangkok, Thailand (One Of The World’s Best City Hotels)
- Review: Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle, Thailand (How Fun!)
- WOW: My Visit To Laos’ Creepy, Lawless “Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone”
- Review: Thai Airways Business Class Airbus A320 (CEI-BKK)
- Review: Royal Jordanian Business Class Boeing 787 (BKK-AMM)
- Review: Royal Jordanian Crown Lounge Amman Airport (AMM)
- Review: Plaza Premium Lounge Amman Airport (AMM)
- Review: Royal Jordanian Business Class Embraer E190-E2 (AMM-FRA)
- Review: Kennedy 89 Hotel Frankfurt, Hyatt Unbound Collection (I’m A Fan!)
- Review: Brunfels Hotel Mainz, Hyatt Unbound Collection (Charming, Mostly)
- Review: Lufthansa First Class Lounge Frankfurt Airport (FRA)
- Review: Lufthansa First Class Terminal Frankfurt Airport (FRA)
During my two-part birthday trip to the Golden Triangle, we spent a few nights at the Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle. As I hinted at in the review, we did a side trip during our stay that I found to be utterly fascinating, so let me explain how it came to happen, and what our experience was like. This is probably as close as I’ll ever get to visiting a place like North Korea (assuming divorce isn’t in the cards!)
In this post:
I saw something on the Mekong River, and became obsessed
As I explained in my review of the Four Seasons Golden Triangle, the arrivals experience is interesting — you fly into Chiang Rai Airport (CEI), then you drive for around 45 minutes, and then you take a long-tail boat for another 10 minutes.
That boat ride takes place right at the tri-point border region of the Golden Triangle, where Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar meet, at the Mekong River. The thing to understand is that this area is all rather rural, and doesn’t have much in the way of infrastructure.
As we started our boat ride, I saw something across the river, over in Laos, which caught my attention — it seemed to be a legitimate city, with high rises, and some sort of an extravagant-looking hotel.
I wasn’t expecting that, and the above picture doesn’t even do justice to how big the “city” is. For example, the Four Seasons Golden Triangle is built into a hill, and from the top of the property, you can even see the city in the distance, through the haze.
I asked one of the hotel employees about this — he answered “that’s the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone, it’s controlled by a Chinese businessman” There’s a special economic zone here?! My interest was piqued.
“Oh… is it possible to visit? Is there anything to see here?” “There’s not really anything there to see, it’s very quiet.” Okay, that answer just made this infinitely more intriguing to me. After all, people don’t usually build big cities in the middle of nowhere(ish) for no reason, and if it’s quiet… well, that’s all the more fascinating and suspicious.
Before we even made it to the hotel, the wheels in my head were turning. I mean, keep in mind the Golden Triangle has quite the historical reputation. The “triangle” part is easy enough, since it’s where three countries meet, while the “golden” refers to its historical status as the world’s most prominent region for the illicit opium trade, as the crop was literally worth its weight in gold.
So you’re telling me a Chinese businessman built a “special economic zone” in a region that’s historically known for drug trafficking, thanks to the ease with which things can be moved between three countries? Oh my…
For the next 24 hours, during any downtime I had, I started reading every story and watching every video I could about this “special economic zone.” Goodness, it was so much shadier than I could’ve even expected:
- The man behind this is Zhao Wei, a (now) 73-year-old Chinese national who made a lot of money investing in casinos in Macau back in the 1990s
- In 2007, he decided to expand his business beyond Macau, and managed to secure a 99-year land lease with the government of Laos, to essentially create a 39 square mile “special economic zone,” which he controls, meaning authorities in Laos have no jurisdiction over it
- Officially, the idea was to bring development to this region, in hopes of increasing tourism and business in the region, all centered around his casino brand, Kings Romans Group; of course the claim is he wants to help the region, arguing that by creating economic opportunity, he’d help drive drug trafficking out of the region
- You’ll be shocked to hear that there might be more to this than just a casino element, with his “Zhao Wei Transnational Criminal Organisation” (TCO) allegedly involved in drug trafficking, human trafficking, money laundering, bribery, wildlife trafficking, and other forms of transnational organized crime, all centered around this “special economic zone”
Below are a few videos about the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone, and if you can only watch one, I’d recommend the first one. The accusations are absolutely wild, especially regarding human trafficking. There are claims that people were offered good paying jobs in the area, only to arrive, have their passports confiscated, and then essentially be trapped, forced to work on all kinds of scams (including romance scams).
Our trip to the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone!
When it comes to travel, nothing makes me giddier than having an experience where I don’t know what to expect. This is true of airlines, hotels, and destinations.
So after having done my research, I started asking the lovely Four Seasons camp manager if it would be possible to visit the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone. She was a bit surprised by the request — she said in the past five years, no guest had asked to visit, and she also warned us that there’s not actually a lot to see there.
She wasn’t sure if Laos was currently allowing day visits from Thailand at the Golden Triangle border (it had apparently been suspended at some point), so she said she’d have to check on that. So the next day while on a tour with our awesome guide, Rain, we stopped by the immigration checkpoint to ask. They confirmed it would be possible, so we then visited a passport photo store to get our pictures taken, since we’d need a visa on arrival for Laos.
She recommended that Rain go with us to the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone, and we made it our morning activity the last full day. Honestly, if I had known about this all in advance, I would’ve planned to spend a night at the Kapok Star Hotel (that big, golden casino hotel), but alas, we tried to make the most of our time, so could only squeeze in a morning visit.
I wondered what it would be like. In particular, I wondered if this project had basically been abandoned at this point, or just how quiet the whole area would feel? After all, with the amount of negative press this area has gotten, plus the sanctions, I imagine there’s more scrutiny on the area than in the past, and maybe it’s no longer accomplishing its goals (especially post-COVID).
So with much excitement, at around 9AM we headed to the Thailand Golden Triangle immigration checkpoint, to go over to Laos.
The boat ride took all of five minutes.
Laos has quite the modern immigration facility here, specifically welcoming people to the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone. Clearly they had big hopes for the region, but it was basically deserted.
In the arrivals area, there were three ATMs, so you could get the currency of China, Laos, or Thailand.
Just outside the immigration checkpoint, we found someone to drive us around for a couple of hours (in these odd, large golf carts, of sorts). As we left the parking lot, we saw what looked like an abandoned Bentley… or at least it didn’t have any plates. But I guess who needs plates when you’re in a lawless place, especially since I imagine that someone here who has a Bentley is pretty connected? 😉
The second we got out of the immigration area, the situation got even stranger. There were massive six-lane roads, that were just completely empty. Like, you’d see a motorbike every so often, but that was about it. There were basically no signs of life.
The next thing I noticed was the number of cigar “clubs.” There was one on every corner, but they also seemed to be pretty deserted, though admittedly it was only mid-morning.
Our first stop was a beautiful pedestrian zone, which was sort of abandoned, but sort of not.
We didn’t see a single other person there, yet the doors to many stores were open, and some even had a sign about how you could take items, and just leave money in a box. There were also some monkeys in cages just sitting outside, which… was kind of sad and eerie.
There was some KFC signage, though I imagine it has been a while since that was open, and for that matter, something tells me they were never paying franchise fees. 😉
We also visited a breathtaking temple, where we saw one of our first signs of life — there was a monk. Yes, just one. I’d love to know his story…
Then there was “Little Venice,” which was super creepy. It looked more like Disney World than Venice, but again, there was no sign of life.
Next, we visited the Kapok Star Hotel, the 500+ room casino hotel. This really gave very strong North Korea vibes — like, the hotel appeared to be fully operational, but is anyone actually staying here??
Architecturally, it’s certainly quite a building, with a huge atrium.
There was a big banner in the lobby about the “International Art Exhibition of the Golden Triangle for Peace.” But of course… peace!
Our driver insisted on walking us around the hotel. We ended up on a higher floor, which he said had good views of the city.
There was a coffee shop there, so I offered to buy us all a coffee. I then realized that the extent of the coffee shop was basically a $5 drip coffee machine, so I didn’t actually want anything. But I had already offered, so our driver ordered a coffee. Even though this coffee shop was staffed, we must’ve been their first customer of the day, because they couldn’t actually get the sole drip coffee machine to work. It took all of 15 minutes for them to even turn it on.
We also walked through the casino, where there’s a strict no photos policy (and I didn’t want to do anything to get into trouble, for obvious reasons). To my surprise, there were actually a good number of people there. As it was explained to me, these are largely people who come over from Thailand for the day to gamble.
We then just drove up and down the streets, looking at some absolutely massive buildings — some were complete, and some were still actively under construction. It was odd, because you’d see maybe five construction workers working on one of these buildings, so it’s like they’re doing something, but not going full steam ahead.
If I saw one of the videos correctly, this block of buildings is also where some people are (or were) reportedly “imprisoned,” as part of these scam centers.
We then stopped by a market, which had a ton of stalls, but again, no visitors…
And then we made our way back to Thailand, since we had plans in the afternoon. Before I wrap this up, let me make a few points:
- For those who think it’s reckless that we visited, we were of course intentional with how we approached this; I wasn’t video recording and sticking a camera in peoples’ faces, trying to knock down doors, or anything like that, but instead, we just acted like normal tourists, and I didn’t think that would arouse any suspicion (and it didn’t)
- Some people may take issue ethically with the concept of visiting places like this; personally, I think increased coverage of the area only helps in holding the various parties accountable, and simply ignoring it is almost what they want, in terms of continuing with whatever they’re doing
- This is truly one of the strangest places I’ve ever been, because I’ve never been to a place that’s semi-deserted in this way; like, there were people gambling, but other than that, there was almost no one
- In an ideal world, I would’ve loved to spend a night here, and to walk around independently in the evenings, when it’s maybe a little more lively, or something, but we tried to make the best of our limited time, and squeezed this in at the last minute
- This isn’t surprising, I suppose, but it’s interesting how everyone just acted as if this was all completely normal; again, that makes sense, since this is what locals are used to, but for me it felt like being in an alternate reality
I’d be fascinated to know what the actual current state of things is. On the one hand, it all feels quite deserted, and one would think that this concept has largely been abandoned, given the increased international scrutiny on it.
On the other hand, there’s still construction work going on. As we drove down the streets, I of course couldn’t help but wonder if there were still people “imprisoned” in those high rises, or if all of that had been shut down, in the meantime.
It’s all a mystery, but I can officially say that this is the most unusual place I’ve ever been.
Bottom line
When we made plans to travel to the Golden Triangle, I was expecting to see elephants and cool nature, and not a creepy, abandoned, lawless city. But that’s the joy of travel sometimes, when you’re caught off guard, and have an experience you weren’t expecting.
The Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone has been under development for nearly 20 years, and is essentially a city in Laos that’s run by a Chinese businessman, and laws don’t apply there. Officially, it’s intended to be a place for tourism and economic development. Unofficially, well… there’s a lot of other stuff going on there as well.
This place is unlike anywhere I’ve ever been, and I still can’t stop thinking about it. I wish I had been able to spend a night, and dig a little deeper. But hey, we made the best of our time, and our visit made for a morning that I won’t soon forget.
What do you make of the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone?
Fascinating - don't think I'd ever want to visit a place like this myself so interesting to learn about it secondhand.
Brilliant article, Ben - really enjoyed it. Something very different, what an intriguing place. Definitely glad you visited!
I don't comment much, but... cool story bro. Nice post!
Fascinating and interesting post Ben - would love more like this at destinations!
Cool article Ben, that place is so strange. A lot of the photos come across as downright eerie, like they're post-apocalyptic film sets.
Looks very much like a site for secret squid games, the very last photo with the doll statue titled "Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone market" looks like perfect site for red light green light :)
Haha I was thinking just the same!
Rain:
Good morning, Mr. Lucky!
Would you like to do any activity today? We have a wide variety of local experiences like Thai Cooking Classes, Engage with Elephants...
-Mr. (very)Lucky had an ace up his sleeve
Ben:
Well, We would like to visit the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone.
-Even the elephants turned their heads...
Epic journey! Such an interesting trip report.
I checked out the Kapok Star hotel online and every time I tried to make a reservation it showed no rooms were available. Perhaps not surprising given a “five-star” hotel had rooms renting for $66 a night. I doubt that rooms are ever available. The whole thing appears to be a Potemkin village.
I've stayed at 5* hotels for less, SE Asia isn't exactly an expensive part of the world. In fact, Trivago is showing a fair few 5* options available tonight in Bangkok for less than that!
So cool! You should definitely do more posts about straight travel. One of the most fun reads! Thanks for the post!
Kudos for reporting this trip, Ben!
Places like that may be really dangerous for some nationalities, as they may become victims of trafficking, or worse. This area became a modern triangle for scam industries. Perhaps Thailand is a victim here, in a way. There was a quite famous case of a Chinese actor who thought was being hired for some film work in Thailand, but finished being held against his will, smuggled to Myanmar,...
Kudos for reporting this trip, Ben!
Places like that may be really dangerous for some nationalities, as they may become victims of trafficking, or worse. This area became a modern triangle for scam industries. Perhaps Thailand is a victim here, in a way. There was a quite famous case of a Chinese actor who thought was being hired for some film work in Thailand, but finished being held against his will, smuggled to Myanmar, and forced to work for Chinese scamming gangs. They are ruthless!
He was found and saved, luckily...
https://www.theguardian.com/world/2025/feb/19/myanmar-scam-call-centre-compound-rescues-thailand-crackdown
That perceived lack of personal safety provoked quite a drop in Chinese tourists to Thailand. These scamming compounds look like mini-cities, not unlike the one you have visited in Laos.
Btw, you can book Kapok Star Hotel on Priceline. It has one just one review... 10/10 score...
Lucky visits a SE Asian scam centre was not the trip report I expected. Kudos for taking the road less traveled.
Empty roads and storefronts, unfinished buildings, Chinese “businessmen” and streets named after regions of Italy. Sounds like Sunset Town, Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam.
That place in Saudi could have looked just like this in a few years.
Ben - have you ever been to the DMZ in South Korea? It is fascinating. There are the tunnels of course (recommended unless you are claustrophobic) . You can look into North Korea - and you see an amazing city with skyscrapers and nice buildings.
Our guide told me the buildings are all fake, there are no buildings there.
And they were playing North Korean propaganda on loud speakers.
I found it very interesting and worth a visit.
Finally a good post by Lucky.... Havent had anything good from him in a while.
My favorite Trump quote: “I love the poorly educated”.
Since you went there… mine may be from today: President Trump stated, "I love the inflation" on June 10, 2026, after May data showed a three-year high of 4.2%. And, a few days earlier, he said: “I don't think about Americans' financial situation, I don't think about anybody.” 146 days until the midterms, folks…
I think you’ve found the Four Seasons location for season 5 of The White Lotus!!
During our visit to the golden triangle last year our guide explained that the main draw was the casino and that it was built so that Chinese communist party officials could travel to Laos without a special permit to gamble and experience western style "decadence" for a few days using government funds to explore the economic development zone.
We stayed at the Anantara resort next to the 4 seasons property and found it to be...
During our visit to the golden triangle last year our guide explained that the main draw was the casino and that it was built so that Chinese communist party officials could travel to Laos without a special permit to gamble and experience western style "decadence" for a few days using government funds to explore the economic development zone.
We stayed at the Anantara resort next to the 4 seasons property and found it to be a great experience- few guests and lots of opportunities to interact with elephants on the property. You can even sleep outside in bubble rooms right next to the elephants and feed them dinner and breakfast.
Guide also said that Myanmar right across the river was very dangerous and basically ruled by 3 drug lords who have divided up the country and constantly are fighting with the official government.
Yup. Total North Korea vibes. I'm fascinated with places like this as well, but it's a no thanks for me.
What about the elephants ?
Such a great coverage.
What a shame!!!!
All those whiners who stop visiting Ben's blog don't get to see such a good post.
Same with those freeloaders who compare it with Gary or accusing it as card pusher or ad covers. They also stop coming here because of the content.
But if you do read this, your just a big mouth hypocrite snowflake.
Stop whining and enjoy your own hypocrisy.
"compare it with Gary"... wait, was there a 'fights on planes' story hidden in this post about Laos??
This is an incredible post - I also would have been fascinated by a city in the middle of nowhere, thanks for deciding to visit and making this post!
There was a Chinese tv drama called "Escape from the Trilateral Slopes" (边水往事 in Chinese), where the drama is basically about places like this and anything happening around the golden triangle (the drug/ casino/ and all the illegal/ dramatic stuff). It's quite interesting and if you are interested in this topic, you should definitely watch it!!!!!
I think there's English sub versions on Youtube
Thanks. That’s why i come here for.
Keep the Trip Reports coming!
surfing around the town on google streetview... I think I found the same Bentley. https://maps.app.goo.gl/q5sdxPhZsFvG66628
@ BC -- Amazing find!!
This blog is not only reserved for the miles and points enthusiasts. Frequent Miler is genuinely and authentically a "miles and points" blog. As for those ethically minded individuals, they have a twisted definition of the term. There is virtually nothing ethically about capitalism and democracy as defined and understood by those people in this country.
I am surprised that you were not aware of this area. When you mentioned it a month or...
This blog is not only reserved for the miles and points enthusiasts. Frequent Miler is genuinely and authentically a "miles and points" blog. As for those ethically minded individuals, they have a twisted definition of the term. There is virtually nothing ethically about capitalism and democracy as defined and understood by those people in this country.
I am surprised that you were not aware of this area. When you mentioned it a month or so ago, I thought you meant some wildlife animals in the jungle. You watched and mentioned a show "Trafficked" with Mariana van Zeller on National Geographics channel, you must have missed her investigative report on this matter. In my opinion, she is the best journalist of the pack. She covered narco industry deep inside Central and South America for over two decades, plus a host of other breathtaking educational topics such as counterfeit money, human organs black market, anti-gay law in Uganda that is bankrolled by those Evangelical zealots in Texas, etc.... Now, she branched out into Africa and SE Asia. It is a place where they "warehouse" trafficked women in Laos, Thailand, Vietnam to serve those casino high rollers. Most of them are wealthy Chinese. I have learned so much about Africa and Latin America from her investigative reports whose subject matters linked to American culture. Golden Triangle jungle is famous for opium and Latin America is the mecca for narco drug pins. Yet, two opposite religions and cultures set them apart. The latter is exceptionally violent dangerous. I strongly believe that Africa and Latin America will not advance in the next three generations, if ever. They are basically the forgotten silent continents in all areas, such as travel destinations, medicine, high-tech, etc.. They are only known for their violence, warfare and poverty.
@ globetrotter -- I had no clue this was featured on Trafficked, so I'll have to check it out... thank you!
@globetrotter, wow, racist much? " I strongly believe that Africa and Latin America will not advance in the next three generations, if ever. They are basically the forgotten silent continents in all areas, such as travel destinations, medicine, high-tech, etc.. They are only known for their violence, warfare and poverty." You don't know what you are talking about. And then Ben's response is completely out of focus.
Latin America and Africa certainly have more than their fair share of bad governance, though most countries in Latin America and at least some countries in Africa also had (or currently have) pretty decent and effective governments at some point in their history.
Both have lots of absolutely amazing nature-focused travel destinations. I am pretty sure there are great cities too, but I've only been to Buenos Aires and Cape Town. Both cities are...
Latin America and Africa certainly have more than their fair share of bad governance, though most countries in Latin America and at least some countries in Africa also had (or currently have) pretty decent and effective governments at some point in their history.
Both have lots of absolutely amazing nature-focused travel destinations. I am pretty sure there are great cities too, but I've only been to Buenos Aires and Cape Town. Both cities are totally worth spending a few days, but Cape Town was not safe outside gated areas such as V&A waterfront or being outside the city proper (such as in the wine region)
This is good content - muy gusto
You should watch the Chinese film "No More Bets" if you haven't already.
Fascinating post and something I have been asking for a long time as part of your reviews when visiting different countries. Keep posts like this coming.
@ Santastico -- Hey, I appreciate the feedback, and maybe I'll try to do more on-the-ground non-hotel/airline posts going forward.
Really great post! Would love more of this content. Even in more vanilla locations maybe one "off the beaten path not your typical tourist" post would be great.
For less nefarious but similar deserted city vibes, add Nyapitaw, Myanmar to your list of places to visit. It’s surreal driving on the empty roads and being the only guests in a massive hotel. As the capital city it does have some people living there, but many who visit for government meetings literally fly in that morning and out in the afternoon because there is nothing else to do there.
Walter Mitty Dunn, has rattled my cage, as I do so enjoy his attempts to invite further discussion, I have prepared a question for him on the only aviation subject which he thinks he knows about …. Delta.
Could Delta Airlines be in financial distress?
I ask the question because it is widely reported that over the past twelve months, NO Delta Insider has bought any Delta shares. Quite the opposite really as there...
Walter Mitty Dunn, has rattled my cage, as I do so enjoy his attempts to invite further discussion, I have prepared a question for him on the only aviation subject which he thinks he knows about …. Delta.
Could Delta Airlines be in financial distress?
I ask the question because it is widely reported that over the past twelve months, NO Delta Insider has bought any Delta shares. Quite the opposite really as there are many reports of the Insiders selling their shares.
When company insiders are selling and not buying shares, this often indicates trouble ahead …. Yes?
Is that why the insiders sacked you Gunga Dunn?
first, I am BEYOND honored that I have rattled you. Mission accomplished one day at a time.
DAL stock is up more than all other US airlines for nearly all time periods over the past year and is trading at near record highs which says volumes about investor confidence in the company. DAL has the highest market cap and revenue of any airline in the world and it will be one of if not the...
first, I am BEYOND honored that I have rattled you. Mission accomplished one day at a time.
DAL stock is up more than all other US airlines for nearly all time periods over the past year and is trading at near record highs which says volumes about investor confidence in the company. DAL has the highest market cap and revenue of any airline in the world and it will be one of if not the most profitable airlines.
So, no, there is no lack of confidence by DL execs.
We will hear earnings updates within the next week from most airlines - in all likelihood - and earnings start in about 1 month.
DL will undoubtedly see some of the best profit performance because of the refinery benefits, the disproportionate benefit to DL from NK's shutdown and the fact that UA will start recording much higher labor costs.
none of this has anything to do with what is happening in deep SE Asia but I always want to make sure that your questions are addressed.
Gotcha Walter, now to wind in the catch! …. :-)
You cannot even read and comprehend anything which I have written, can you Gunga Dunn?
I posted that you have “Rattled my cage”. That expression, as most aviators will tell you, means that you have only attempted to wind me up. The operative word is “Attempted”, Ok Walter? Trust me, far better men, real men, have tried and failed to ‘rattle’ me, you stand absolutely...
Gotcha Walter, now to wind in the catch! …. :-)
You cannot even read and comprehend anything which I have written, can you Gunga Dunn?
I posted that you have “Rattled my cage”. That expression, as most aviators will tell you, means that you have only attempted to wind me up. The operative word is “Attempted”, Ok Walter? Trust me, far better men, real men, have tried and failed to ‘rattle’ me, you stand absolutely no chance at all. But thanks for the grin Walter.
You post: “There is no lack of confidence by DL execs”. That being the case why are they selling and not buying?
You post: “I always want to make sure that your questions are addressed”.
Then Walter, why will you not tell me the reason you were fired from Delta?
Not forgetting, why do you pretend to be a pilot?
Those two very basic questions along with many other people’s questions steadfastly remain unanswered, why?
Your failures to answer is a clear admission of your unwillingness to be truthful Tim Dunn, yes?
Epic man, share more of these stories! Cool you got to experience what’s left of the Golden Triangle. Certainly not what it used to be (as you showed) and everything is much more discreet now due to higher legal enforcement.
The boat ride across the river is the wild part in perspective. It’s how they smuggle women across borders between the 3 (for, uh, yeah) and oftentimes there’s only a 80-90% chance you make...
Epic man, share more of these stories! Cool you got to experience what’s left of the Golden Triangle. Certainly not what it used to be (as you showed) and everything is much more discreet now due to higher legal enforcement.
The boat ride across the river is the wild part in perspective. It’s how they smuggle women across borders between the 3 (for, uh, yeah) and oftentimes there’s only a 80-90% chance you make it. Gets done in the dark and women are blindfolded. Horrific. Used to happen around the golden triangle before it was clamped down and they moved to different locations. Substances now mainly go straight through China and Bangladesh from Burma.
Ben, I know you mentioned the DPRK, but gotta say, nothing like it. You should visit! You are someone that follows the rules, and we all respect that, so nothing wrong with a visit. People have this made up fantasy that you are going to get imprisoned and die if you go, you won’t if you don’t do something illegal. I’d argue for someone that’s respectful, it’s safer visiting DPRK than many other places in the world as there is a system and you are constantly monitored.
Kindly enlighten us on how to visit N Korea and Myanmar. I'd love to explore them and Russia and Iran in a decade. Especially when Netanyahu's bloodletting mentality reaches the climax and decide to flatten/ nuke Iranian historic sites. But the latter two are off limit at the moment.
Myanmar is the easiest at the moment, along with Russia. Been to both this year for the third time in 3 years.
Russia? Just get a visa. Can get it in 3 days tops. Completely safe in any major city, actually I’d argue safer than the states
Myanmar? Visa takes 2 days and is an E-Visa. You can go to rural areas but shouldn’t. Bagan, Mandalay, Kalaw, Yangon completely safe (for foreigners, for...
Myanmar is the easiest at the moment, along with Russia. Been to both this year for the third time in 3 years.
Russia? Just get a visa. Can get it in 3 days tops. Completely safe in any major city, actually I’d argue safer than the states
Myanmar? Visa takes 2 days and is an E-Visa. You can go to rural areas but shouldn’t. Bagan, Mandalay, Kalaw, Yangon completely safe (for foreigners, for locals is a different deal)
Iran is off limits for the time being for most people, especially US citizens. Before, it was easy to go as US citizen as long as you had a tour. The Iranians are lovely to US tourists.
DPRK: they are about to reopen for tourism again. As long as you don’t solely have a US passport, you’re good to go with a tour group.
It’s all very straightforward
This place could have been the set for Squid Game. First season, of course.
Since you've started a thing, can we have a 12hr trip report to Turkmenistan too please? ;)
HEADLINE: Man leaves chain hotel for first time, discovers there is a world out there!
Lmao well said
Wow super interesting post. I think you may have a career in investigative journalism Ben! I think the logical next step is a review of Air Koryo.
Wow, incredibly strange and fascinating, and a great post! Thanks for doing this, and for the review!
Love this story! Keep up the good work Lucky
This is an awesome post, thanks for it!!! More of this type of posts please. I've read about this Laos SEZ but yours is the most interesting of them all.
This was incredibly fascinating, Ben. Thank you for sharing the pictures and especially your insights.
Amazing post Ben, you could do a whole series on places like this.
Your description of the place reads like the the first minutes of the movie “Spirited Away”, and the pictures just reinforce that impression.
To find out more about the trafficking (no need to put that word in quotes) listen to The Economist's excellent podcast series "Scam Inc". After listening to the series, I'm thrilled to get this content from Ben.
Wow this is one of the best reviews I have ever read from you in a while! Thanks for this!
Content like this is what makes OMAAT different!
Great article. Only wish Ben had visited Bokeo International Airport, which opened a couple years ago, and done some reviews of the lounges there. I do find it beneficial to step outside our comfort zones and visit mysterious places that don't get many tourists. One of my most memorable, interesting visits ever was to Transnistria.
Oh and hey, they have an airport too!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bokeo_International_Airport
Quite a contrast from the Four Seasons review, wild to think that this was just across the border from where you were staying
I am glad you went and also that you wrote the article, Ben. The best part of what you do is expanding people's worlds and you have succeeded in doing that. Obviously, the news organizations that have produced videos had to go much deeper. You have been able to shed more light with little investment into a region where the darkness of human hearts is allowed to exist.
thank you, Ben.
Well said, Tim.
So, when's Delta flying to BKK? (Interestingly, I think I saw United there in February... hmm...)
I doubt any US airline will ever do well to SE Asia outside of SIN; it is just too far and there isn't enough business traffic to fill more than a few seats.
AC is likely to do more than US carriers in part because of lower costs and their ability to siphon off traffic from the US fairly successfully.
maybe UA should consider a MAX 8 flight from NRT to the GTSEZ
But, Tim, I was under the impression that Delta is about to give Asia another go? Huh, that was a quick about-face…
Well now, 1990.
I was just about to post that you probably stand more chance of winning that Mega Lottery than extracting a sensible response from Walter Mitty Dunn. Then jolly-G he beats me to the punch and post a bag full of gobbledygook as per normal.
Lucky you 1990, lucky you …. :-)
1990 is an asset to the aviation social media world.
You, not so much. Actually, not at all
That’s high-praise, Tim. Likewise!
Not sure what Aero’s on-about sometimes. Regardless, the interactions can be fun. After all, can’t all be about load-factor on here…
“Not sure what Aero’s on-about sometimes”.
Just ask 1990, if I can tell you without committing an offence under the Official Secrets Act, then unlike Gunga Dunn, I will spill the beans to you darlink …. :-)
Walter, you crack me up …. :-)
You may possess a little out of date knowledge about your beloved Delta Airlines, plus your dislike of every other airline maybe blatantly obvious, however, nobody will ever accuse you of knowing anything about ‘Aviation’ old sock.
You are no pilot, while some of us held a solo gliding qualification before you were released from your approved school.
You are no pilot, however, some of us held...
Walter, you crack me up …. :-)
You may possess a little out of date knowledge about your beloved Delta Airlines, plus your dislike of every other airline maybe blatantly obvious, however, nobody will ever accuse you of knowing anything about ‘Aviation’ old sock.
You are no pilot, while some of us held a solo gliding qualification before you were released from your approved school.
You are no pilot, however, some of us held a PPL before you left school Walter.
You are no pilot, notwithstanding, some of us held a FO’s Commission in the Royal Air Force, while you were blanket stacking in the USAF.
You may have graduated from Memphis State University with a Bachelor of Business Administration Degree, however, your degree does not qualify you as an aeronautical engineer, while some of us studied for such in Oxford.
You worked for Delta Airlines for thirty years as a shiny bum, on the other hand, some of us spent the same amount of time completing a full flying career in the RAF.
By all accounts you were fired by Delta, why Walter?
Some of us actually retired from the RAF with full military honours and then went on to continue flying SAR missions for a further two decades.
What exactly do you think that you can teach me about real “Aviation” Walter Mitty Dunn?
Sorry to break up your new affair between 1990.
But @ Tim Dunn -- We're waiting to learn which EWR-LAX frequencies UA operates with 737-900ERs, please!! These are the important details!
Yes, both you Eskimo and me are in a queue of people awaiting for the answers to questions asked of Gunga Dunn.
I am not holding my breath awaiting the answers …. :-)
Glad you got to visit this place
Looks like this is a front for something probably human trafficking which is the normal in border cities in the area.
The Backrooms: Golden Triangle Edition
When I read this article yesterday I was surprised that I could not recall hearing about the place. After speaking to my son in Penang, he reminded me that last year he and his brother-in-law were talking about it and would like to visit out of curiosity.
They were pleased to read the article after I had shared the link. They immediately expressed their gratitude to Ben, for preparing the ground for a visit....
When I read this article yesterday I was surprised that I could not recall hearing about the place. After speaking to my son in Penang, he reminded me that last year he and his brother-in-law were talking about it and would like to visit out of curiosity.
They were pleased to read the article after I had shared the link. They immediately expressed their gratitude to Ben, for preparing the ground for a visit. Later in the year we will escape from the domestic bliss on the Island and have a ‘boys only’ visit. I hope that it lives up to expectations.
Thank you Ben.
What a great post! Super interesting. Thanks for sharing!
Great post! I get that people have reservations about this kind of stuff, but it's definitely better to have a glimpse into it than help those who don't want too much publicity.
This is infinitely more interesting content than the reviews of the Parisian hangouts of Saudi royals.
I found this to be one of your most interesting posts in a long time.
Agreed!
Of all the 'activities' you suggested that you'd experience, I was not expecting this. This has that 'uncanny valley' feel to it. Oof, and that air quality is... no bueno. As far as Laos goes, much better to visit/stay in Luang Prabang.
@ 1990 -- I've been to Luang Prabang, and had a great time, so I agree with you on that front. Regarding the air quality, unfortunately there were some fires in the area around our visit, which was the cause.
There are some places where air quality is a major factor about whether it's worth visiting (can be like smoking a pack of cigarettes!) First time I went to mainland China, over a decade ago, it was really bad there (like, immediate sore throat getting off the plane in Beijing); but, in recent years, they've made serious improvements (less coal power plants, less heavy metals in the air, etc.); it's still hazy, but you don't...
There are some places where air quality is a major factor about whether it's worth visiting (can be like smoking a pack of cigarettes!) First time I went to mainland China, over a decade ago, it was really bad there (like, immediate sore throat getting off the plane in Beijing); but, in recent years, they've made serious improvements (less coal power plants, less heavy metals in the air, etc.); it's still hazy, but you don't feel like you're becoming ill just by being outside. Meanwhile, parts of South and Southeast Asia, yikes, it's gotten far, far worse over the past decade (sometimes its pollution, burning of crops, etc.; other times its time-of-year, mountains trapping the air, etc.) Not to go-off-the-deep-end here, but, I sincerely hope we never allow it to get as bad as it was in the US decades ago before Clean Air Act and EPA, etc. (smog, acid rain, etc.) Those lessons were hard-learned, but, apparently, easily forgotten by some who want to profit off harming everyone else's' health...
There is a chapter in Rachel Nuwer's Poached (the book is about animal trafficking and poaching) about this economic zone—I suggest reading it.
That sounds like an utterly depressing read
Very cool post, nice to see something I had not heard about before. For sure its intriguing to see these places exist. I started following your blog after seeing these unknown airlines from the inside and this gave me those vibes. Kudos!
Similar to Thailand behind the beauty are many sad stories. People that think this country so horrible, racist, evil, etc. are the same people that have no clue how billions in this world live.
Is that a pinch of 'empathy' out of you, George; or, like usual, are you merely trying to normalize racism/bigotry?
The level of privilege it takes to willfully visit (and gush about) a place where other people have been forced into economic slavery is just...I don't even have words for it. My only solace is that you make posts like this from a place of ignorance, not sadism.
@ Lugh -- Hey, I respect your opinion, and I see where you're coming from. We all have to make our own decisions, so let me just share a few thoughts.
First of all, I'm not "gushing" about anything. I found it to be fascinating, which can be positive or negative. Obviously my interest here was negative rather than positive. I'm similarly fascinated by North Korea, and have watched a countless number of documentaries about...
@ Lugh -- Hey, I respect your opinion, and I see where you're coming from. We all have to make our own decisions, so let me just share a few thoughts.
First of all, I'm not "gushing" about anything. I found it to be fascinating, which can be positive or negative. Obviously my interest here was negative rather than positive. I'm similarly fascinated by North Korea, and have watched a countless number of documentaries about the country, not because I am a "fan," but instead, because I find it to be so interesting to learn as much as possible about life there, given how different it is than my own.
Second, I had no clue what the current state of things would be like. I didn't know if it would be a full-on abandoned ghost city at this point, or what. Obviously the entire area made me feel uncomfortable, and I spent most of my time there thinking about what might or might not be going on behind the surface. I think visiting places like this is also an important reminder of how much of the world lives in varying kinds of bad conditions, which is so easy to otherwise ignore.
Third, I'd argue that visiting places like this is actually positive, in terms of bringing attention to what's going on. More publicity for this only increases scrutiny of this region, sanctions, etc. If everyone simply ignored it, they'd be more likely to get away with whatever they're doing.
Thanks for at least only thinking I'm only ignorant, and not a sadist... I appreciate that!
Ben, thank you for writing this piece. Great description of a very intriguing place.
As for your fascination with North Korea, I can spare you the expense, effort and risk, by sharing a thing or two about how life is there. Believe it or not, my country's leadership decided that North Korea was a great example to follow, so we did. I was born and raised in Romania. The local democratic socialist dictator (Ceausescu) first...
Ben, thank you for writing this piece. Great description of a very intriguing place.
As for your fascination with North Korea, I can spare you the expense, effort and risk, by sharing a thing or two about how life is there. Believe it or not, my country's leadership decided that North Korea was a great example to follow, so we did. I was born and raised in Romania. The local democratic socialist dictator (Ceausescu) first courted the West but then, after touring North Korea starting in the early 1970s, he got ideas.
A few highlights. High rise buildings sprang up, just like in North Korea. Very little heating and hot water, during the very cold winters (same as in North Korea). Very little food, including rationed oil, sugar, bread and meat, especially in the last few years of this experiment. Even rationed food required waiting in a shopping line for hours, with no guarantee for success. In fact, in the last few years of the regime the plan was to completely do away with grocery stores, in the large cities, and to build some giant cafeterias instead. The locals nicknamed them "The Hunger Circuses" because of their round shape domes and complete lack of food.
The fuel was rationed too. Also, there were extended periods of time when the private vehicles were simply prohibited from using the roads. If you wanted to purchase a new vehicle (domestic production or imported from elsewhere behind the Iron Curtain) you had to put your name on a list and wait about 4-5 years. As a result, there were very few cars.
Just two TV channels, and, in the last few years of the regime, one went away while the other one was broadcasting for exactly two hours. What was being broadcast? Giant propaganda shows with people praising the wonderful leader, and lots of fake reports about the wonderful state of the economy. Again, just like in North Korea.
Zero private business. Everything, including the few convenience stores and restaurants, not to mention all factories and farms, was owned by the government. Same as in North Korea.
There were very few hospitals, which were cold in the winter and hot in the summer, poorly maintained and equipped. And there was no medicine and even the super basic feminine hygiene products were missing. But yes, it was all free, just like in North Korea.
The population was under constant surveillance. A lot of people were collaborating with the secret police, either because they gained some small advantages or because they were blackmailed into it. As a result, it was not safe to discuss certain (actually most) things at school, at work, or anywhere else. All the phone communications were subject to being recorded. All mailings, especially when involving foreign addresses, were expected to being read by the secret police. Everyone who was not playing by the rules was deemed to be a reactionary and the consequences were harsh: loss of job, imprisonment, torture, hard labor and even death. Same as in North Korea.
Traveling outside the country was next to impossible, with very few exceptions. You did not own a passport, you had to apply to the secret police to get one, answer lots of questions about why and where you planning to go, and you had to surrender it upon returning to the country.
Owning foreign currency, even in small amounts, and even if it was the currency of other democrat socialist countries, was a felony.
Interacting with foreigners was prohibited and had to be reported in case it occurred.
Thanks.
So I take you’ve never visited the U.S., Europe, LatAm, S. Amer or Asia? ALL of them at one point forced people into economic slavery. Must be a sad little hole you live in with that sanctimonious view of the world. Go touch grass.
Jake, feel free to add: Tippu Tip in Zanzibar, if you want a real 'tour' of that dark history... *sigh*
I wouldn't visit a plantation or a concentration camp site and say this is interesting or wish I could spend a night, especially when that operation is still ongoing. I personally know people who are trafficked over there this year. I'm glad that Ben made the visit that surfaced this story so more attention from the West is drawn to this place. But I hope people reading this realize that this is an active crime scene and there are victims suffering and dying here.
Gush, really? I read the tone as rather matter of fact with a healthy dose of curiosity.
@lugh - I think this is very different from North Korea tourism, for instance. North Korea tourism by definition involves a large direct economic transfer to the Kim regime. The visa fees, tour fees, etc. are all propping up a despotic dictatorship, and the country also gets propaganda from the media created by tourists.
This visit seems very different. Not only did Ben spend close to $0 in the zone, I don't think that...
@lugh - I think this is very different from North Korea tourism, for instance. North Korea tourism by definition involves a large direct economic transfer to the Kim regime. The visa fees, tour fees, etc. are all propping up a despotic dictatorship, and the country also gets propaganda from the media created by tourists.
This visit seems very different. Not only did Ben spend close to $0 in the zone, I don't think that this media is useful at all for propaganda purposes. He's not helping the zone or the immoral ownership. Just my 2c.
@Cam he actually paid for four 5$ drip coffees. He is officialy a Golden Triangle Special Economy Zone contributor!
Please go clutch your pearls elsewhere. Your self-righteousness indignation is lame and boring.
Perhaps Ben, when you "visit" a place, you do some research ahead of time, not just finding out the thread count of the sheets at the 5 star hotel, and what type of upgrade you can get, as you take the Merceds SUV from Chaing Rai to the Golden Triangle (and totally miss ANY connection with the local population, culture or food) .... this goes back to time previous post, where you seem so detached...
Perhaps Ben, when you "visit" a place, you do some research ahead of time, not just finding out the thread count of the sheets at the 5 star hotel, and what type of upgrade you can get, as you take the Merceds SUV from Chaing Rai to the Golden Triangle (and totally miss ANY connection with the local population, culture or food) .... this goes back to time previous post, where you seem so detached from most of the places you "visit", cocooned in 5 star hotels and First Class. I mean, staying at the Four Seasons in the Golden Triangle is like staying at a 5 star hotel in Machu Picchu and never visiting the site. The convergence of the 3 countries there has a long history..... Also, Lao is heavily influenced by the PRC and Chinese business and money (both legit and illicit). It is no secret that the PRC financed and built the Lao high speed rail project to spread influence further into Lao. None of this should be a surprise.... The fact that you went over to Lao, only to go visit a make believe money laundering and illicit trade zone, while not actually visiting Lao is another example of your detachment from most of the places you "visit"