I can’t say Iraq has ever been near the top of my travel bucket list, though I’m oddly tempted…
In this post:
The intriguing Hyatt Regency Erbil
While browsing FlyerTalk, I noticed a thread about the new(ish) Hyatt Regency Erbil Residences. Huh, there’s a Hyatt Regency in Erbil? Truth be told, it looks really nice, and isn’t even a year old. As you may have guessed based on the “residences” in the name, the hotel consists exclusively of residential-style suites. This is one of the few international hotel brands in Erbil, as there’s otherwise just the Ramada by Wyndham, so it sets a new standard for luxury in the city.
Now, it goes without saying that you shouldn’t travel to Iraq just to stay at a Hyatt Regency… I could just drive down the road and stay at one. But given that I write a travel blog with a focus on miles & points, often my destinations are motivated by visiting certain hotels, and it’s the icing on the cake if the destination is worth visiting as well. This seems to check both of those boxes.
I’m honestly very tempted to plan a trip to Erbil. It’s quite easy to get there, as you can fly anything from Austrian, to Emirates, to Lufthansa, to Qatar, to Royal Jordanian, to Turkish. Then there’s Iraqi Airways, which has new Airbus A220s, and will soon be getting Boeing 787s!
Any tips for visiting Erbil?
That brings me to my main question — how interesting is Erbil to visit? A couple of thoughts…
First of all, I generally detest asking if a destination is “safe,” when mass shootings are a daily occurrence in the United States. My initial research suggests that Erbil is reasonably safe, though if anyone has any recent experiences or educated opinions, I’d certainly welcome them.
The other question is how interesting Erbil is — how long would you spend there, and is there anywhere else in the country you’d absolutely visit? Everything I’ve seen so far suggests there’s quite a bit to see in Erbil, and that it’s quite a cosmopolitan city with lots of sites.
I know Iraq isn’t a “conventional” tourist destination, though personally I love visiting places that are a bit off the beaten path. The less I can imagine what day-to-day life is like for people in a particular city, the more I have a desire to visit. On top of that, Iraq obviously has fascinating history, which I’d love to learn more about.
Bottom line
I didn’t wake up this morning thinking that I had much desire to visit Iraq anytime soon, but now I kind of do. Not only does Erbil have a new Hyatt Regency, but the city also looks like it’s worth a visit. The only thing that might delay my trip a bit is perhaps waiting for Iraqi Airways to take delivery of its Boeing 787, as that would make the avgeek portion of the trip much more exciting.
Have any OMAAT readers been to Erbil? Do you vote yay or nay on this trip?
Looks like this is now a Radisson now. Not sure what happened given it just opened in 2022.
First of all, I would recommend acknowledging in both your title and description that you're considering visiting Erbil, capital of the Kurdistan Region, rather than just "Iraq". This would be more representative especially to the Kurds who have suffered under Iraq's past and present regimes. Erbil and Kurdistan has a diverse geography and many things to experience and see other than an overpriced hotel.
Just go. Stop letting A******* prejudice stop you.
As your more enlightened and educated readers have already indicated, Erbil is a fabulous destination. Though keep in mind it's technically not Iraq - it's Iraqi Kurdistan. I'd highly recommend incorporating a visit to Federal Iraq also and spending some time in Baghdad with at a minimum an excursion to Samarra. I visited in December of 2021. Out gay guy with a female friend in tow - not a single issue. Typical knock-your-socks-off hospitality and...
As your more enlightened and educated readers have already indicated, Erbil is a fabulous destination. Though keep in mind it's technically not Iraq - it's Iraqi Kurdistan. I'd highly recommend incorporating a visit to Federal Iraq also and spending some time in Baghdad with at a minimum an excursion to Samarra. I visited in December of 2021. Out gay guy with a female friend in tow - not a single issue. Typical knock-your-socks-off hospitality and friendliness of locals found in much of the Middle East. Like in many "dangerous" regions of the world, your greatest safety risk comes from vehicular accidents (versus getting shot in many cities in the US). Happy to give more trip notes if you'd like.
It's still Iraq though.
Why? I think it may be an interesting review but not useful for most people. It is not a destination that most people would consider. I thought this blog would cater to the majority.
I visited Erbil for work around 2012/13 it’s a beautiful very vibrant and friendly people. Citadel is a must visit and the road to Sulaimaniya is amazing, you will be welcomed with amazing views as you zigzagging through the green land.
The BBQ fish is to die for.
Enjoy the trip
I am from Iraq and currently live between Erbil and Mosul,
Erbil is very safe city also Mosul, I am working with international company and I have many friends from Europe who live in Erbil and Mosul by themselves, they are very welcomed in the community here, and they are spending great and amazing times,
In Ramadan Mosul has a different vibe than all Iraq very interesting stuff ar there,
I can provide...
I am from Iraq and currently live between Erbil and Mosul,
Erbil is very safe city also Mosul, I am working with international company and I have many friends from Europe who live in Erbil and Mosul by themselves, they are very welcomed in the community here, and they are spending great and amazing times,
In Ramadan Mosul has a different vibe than all Iraq very interesting stuff ar there,
I can provide you or anyone else an advice on any questions they have to be able to visit Iraq.
I want to Erbil last year. Great city. Really friendly people and a lot of great food and history.
I’ve lived in Erbil and Sulaimani, and if you don’t have local friend or someone to host you and show you the culture be traditions, I don’t think it’s worth the trip. The Hyatt is just another hotel and sticks out like a sore thumb, even in a quickly developing city. There is not the kind of tourist infrastructure you can get in other middle eastern cities. The food can be great. But it can...
I’ve lived in Erbil and Sulaimani, and if you don’t have local friend or someone to host you and show you the culture be traditions, I don’t think it’s worth the trip. The Hyatt is just another hotel and sticks out like a sore thumb, even in a quickly developing city. There is not the kind of tourist infrastructure you can get in other middle eastern cities. The food can be great. But it can also be terrible. You could find a travel agency that helps you book expensive private tours, but you are not really getting even an artificial sense of the city or culture. I think the main benefit is just being able to say you visited Iraq or more precisely Iraqi Kurdistan.
I think you should visit Mosul, Baghdad, Babel and Basra.
Ben, veteran travel presenter Michael Palin did a 3 part series on visiting Iraq, including Erbil:
https://www.themichaelpalin.com/into-iraq/
Its convinced me to investigate going (although I'm sure I couldn't afford his security detail - referring to other parts of the country he went to).
Hi! I was in Erbil in October 2021 and again at the start of 2022. I am a 23 y/o solo-female traveler. I had a great time in Erbil -- I found the people warm, the cuisine great, and the nature/sites to see outstanding. I successfully hitchhiked throughout South Kurdistan and visited Slemani, Duhok, and Lalish as well. I also spent a few months traveling through Federal Iraq as well, visiting each city from Mosul...
Hi! I was in Erbil in October 2021 and again at the start of 2022. I am a 23 y/o solo-female traveler. I had a great time in Erbil -- I found the people warm, the cuisine great, and the nature/sites to see outstanding. I successfully hitchhiked throughout South Kurdistan and visited Slemani, Duhok, and Lalish as well. I also spent a few months traveling through Federal Iraq as well, visiting each city from Mosul in the north to Basra in the South. I had a great experience and did not have any major safety issues during my travels. I filmed a 12-episode travel series; you're welcome to watch the trailer linked below. I am happy to chat with potential travelers about my time in Iraq and share the best practices I learned. Traveling there isn't simple, but it is rewarding.
Here's the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7fJivS75bM.
Visit historical shrines in NJF and Karbala and Koofa and also ruins of Babylon. Iraq's 2nd biggest industry (after oil export) is tourism. 30-50mil yearly visitors.
Connect one of many US / CA / UK tour operaters (for pilgrimage) or ask for Airport to airport services from baron hotel karbala. Good luck.
Let me know if you have any follow up.
Yes! You absolutely should visit. We’ve lived here for years and Erbil is easily safer than any major city in the US and is a very up-and-coming city in the Middle East. There’s tons to do (nature, history, adventure) outside the city if you have more than a couple days. The Hyatt is right near one of the largest parks in the Middle East, which used to be an old military base of Saddam (and...
Yes! You absolutely should visit. We’ve lived here for years and Erbil is easily safer than any major city in the US and is a very up-and-coming city in the Middle East. There’s tons to do (nature, history, adventure) outside the city if you have more than a couple days. The Hyatt is right near one of the largest parks in the Middle East, which used to be an old military base of Saddam (and the Kurds turned it into a stunning park).
Please let me know if you visit and we’d love to grab coffee or lunch. Or write me if you have specific questions. Would love to repay you all the travel advice through the years!
2022: I flew Sun Express non-stop from Antalya. It was around $150 roundtrip.
There's an airport taxi monopoly. I didn't want to pay them $30 so I walked off the airport.
There are a lot of interesting gaudy mansions in Erbil.
You'll see several of those in the neighborhoods surrounding the airport.
I stayed in a high rise Airbnb about a 10 minute walk from the Hyatt.
I feel this is something Matt Klint would do with you. But he may have already been to Erbil.
You should deffo go, but only if you travel on Iraq Airways! It's been a while since we had some less usual airline reviews.
Although I would love the review, you are a Father now .........
He’s a father, a gay husband, very noticiably homosexual. A westerner. He’s gonna have a target on his back. He shouldn’t go to -iraq- because erbil is still part of iraq.
Lucky, I visited Erbil for a week on personal travel and stayed at the Hyatt. It was an excellent hotel and the staff was probably the best of any Hyatt I had ever stayed at. They upgraded me to a premium suite and picked me up at the airport for free as well, YMMV of course. Restaurant and breakfast were excellent as well.
Erbil is a very safe city, with extremely friendly people, and...
Lucky, I visited Erbil for a week on personal travel and stayed at the Hyatt. It was an excellent hotel and the staff was probably the best of any Hyatt I had ever stayed at. They upgraded me to a premium suite and picked me up at the airport for free as well, YMMV of course. Restaurant and breakfast were excellent as well.
Erbil is a very safe city, with extremely friendly people, and I was perfectly fine walking around at night. That said, there's not that much to see in Erbil proper (maybe 1 day, 2 max). I strongly suggest a guide, then you can leave the city and see the wonderful sights the Kurdistan Region has to offer (mostly outside of the cities). I am happy to offer my itinerary and answer further questions, just let me know.
Go for it! Friendly people, lots of history, great food. Yes, there are danger and "bad guys" everywhere. There's also hundreds of thousands of people living daily lives. Let me know if you need a travel buddy!
Unless you want a hair raising roller coaster arrival I'd stay clear of Austrian in Erbil
Erbil is among the most exciting and popular business and leisure destinations in the Middle East. Think, a weird mix of Istanbul-Beirut-Dubai-USA-Iraq, all one one place. Nightlife is fascinating, restaurants are world-class, shopping is excellent (from grand malls to ancient bazaars), and the nature and historical sites are second-to-none for the region. Lots of Christian sites, too, and a large native Christian population. Very pro-American culture and place. By the way, it’s always full of...
Erbil is among the most exciting and popular business and leisure destinations in the Middle East. Think, a weird mix of Istanbul-Beirut-Dubai-USA-Iraq, all one one place. Nightlife is fascinating, restaurants are world-class, shopping is excellent (from grand malls to ancient bazaars), and the nature and historical sites are second-to-none for the region. Lots of Christian sites, too, and a large native Christian population. Very pro-American culture and place. By the way, it’s always full of tourists, and the city has a HUGE foreign population from across the world.
You should absolutely go. Erbil, Dohuk and Sulaimanya would change your life. It's not even an exaggeration
Ghe person are so kind, the food is amazing. Generally there's such positive vibes to the place that makes you hooked on to it
But do they have avocado toast in Erbil?
Hello Ben,
As you are now a father I think you should err on the side of caution. Perhaps it is "safe" but ....
First of all, I generally detest asking if a destination is “safe,” when mass shootings are a daily occurrence in the United States.......
You live in Miami, just about everywhere else in the world is safer....
I suggest you ask the person who have actually been to Erbil rather than fear mongers.
Erbil is beautiful, safe, affordable and no it does not effect your travel status.
Stay at least 2 weeks and explore the northern nature rather than staying the whole time in the city.
Highly recommend villages: Amedi, Barzan, Choman
Exchange money when in erbil already as there are no commissions and the rate is as close as it gets...
I suggest you ask the person who have actually been to Erbil rather than fear mongers.
Erbil is beautiful, safe, affordable and no it does not effect your travel status.
Stay at least 2 weeks and explore the northern nature rather than staying the whole time in the city.
Highly recommend villages: Amedi, Barzan, Choman
Exchange money when in erbil already as there are no commissions and the rate is as close as it gets to the Central Bank markup
Travel light and join Facebook groups Iraqi Travelers club it will be handy
Mass shooting is absolutely not a daily occurrence in the U.S.
Any proof that it is?
AHMAD
https://www.gunviolencearchive.org/reports/mass-shooting
Not exactly every day, but averaged it’s even more than a day
“Not actually everyday”. You said it.
Obviously, Ben is joking. I hope. For everyone saying it won’t hurt your global entry, it may not but if it does good luck fixing that…
He has two passports. He would be using his German passport anyway
I can't speak about Erbil but we just left Baghdad. Walked all around town for four days. For context, we are middle aged white couple. Felt safe, but like celebrities. Locals always coming up to say hello, ask where we are from and practice what English they know. Great experience.
Hi Ben,
Yes, you can do it. As you probably already researched: Erbil is excluded from the general “absolutely do not travel to Iraq” travel advisories (at least according to the Auswärtiges Amt) and seems to be relatively safe. It’s more like in the group “do you really have to go there” countries, like so many other countries.
While I have not been there personally, a friend of mine went there for a...
Hi Ben,
Yes, you can do it. As you probably already researched: Erbil is excluded from the general “absolutely do not travel to Iraq” travel advisories (at least according to the Auswärtiges Amt) and seems to be relatively safe. It’s more like in the group “do you really have to go there” countries, like so many other countries.
While I have not been there personally, a friend of mine went there for a concert last year. He was fascinated and loved it. And no, he did not have armed escorts.
You might need to verify the Covid test requirements.
There are quite some German tour operators offering organized travel to Kurdistan / Erbil if you google “Rundreise Erbil”.
If you really want to visit the region (without Miles? Without Ford? Without Winston?), you will probably need more than a week. But for just getting a glimpse of Erbil, a night or two should be enough: Bazaar, Citadel, Jewish quarter.
Actually, I also wanted to go to Erbil for sightseeing since many years but so far decided against it, because my family and friends would ask too many questions.So I am waiting until I have to go there for work.
From the blogging perspective and trying new airlines: Somaliland (which is in Somalia but is autonomous) would be interesting. But yes, it needs to be much more well organized and you would actually need guards.
Seems like a good way to lose one’s global entry status
Why?
I have global entry with my German passport even though I been to many “interesting” countries, e.g. Iran, Russia,…
All I got was an interview in Israel after visiting Iran - but only once. The past times, I was not at all questioned when entering it exiting Israel.
Perhaps a follow up interview is in order....
No follow-up Interview in order. I even got Global after I first visited Iran in 2012 or so.
Besides, Ben has a German and an American passport. Additionally, in Germany you can apply for up to 10 passports (with different numbers) in case you need them (e.g. when applying for a visa my passport is often at the embassy for a couple of weeks.).
That's not true. I've been to Iraq and no other country even bothered to ask me about it. Entry has been so far smooth in most EU countries, the US, UK, Thailand, Australia, Mexico and the list goes on
This is simply not true I had no issue
I went to Iran as a US citizen in 2017 and was never even asked about it. By any country....
Don't
I was wincing coming to the comments but I see there are some very knowledgeable people here who actually know a world exists outside of their own. Bravo!
Yes. You’ll need a tour guide during your stay to meet you at the airport , take you to your hotel , and take you out on some daily excursions. Go for it Ben !
I don’t know the specifics of Erbil so I’ll leave that to other commenters, but on a practical note: many travel insurances have specific exclusions when you choose to travel to a place with Level 4 Do Not Travel advisory. Consular support will also be limited.
There's a huge US Consulate in Erbil. I believe it's the largest in the world. And a very sizable German diplomatic presence.
Just be safe, Ben. Iraq, especially the north has a lot of issues going on with the kurds fighting/in-fighting.
Don't announce your travel dates or you may be a juicy target.
I'd personally visit the south and stay away from parts with big kurdush populations given the troubles
There's been no fighting in Erbil since the 90s.
He already did if he sent that letter. BEN, DO NOT SEND SUCH A LETTER !!
Call me an old fart. I am 74 years old, have travelled in over 100 countries, many of them unsavory at the time (Llberia and Rwanda in the middle of their civil wars are good examples), and owe my life to basic precautions which are mostly common sense. The advantages of announcing your arrival in dangerous countries are far...
He already did if he sent that letter. BEN, DO NOT SEND SUCH A LETTER !!
Call me an old fart. I am 74 years old, have travelled in over 100 countries, many of them unsavory at the time (Llberia and Rwanda in the middle of their civil wars are good examples), and owe my life to basic precautions which are mostly common sense. The advantages of announcing your arrival in dangerous countries are far outweighted by the risks. You do not know who will read the letter, probably 10 people before the ministef.
Unless you bring your own military escort, you keep a low profile, that is if you absolutely have to go, which is not the case.
It is safer to go to Iraq than Chicago or San Francisco.
@Santastico
Facts
Murder rates consistently higher in Red states, year over year. Actual facts.
https://www.axios.com/2023/01/27/murder-rate-high-trump-republican-states
Axios? Good one.
Equating a source like Axios with a "source" like Heritage? Now THAT is funny.
@UA-NYC
"Murder rates consistently higher in Red states, year over year. Actual facts."
Those are usually due to urban / metro areas in those states that are run by democrats.
@UA-NYC
But not overall crime rates. Dem run cities are crime ridden.
https://www.heritage.org/crime-and-justice/report/the-blue-city-murder-problem
heritage.org? Good one.
I flew out of Irbil last year. I loved my few days there waiting to transit out. As others have said, Kurds are proAmerican, not religious extremists and it is beautiful. The airport is very new and there is good coffee everywhere. There are intermittent rocket attacks outside of the city but they are targeted and were not hitting civilian areas (at least not during my time in the region). While there are more exotic...
I flew out of Irbil last year. I loved my few days there waiting to transit out. As others have said, Kurds are proAmerican, not religious extremists and it is beautiful. The airport is very new and there is good coffee everywhere. There are intermittent rocket attacks outside of the city but they are targeted and were not hitting civilian areas (at least not during my time in the region). While there are more exotic carriers available, I flew out on OS which alternated with LH for routes direct to the EU.
If I lived in Erbil, I'd start a pet store named Erbil's Gerbils.
It's pronounced "Arr-beel" or "Air-beel".
So let's revise that to "Erbil's Hot Wheels", the tire store.
Erbil is great. It's an independent region of Iraq so it's definitely not your stereotypical Iraq. The people are known for their generous hospitality and this applies to the very welcoming immigration officers at the airport as well as security personnel around the city. There are many foreigners from all over the world these days - European and American resident expats that work in other parts of Iraq; large numbers of Syrians, Russians and Ukrainians...
Erbil is great. It's an independent region of Iraq so it's definitely not your stereotypical Iraq. The people are known for their generous hospitality and this applies to the very welcoming immigration officers at the airport as well as security personnel around the city. There are many foreigners from all over the world these days - European and American resident expats that work in other parts of Iraq; large numbers of Syrians, Russians and Ukrainians fleeing wars in their countries; and many Turkish, Iranian, Egyptian and Lebanese businesses escaping the economic crises in their countries. All of this, in addition to oil-rich Iraqi tourism from the rest of the country, makes Erbil a nice destination with a variety of high-end but relatively cheap restaurants, American-style bars (sports bars, speakeasies, and dive bars) and European-style clubs (multi floors with different dance rooms and a good ratio of men to women!). There's also a thriving underground gay scene (Playboy wrote a good article about it a few years ago). The surrounding hills and mountains are great to explore too in the spring and early winter but I would definitely get an established tour guide for that like Bilweekend (find them on Instagram) as it's easy to get lost in those parts outside the city. The airport is relatively small (and houses a large US military base so don't be surprised to see Apaches taking off to Syria from there!). Uber/Careem is super cheap and easy to get around with the app, and all drivers are vetted by the internal security service.
You're going to get SSSS'ed on your 20 trips after coming back
Nope. Tourism in Iraq is common now. Travel there won't even invalidate the ability to receive an American ESTA visa waiver for VWP citizens who visit the US.
From the US ESTA website:
When can’t I use the VWP (ESTA) and need a visa?
Due to personal circumstances:
you traveled to certain countries (Iran, Iraq, Sudan, Syria, Libya, Somalia, and Yemen on or after March 1, 2011),
This is just untrue, see: https://nl.usembassy.gov/visas/visa-waiver-program/
When can’t I use the VWP (ESTA) and need a visa?
Due to personal circumstances:
you traveled to certain countries (Iran, Iraq, Sudan, Syria, Libya, Somalia, and Yemen on or after March 1, 2011),
There is officially not even a term limit, so visiting after 2011 will just screw you. Now this rule is incredibly confusing, since most times I enter the US the officer wants to enter...
This is just untrue, see: https://nl.usembassy.gov/visas/visa-waiver-program/
When can’t I use the VWP (ESTA) and need a visa?
Due to personal circumstances:
you traveled to certain countries (Iran, Iraq, Sudan, Syria, Libya, Somalia, and Yemen on or after March 1, 2011),
There is officially not even a term limit, so visiting after 2011 will just screw you. Now this rule is incredibly confusing, since most times I enter the US the officer wants to enter me under ESTA / visa waiver and I have to explain why I have a visum with an EU passport.
But during ESTA application you will be asked about the countries you visited, so it might not be great advice to people to not list Iraq...
Most Mass shootings in the US are Gang/Drug related. They don't get mentioned on the news, because no one cares about gang bangers and dealers getting killed. I think you would be safer in that part if Iraq than you would be in certain parts of Chicago, NYC LA etc.
Dont let facts get in the way of a good narrative.
Kurdish culture is amazing! I have heard from multiple friends that Erbil is the safest city in Iraq, and even safer than neighbouring major cities like Tehran or Beirut... I would say you SHOULD go!
I went alone to Kurdish Iraq in the thick of the Islamic State invasion (just 50 miles away) years ago, and it was fun. I've since revisited every summer since then except for 2020. The first visit, I entered by bus from Diyarbakir, Turkey to Zakho, Iraq, took a taxi to Sulaymaniyah, Kirkuk (when the Kurds still controlled it), and Halabja. Kurds are super pro-American. Security is wonderful - the Peshmerga and Asayish will take...
I went alone to Kurdish Iraq in the thick of the Islamic State invasion (just 50 miles away) years ago, and it was fun. I've since revisited every summer since then except for 2020. The first visit, I entered by bus from Diyarbakir, Turkey to Zakho, Iraq, took a taxi to Sulaymaniyah, Kirkuk (when the Kurds still controlled it), and Halabja. Kurds are super pro-American. Security is wonderful - the Peshmerga and Asayish will take care of you. Lalish and Mosul are wonderful in the north. Baghdad, Najaf, Samara, Nasiriyah, the marshes, Uruk, and Basra are all completely safe to walk around in shorts as a skinny, American tourist taking pictures with an obnoxiously large camera. You will be feted as an American and begged to attend afternoon tea and mountaintop hangouts nonstop. Photo ops with you are numerous too. The US invasion is viewed rather positively, especially in the Shiite and Kurdish parts, as they are now free to express themselves, which was for idden under Saddam. The scariest cities/countries in the world (I've been to 187 countries) are all in America (Portland, Seattle, San Francisco, Los Angeles) and Central/East Africa (Mogadishu, Chad, Mali, Niger, Central African Republic, Congo-Kinshasha, Mozambique, South Sudan, Darfur, stalker-heavy Egypt). I'd rather live the rest of my life in Baghdad than spend another second in Los Angeles. I got a license to carry a gun where I live in Michigan solely for travel to California.
Oh, I forgot to mention you should definitely visit Duhok and Akre in Iraqi Kurdistan. I honestly abhor Erbil. It has been supersaturated with Westerners for almost 20 years now, and you will feel like you never left America/Western Europe. Sulaymaniyah is getting that way too. Also, Iraqi Kurdistan operates as its own country from the south. If you visit the north first, then you must apply for a second visa on arrival in federal...
Oh, I forgot to mention you should definitely visit Duhok and Akre in Iraqi Kurdistan. I honestly abhor Erbil. It has been supersaturated with Westerners for almost 20 years now, and you will feel like you never left America/Western Europe. Sulaymaniyah is getting that way too. Also, Iraqi Kurdistan operates as its own country from the south. If you visit the north first, then you must apply for a second visa on arrival in federal Iraq (available for ~$100 at Baghdad, Najaf, Basra airports).
I was in Erbil in 2016 and agree that it was rather too cosmopolitan for my taste. I was in Sulaymaniyah in the summer of 2021, and it felt much more authentic.
But the problem in Erbil is not just all the Westerners, but also all the new Arabs.
Erbil has several incredible sites that are worth visiting -- first and foremost, the citadel, the oldest continuously inhabited settlement on earth -- essentially an acropolis with many ruins, but also several inhabited structures. Of particular interest on the citadel (right on its edge overlooking the square at its bottom) should be the Kurdish Textile Museum, a privately owned museum of the local Kurdish rugs ('kilims') and how they are made, inclusive of live weaving...
Erbil has several incredible sites that are worth visiting -- first and foremost, the citadel, the oldest continuously inhabited settlement on earth -- essentially an acropolis with many ruins, but also several inhabited structures. Of particular interest on the citadel (right on its edge overlooking the square at its bottom) should be the Kurdish Textile Museum, a privately owned museum of the local Kurdish rugs ('kilims') and how they are made, inclusive of live weaving demonstrations. The square at the bottom of the citadel is buzzing with activity in the evenings, surrounded by tea houses and shisha bars. And the bazaar, with its maze of vendors, should be on anyone's list.
Going to Iraq is going to make it a lot harder for your to travel to other countries. Don't go.
@John
How so ?
That is not correct. I've been to Erbil in 2018 and earlier this year and never had any issue whatsoever travelling anywhere else (I need to get a visa for the US and I could no longer enter on an ESTA, but I never had any issues at the US border)
There are plenty of reasons to want to visit Iraq, but traveling to Erbil to stay in a big box hotel is probably the dumbest one I can think of.
Agreed. I'm glad someone took the chance to tell him.
You must not go to Erbil without careful planning which must include contact with a strong, well placed sponsor. If you do not you are inviting peril. Expect to pay for services that are essential for safety. Mosul is 1 1/2 hour drive. Antiquity abounds but severely damaged by ISIS.
"First of all, I generally detest asking if a destination is “safe,” when mass shootings are a daily occurrence in the United States. "
Simply LOL
There AREN'T mass shootings on a nearly daily basis in the US? The data available to all of us says otherwise.
Well, you're probably safer there amongst the Kurds than anywhere else in Iraq, although to be fair if I were to stay away from anything in Iraq it would, quite frankly, be anything American, like the Green Zone in Baghdad. Kurds are social hippies compared to the rest of the Dar al-Islam, you're probably safer there than you would be in St Louis.
Consider getting a second blue passport though, if you've been to Israel....
Well, you're probably safer there amongst the Kurds than anywhere else in Iraq, although to be fair if I were to stay away from anything in Iraq it would, quite frankly, be anything American, like the Green Zone in Baghdad. Kurds are social hippies compared to the rest of the Dar al-Islam, you're probably safer there than you would be in St Louis.
Consider getting a second blue passport though, if you've been to Israel. State Dept lets people do that to prevent harassment.
No thanks! They drive their cars backward (0:52 of video). Too dangerous.
Hahaha
If feel more comfortable if I reached out to the Kurdish Minsitry of Tourism. I asked GPT4 the following:
“Write a letter from Ben schlapig to the Kurdish ministry of tourism regarding a trip to check out the hyatt in Erbil ”
It responded as follows:
[Ben Schlappig's Address]
[City, State, ZIP]
[Email Address]
[Phone Number]
April 12, 2023
Kurdish Ministry of Tourism
[Ministry's Address]
Erbil, Kurdistan Region
...
If feel more comfortable if I reached out to the Kurdish Minsitry of Tourism. I asked GPT4 the following:
“Write a letter from Ben schlapig to the Kurdish ministry of tourism regarding a trip to check out the hyatt in Erbil ”
It responded as follows:
[Ben Schlappig's Address]
[City, State, ZIP]
[Email Address]
[Phone Number]
April 12, 2023
Kurdish Ministry of Tourism
[Ministry's Address]
Erbil, Kurdistan Region
Iraq
Dear Sir/Madam,
Subject: Request for Information and Assistance for a Trip to Erbil
I hope this letter finds you well. My name is Ben Schlappig, and I am the founder and editor of One Mile at a Time, an award-winning travel blog that shares insights, reviews, and travel experiences with a global audience.
I am writing to express my interest in visiting the Kurdistan Region of Iraq, specifically Erbil, to explore its vibrant culture, rich history, and burgeoning tourism industry. I am particularly excited to review the Hyatt hotel in Erbil, a property that has received considerable attention within the travel community.
My trip to Erbil would involve a comprehensive review of the Hyatt property, including accommodations, dining options, and available amenities, as well as an exploration of the local attractions and sites that make the city unique. I believe that such a review would provide valuable exposure for the Kurdistan Region, showcasing its hospitality sector and encouraging more travelers to consider Erbil as a destination.
In order to ensure that I can provide the most accurate and informative content for my readers, I kindly request your assistance with the following:
Information on the current visa and entry requirements for U.S. citizens traveling to the Kurdistan Region of Iraq.
Recommendations for local tour guides, transportation services, and culturally immersive experiences that will enable me to gain a deeper understanding of the region.
Any additional tips, guidelines, or precautions that should be considered while planning a trip to Erbil.
Assistance in coordinating with the Hyatt Erbil for a possible stay and property review.
I truly appreciate your time and consideration, and I look forward to the possibility of visiting the beautiful city of Erbil and showcasing its many wonders to my readers. Should you require any further information, please do not hesitate to contact me at [Email Address] or [Phone Number].
Thank you for your attention, and I hope to hear from you soon.
Sincerely,
Ben Schlappig
Founder and Editor, One Mile at a Time
Formatting is a little off when I cut and paste.
I'm sure that will result in a completely unbiased review and a unique traveler perspective, lol. As well would ID Ben in other ways that might not be the best as to how he might portray the region. If I got this, worked for the Ministry of Tourism (if they have one) I would look at his profile and make one of two choices, make sure he is "escorted" everywhere to assure a "proper" view...
I'm sure that will result in a completely unbiased review and a unique traveler perspective, lol. As well would ID Ben in other ways that might not be the best as to how he might portray the region. If I got this, worked for the Ministry of Tourism (if they have one) I would look at his profile and make one of two choices, make sure he is "escorted" everywhere to assure a "proper" view of the area and thus framed to their narrative OR make sure he never sets foot in Erbil now or in the future.
This is funny though!
Every place is far safer than anyone tells you. People love to report drama. Travelers love to report hardship. It make a story more interesting. It makes them seen more interesting. But the reality is usually far less. Every "dangerous" place I have ever been has usually been a complete opposite as to the reality. The build up was the only anxious part.
I honestly feel that the most dangerous places in the world...
Every place is far safer than anyone tells you. People love to report drama. Travelers love to report hardship. It make a story more interesting. It makes them seen more interesting. But the reality is usually far less. Every "dangerous" place I have ever been has usually been a complete opposite as to the reality. The build up was the only anxious part.
I honestly feel that the most dangerous places in the world are the ones deemed safe where you tend to let your guard down and be oblivious. Why I guess the only incident I have had in over 100 countries around the world has been in Switzerland.
Its safe and modern. Erbil itself is fine for a day or two (main Citadel Bazaar area), but the real sights to see are the mountains etc outdoors (e.g. Rawanduz Canyon and other mountain regions upnorth, or an overnight trip to Sulemaniya etc).
Search Karwan Wahed on tripadvisor and read the excellent reviews he gets and book him as a guide (if he's not available he should be able to refer you to someone he trusts and knows)
Karwan was excellent. Great ambassador for the region.
I'd love to go with you. I used to work in Iraq for five years during the Saddam era. The problem is that I'll lose the ESTA status if I go. My neighbour is originally from Erbil, and visits there twice a year, it is totally safe.
You have a child now. Stay home and stay safe. IMHO
I do not know how to say it in less than 8 words:
American, Jewish and Gay.... You are raving mad.
If I remember well, you were also invited in Nigeria by someone who offered to facilitate your trip and guide you, and you considered accepting.
Diagnosis confirmed and/or you have a strong death wish.
There is hope, though: You never went to Nigeria. That would have made your TAAG experience feel like Cathay's Pier in Hong Kong.
Iraqi Kurds love America and Americans. It's probably the one place in the whole Middle East where America is viewed most favorably.
Palin's trip would have been months in the planning, and I have no doubt that he and his crew were accompanied by armed security the whole way. I wouldn't set foot in Iraq without the same precautions. The risk of violence and kidnap is still very real, even in Erbil.
I'll wager that a trip to Iraq will buy you a long visit to secondary inspection on return to the US, as ICE; and possibly...
Palin's trip would have been months in the planning, and I have no doubt that he and his crew were accompanied by armed security the whole way. I wouldn't set foot in Iraq without the same precautions. The risk of violence and kidnap is still very real, even in Erbil.
I'll wager that a trip to Iraq will buy you a long visit to secondary inspection on return to the US, as ICE; and possibly ybr FBI; will undoubtedly have many questions they want you to answer. I doubt that Global Entry will get you out of that.
There's also the issue of having an Iraqi visa in your passport, which is something that many other countries will not look upon fondly.
Then there's also the official State Department advice to stay the hell away from the place.
It would be a fascinating trip, and I'd love to read the reports, but at this point in history it might not be a wise choice.
I guess you could always enter Iraq on your German passport, but that may cause issues the next time you wish to enter Europe.
What about just asking a new passport once you back in the US?
An Iraqi visa is not necessary if you just visit the Kurdistan region. I have never had any problems whatsoever travelling with Iraqi stamps in my (european) passport
Pete, you probably should have read the part in the post where Ben asks if any OMAAT readers have been to Erbil to mean "I should offer my opinion if I have informed advice to offer".
Not as "I should offer ill-informed nonsensical rhetoric for the sake of hearing myself talk".
Michael Pailin from Monty Python just did a series on Iraq. He traveled from the border with Türkiye all the way down to the marshes in the Persian Gulf. I can’t remember what f he visited Erbil. If you go to the UK broadcaster Channel 5 you can stream the show. Probably need a VPN though.
As one of the countries that requires a visa to visit the US, for me the most of my concern is not the safety but the likelihood of my future US visa getting declined. One of the questions on the US visa application is if you have visited Iraq.
I spent some time in Erbil back in 2014-15 shortly after the fall of Mosul. It was very different to the rest of Iraq - in fact, it felt more Turkish rather. Despite the obvious tensions, there was a quiet determination among the population to keep things as normal as possible. I was particularly impressed by the decent restaurants there (plus the knock-off western brands like "Costa (Rica) Coffee"), and spent a couple of surreal...
I spent some time in Erbil back in 2014-15 shortly after the fall of Mosul. It was very different to the rest of Iraq - in fact, it felt more Turkish rather. Despite the obvious tensions, there was a quiet determination among the population to keep things as normal as possible. I was particularly impressed by the decent restaurants there (plus the knock-off western brands like "Costa (Rica) Coffee"), and spent a couple of surreal evenings at the Deutscher Hof Erbil beer garden in Ainkawa. This was definitely nothing like Basra!
Slightly less positive memory from that trip was the sound of artillery and random tracer rounds lighting up the sky from the direction of Mosul every night, and the memory of directions to "Mosul" painted over in mismatched green paint on every street sign. And listening to my (American) colleague tell the story (and share the mobile phone video) of his very narrow escape from Mosul in the bed of a pickup truck filled with manure. He was the lucky one because we lost two of our other local contractors that morning when ISIS took over the city.
This was also the trip on which I had the most flight disruptions on a single itinerary. Originally booked on Emirates from Dubai, but they cancelled the flight two days out and rebooked me on FlyDubai who also suspended all operations on the route just the night before my departure. Managed to rebook on Air Arabia from Sharjah and wound up arriving in Erbil on the final flight before they too suspended all flights. On the way back, I was booked on Qatar Airways who wound up also (there may be a pattern developing here) suspending flights while I was in Erbil. I eventually had a choice of Turkish from Suleimaniyah or paying an extortionate $1000+ walkup fare on Royal Jordanian to Amman - which is what I decided to do. Don't quote me because it was like a 3am departure, but I vaguely recall that there was even a DNATA operated Priority Pass lounge at the airport.
As others mentioned, Erbil and really all of Kurdistan in Iraq is very safe and easy to travel around. Even for someone who has traveled to mostly "safe" and "1st world" places, Iraqi-Kurdistan is not the crazy trip you may think it is. It's an incredibly beautiful place to visit, and I would strongly suggest traveling around and not just staying in Erbil, which you can really see in a day or two. You'll be...
As others mentioned, Erbil and really all of Kurdistan in Iraq is very safe and easy to travel around. Even for someone who has traveled to mostly "safe" and "1st world" places, Iraqi-Kurdistan is not the crazy trip you may think it is. It's an incredibly beautiful place to visit, and I would strongly suggest traveling around and not just staying in Erbil, which you can really see in a day or two. You'll be surprised at how many westerners and ex-pats you see in Erbil.
If you were traveling to Federal Iraq, this would be a different post.
While I love your reviews, I do think it would be a huge bummer on your part if you went there and only experienced the Hyatt... I'd you want some really great information, check out "Against the Compass."
Looking forward to the flight reviews!
Are you mad? They hate gays in muslim countries. You're far safer avoiding any muslim countries and not funding terrorist regimes
I'm sure Ben has been to Saudi Arabia, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Qatar, Turkey, Indonesia, among other Muslim nations. Plenty of other reasons not to visit Iraq. Being gay isn't one of them. (Unless you plan on being demonstrative)
They hate gays in the states too and he lives there. He also pays taxes there, funding the biggest terrorist organisation in the world.
I did a bit of brainstorming. You could fly Vistara's new 787 to India, and catch that Delhi-Istanbul flight on one of IndiGo's 777s with seven business class seats (the 6 hour flight to the 2 hour Istanbul-Erbil flight is going for about 1500 USD one-way, which isn't cheap, though I'm sure there will be better ways). This is exciting, but you're a bit too good at your job – I think you've reviewed every single product that flies to Erbil!
As one of the countries that requires a visa to visit the US, for me the most of my concern is not the safety but the likelihood of my future US visa getting declined. One of the questions on the US visa application is if you have visited Iraq.
I went to Erbil in 2014, and it was certainly an interesting place. You can also easily get to Sulaymaniyah and Zakho from there. Honestly, Erbil was probably my least favorite of the three cities in Kurdistan, but there's no reason you shouldn't go and do a review trip there. I didn't feel the least bit unsafe at any time. You're not going to encounter any unsafe situation. You simply won't, and anybody who says...
I went to Erbil in 2014, and it was certainly an interesting place. You can also easily get to Sulaymaniyah and Zakho from there. Honestly, Erbil was probably my least favorite of the three cities in Kurdistan, but there's no reason you shouldn't go and do a review trip there. I didn't feel the least bit unsafe at any time. You're not going to encounter any unsafe situation. You simply won't, and anybody who says otherwise is wrong.
I would say it feels a little bit like a less developed Jordan. Most everything is fairly reasonably priced, and you can even buy alcohol.
I visited Erbil way back in 2010 and really enjoyed it. I'd say you can see everything in Erbil proper in a full day. And then more time if you wanna see anything outside of town. I've also heard really good things about Sulaymaniyah. I didn't make it there because at the time the only way there was through Kirkuk which was less safe then, but now there are Iraqi Air flights.
That's a pretty cool idea, visiting Iraq sounds like one of those "risky/weird, but you gotta do it at least once" things on one's, mine included, bucket list.
As for "mass shootings are a daily occurrence in the United States" - in Chicago for sure, probably more than one daily, but then again you get what you vote for.
You're planning a trip to a safe region in one of historically, culturally, and intellectually richest contries on earth? Cool. Do it, but please don't act like it's a huge deal. It most certainly is not. If Iraq wasn't high on your list, that's on you.
I missed the part where he said it was a huge deal.
I just spent a week in Erbil in January and stayed at the Hyatt. It was lovely, and the Hyatt is in an excellent location.
Erbil is not the least bit dangerous, and as soon as you spend a couple of hours around the city you'll feel totally at ease.
I highly recommend exploring the nearby towns of Akre and Shaklawa, too. The Kurdish people are so hospitable and you'll leave wishing you had more...
I just spent a week in Erbil in January and stayed at the Hyatt. It was lovely, and the Hyatt is in an excellent location.
Erbil is not the least bit dangerous, and as soon as you spend a couple of hours around the city you'll feel totally at ease.
I highly recommend exploring the nearby towns of Akre and Shaklawa, too. The Kurdish people are so hospitable and you'll leave wishing you had more time. They don't consider themselves Iraqi. The government is different, the two regions have a firm border, and the language is completely different.
If you want any tips or recommendations I'd be happy to send some your way!
Thanks as always for the great content
I’m glad I’m not the only one who will become fascinated by a random destination. Currently I’m obsessed with the idea of flying Norse from NYC - LGW and then Air India’s non-stop to Goa.
Definitely go!
As you say, the US is plenty dangerous itself. Would love to read your journey step by step as well, as I imagine it's a road less traveled for many.
If you do decide to go do it completely under the radar, don’t do a pre trip blogpost, don’t hint or elude to your travel plans in any way.
Ben, check out Anthony Bourdain's episode on Erbil. It was excellent.
“First of all, I generally detest asking if a destination is “safe,” when mass shootings are a daily occurrence in the United States.”
If you take this statement literally, there would be 365 mass shootings a year in the US. I didn’t research the subject, but I think that’s probably not accurate and the statement is a bit over the top.
Second, I always consider the general safety of any location I travel to -...
“First of all, I generally detest asking if a destination is “safe,” when mass shootings are a daily occurrence in the United States.”
If you take this statement literally, there would be 365 mass shootings a year in the US. I didn’t research the subject, but I think that’s probably not accurate and the statement is a bit over the top.
Second, I always consider the general safety of any location I travel to - even in the US. As a husband and father I would recommend that to you do as well.
Having said that, Iraq, especially northern Iraq, sounds fascinating to visit.
It's not accurate. There were closer to 700 mass shootings in 2022 in the US. More like 2 a day on average.
You should probably watch the news a bit more. Or, at the very least, do a little research before you disagree with someone else’s comment, particularly in a public forum. Even if you did caveat it by saying you didn’t research it. Not wanting something to be true doesn’t make it so.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_mass_shootings_in_the_United_States_in_2023
It depends on your definition of mass shooting. Some agencies require 4+ fatalities to be classified as mass shooting, others require 4+ injuries or fatalities. Based on the second definition there's on average more than one a day.
According to BBC and their data sources there's been 146 mass shootings so far this year, and not since 2018 has there been less than 365. As such, suggesting they're a daily occurrence is not hyperbole....
It depends on your definition of mass shooting. Some agencies require 4+ fatalities to be classified as mass shooting, others require 4+ injuries or fatalities. Based on the second definition there's on average more than one a day.
According to BBC and their data sources there's been 146 mass shootings so far this year, and not since 2018 has there been less than 365. As such, suggesting they're a daily occurrence is not hyperbole. In fact in each of year of 2020-2022 the total was closer to two on average per day.
You are correct in that it's not accurate, but its because you undercounted. It's actually about 2 per day.
https://www.bbc.com/news/world-us-canada-41488081
You should probably watch the news a bit more. Or, at the very least, do a little research before you disagree with someone else’s comment, particularly in a public forum. Even if you did caveat it by saying you didn’t research it. Not wanting something to be true doesn’t make it so.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_mass_shootings_in_the_United_States_in_2023
There were 695 mass shootings in the US in 2022, using wikipedia's criteria
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_mass_shootings_in_the_United_States_in_2022
Gun Violence Archive lists 647 mass shootings in the US in 2022. It has 145 so far this year and we are 102 days in.
There's room to quibble about their definition, I guess, but "at least 4 people shot excluding the shooter" doesn't seem overly crazy.
Most mass shootings are Gang/drug related. Compare Sweden Gangs in Sweden don't do mass shootings because of the lack of guns, but they have their share of bombings. If you're not gang banging or buying/selling drugs you're pretty safe in the US.
Erbil is fantastic! I did a trip there with some friends about a year ago. It's very safe, people are very friendly, and the Kurdistan area generally has quite a few interesting sites. Other cool sites in the area include Amedi (cool mountaintop town) and Lalish.
I had a great guide there I would be happy to put you in touch with.
Whatever you do though, make sure you spend a night at the...
Erbil is fantastic! I did a trip there with some friends about a year ago. It's very safe, people are very friendly, and the Kurdistan area generally has quite a few interesting sites. Other cool sites in the area include Amedi (cool mountaintop town) and Lalish.
I had a great guide there I would be happy to put you in touch with.
Whatever you do though, make sure you spend a night at the Divan Erbil hotel. It's a decent hotel, but above all, it's by FAR the most secure hotel you'll ever see - the layers upon layers of security are truly over the top (room doors are like bank vault doors etc). The security is mostly unnecessary these days, but is still there. It would definitely make for a fascinating review.
Went in 2018, its really just like going anywhere else. Flight times aren't great, but the city is really just like any other Mid East city. It quiet and peaceful and sort of independent from the rest of the country. There is not much to do. I wouldn't leave the city.
Id check out Kara and Nate on YT when they visited as they did a few videos while they were there and frankly it made me want to go and visit one day
Erbil isn't so much Iraq as Kurdistan, which operates with essentially complete autonomy from Baghdad and is completely safe. I'm sure you would find it interesting, but I wouldn't think of it as a trip to Iraq. Baghdad isn't as calm as Erbil but the chances of finding danger there are probably slimmer than in say Barcelona, London, Paris, or New York, and vastly slimmer than New Orleans, St. Louis, Baltimore, Detroit, etc.
Fine if you're willing to endure years of SSSS
Erbil is a common destination for American citizens in the government and working for oil companies. Nobody will think twice that you were there.
Not true, went several years ago and never had an SSSS in my life.
After I went to Iraqi Kurdistan in 2016, I did have SSSS for several months.
I had no problems after going back the summer before last.
Yay. I've been. Yes, there are some interesting places like the largely restored bazaar or the still-a-lot-to-be-done Citadel which is claimably the oldest continuously inhabited Citadel/ town in the world. Currently, there is only 1 family living inside the Citadel in order to maintain the claim as all the other residents were evacuated more than a decade hour to start reconstruction.
However, although Erbil is not a fantastic city, the Region around is incredible...
Yay. I've been. Yes, there are some interesting places like the largely restored bazaar or the still-a-lot-to-be-done Citadel which is claimably the oldest continuously inhabited Citadel/ town in the world. Currently, there is only 1 family living inside the Citadel in order to maintain the claim as all the other residents were evacuated more than a decade hour to start reconstruction.
However, although Erbil is not a fantastic city, the Region around is incredible - Erbil is the capital of Kurdistan, an autonomous province - almost independent state and is quite diferrent from Iraq. The Region is full with history, intriguing religions (yazidis), natural wonders and great food. If you fly to Erbil, it will be a share not to discover some highlights of Kurdistan. Region is reasonable safe, sometimes there might be some incidents, but acceptabile.
Many places claim to be the oldest continuously inhabited cities. Damascus probably has the best claim.
I visited several years ago in advance of going on a tour to Socotra. I enjoyed my time there, especially the two day trips I took, one to a mountaintop monastery (can’t remember the name off the top of my head) and surrounding area and the other to the canyons near the border with Iran. Just note that the Hyatt, which I recall was near completion when I was there, is quite far out of...
I visited several years ago in advance of going on a tour to Socotra. I enjoyed my time there, especially the two day trips I took, one to a mountaintop monastery (can’t remember the name off the top of my head) and surrounding area and the other to the canyons near the border with Iran. Just note that the Hyatt, which I recall was near completion when I was there, is quite far out of town. I passed it on my way to and from the airport. It’s not walkable to anything of interest, such as the Citadel, but transportation is quite inexpensive though not readily available IIRC. Have a great trip.
You were visiting Iraq/Kurdistan on the way to a trip to Yemen??? - quite a detour...
Yeah, a little . The impetus for the trip was to visit Socotra, but I did a big swing through the region in advance - Kuwait City, some parts of the UAE and Oman that I hadn’t visited, Cairo - in part due to flight schedules, but mainly out of interest in seeing new places.
Just don't be stupid like your buddy Matthew trying to go to a war zone.
You should absolutely go, it is a very safe city and the people should be very friendly to tourists, just for clarification, it is not Iraq but Kurdistan for the people living there.
Unfortunately there will never be an independent Kurdistan, as it's an identity crisis for Turkey, Iran, Iraq, and Syria. And politically inconvenient for India, Russia, China, and the US.
Never been but you should go and try to fly Iraqi airways, fascinating airline! I would love to fly them or Iran air someday...