A few days ago I hinted at how I’m going on a wild (mostly) review trip. I was genuinely very excited, but didn’t want to fully share the details, due to one of the airlines I’m flying, and their (at least official) policy toward taking pictures. Now that my trip is underway, let me explain what I have planned, and then you can expect lots of updates over the coming days.
In this post:
I’m excited to take a Four Seasons Yachts cruise
Often I’ll take review trips exclusively to review airlines, but in this case, I’m taking a slightly different approach. I need to get to and from Europe in order to catch a cruise, but I’ll be flying there and back in the most roundabout way imaginable.
First let me explain that we’re going to be taking a Four Seasons Yachts cruise. We took a Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection cruise earlier this year, and had a great time. I’m just generally fascinated by the luxury hotel branded cruise developments as of late, given the growth in this sector, so I look forward to checking this out.
For what it’s worth, we paid full price for our cruise. Well, we sort of paid full price — we were initially supposed to sail in March, but the ship got delayed, so they offered discounts to everyone who was impacted on future cruises.
I’m very curious to check this out, and will be sharing some initial thoughts from onboard. On the one hand, the ship looks amazing, like luxury on a different level. On the other hand, I find it odd how they don’t include most food and drinks, so I’m curious how I feel about that in practice. The reviews so far have been all over the place, and I’ve seen some very positive ones, and also some very negative ones, so I’m anxious to experiencing it for myself.
I realize cruising won’t appeal to everyone, but over the next year or so I plan to check out most of the major luxury cruise lines (including existing non-hotel branded players, like Explora), as it’s an interesting aspect of the travel industry that I haven’t really covered.
The very fun way I’m flying to & from Europe
Normal people would of course fly from the United States to Europe via… well, the Atlantic Ocean. I’m doing that, but I’m adding on a little detour in both directions to the Middle East, Central Asia, India, etc.
Here’s the itinerary I have planned for the outbound:
- First, I’ll be flying Lufthansa’s new Boeing 787 Allegris business class to Europe; I’ve flown Lufthansa’s Airbus A350 Allegris business class, but I’m curious if there are any differences on the 787, and also, finally get to review Lufthansa’s updated business class soft product
- Then I’ll be fulfilling a dream I’ve had for years, flying from Europe to India via Ashgabat on Turkmenistan Airlines; I’m thinking this is going to be the strangest itinerary I’ve ever flown, in terms of both the onboard and ground experience, and I’ve flown some unusual airlines… I’m just hoping I don’t get in trouble
- Then I’ll be returning from India to Europe in Air India’s first class; it’s supposed to be an ex-Etihad Boeing 777 with first class suites, but what I’m most excited about is checking out the new Air India Lounge Delhi, and in particular, the new first class lounge, which looks spectacularly good, and I wouldn’t be surprised if it makes my list of the world’s best first class lounges
Then here’s what I have planned for the return:
- I’ll be flying Saudia from Europe to Riyadh via Jeddah, taking both the Boeing 787 and Airbus A330; I haven’t flown Saudia in years, and I’ve heard the airline has improved greatly, so I look forward to experiencing it firsthand
- I’ll then be flying back to Europe on Riyadh Air’s new Boeing 787; I love to review airline startups, and this is probably the most well funded one we’ve seen in a very long time, so let’s see if it lives up to the hype, including the lounge in Riyadh
- Currently I’m then booked to fly Alaska’s Boeing 787 business class across the Atlantic back to Seattle, but I’m viewing that as my backup for now; my hope is to fly SWISS Senses’ A350 first class, as I’m still plotting a way to make that happen, mainly so I can update my rankings of the world’s best first class airlines (since this is the missing piece)
Anyway, that’s where things currently stand, so stay tuned, as there will be lots of updates in the coming days. Have I mentioned I’m excited to fly Turkmenistan Airlines? 😉
I do have one quick question, for a part of the trip I haven’t yet decided on — any thoughts on where to stay in Riyadh for a quick visit? I’m deciding between the Four Seasons, the St. Regis, and Bab Samhan (Marriott Luxury Collection), but am open to other ideas as well? The Four Seasons seems to be the most central, the St. Regis is new and the most expensive (and is attached to a mall), and Bab Samhan looks really cool and is the cheapest, but the location probably isn’t ideal for my purposes?
Bottom line
I’m just embarking on a review trip, and I’m very excited about the airlines I’ll be flying and the lounges I’ll be visiting, in addition to the cruise we’ll be taking.
To me, the most exciting trips from a review perspective are the ones where I really don’t know what to expect, and that very much sums up the vibe of this trip. Perhaps aside from Allegris business class, everything here is sort of an unknown to me.
Turkmenistan Airlines? WOOT! Startup Riyadh Air, with a flagship lounge? I’m excited! Air India’s lounge and ground experience? That should be an adventure! And flying Alaska on a plane that isn’t a 737? What will that even be like?!
Thanks for reading, and stay tuned!
I got to visit the AI first class lounge in Mumbai on it's week of operation way back in 2014 and it was amazing!! So, I'm guessing the Delhi lounge will also impress you!!
I'm curious, has anyone out there in the OMAAT world seen the Mumbai FC lounge since and if it's being maintained well???
Sounds awesome! Can't wait to hear back on Turkmenistan Airlines, eapecially. Will you only be staying in a hotel in Riyadh?
Cool you are flying via Ashgabat. Are you staying in Turkmenistan for several days or only in transit. Turkmenistan is an interesting country that I visited a number of times starting in 1993 as part of my work on private sector development. Ashgabat airport was the first new airport built in the former Soviet Union after the breakup in the early 1990s. It was built by Lockheed. Haven’t been on Turkmenistan Air in about 8...
Cool you are flying via Ashgabat. Are you staying in Turkmenistan for several days or only in transit. Turkmenistan is an interesting country that I visited a number of times starting in 1993 as part of my work on private sector development. Ashgabat airport was the first new airport built in the former Soviet Union after the breakup in the early 1990s. It was built by Lockheed. Haven’t been on Turkmenistan Air in about 8 years but it usually operated on time and provided OK service- no first or business class at the time. Looking forward to hearing your experiences and impressions on this review trip.
now this is a big reason why I love your blog...i missed these wild review trips!!! Please stick with the Alaska long haul, that's way more interesting than Swiss First.
Also please review PS MIA soon!
Yes Ben, stick with the new AS LHR-SEA please..... Swiss is passé! ;)
Do you need visa for Saudi?
I came here to suggest the Ritz Carlton in Riyadh, hah.
But seriously, I would pick the Bab Samhan. You have to uber everywhere in Riyadh anyway, so it won’t be significantly less convenient than a downtown hotel and you would be close to the Diriyah and Turaif heritage attractions.
I’ve only flown Saudia in the past year so can’t compare to your past experiences but I’ve found it pretty solid in business...
I came here to suggest the Ritz Carlton in Riyadh, hah.
But seriously, I would pick the Bab Samhan. You have to uber everywhere in Riyadh anyway, so it won’t be significantly less convenient than a downtown hotel and you would be close to the Diriyah and Turaif heritage attractions.
I’ve only flown Saudia in the past year so can’t compare to your past experiences but I’ve found it pretty solid in business class. Better quality food compared to BA though I find they’re not very proactive in offering things beyond taking your initial starter/main order, and I’ve heard others not getting dessert because they’re haven’t been offered and haven’t asked. Not sure if it’s cultural thing (i.e. they don’t want to disturb you and assume you’ll ask if you want something).
Hi Ben - can you share costs ($ / miles)? Cheers.
@Simon, Ben usually shares cost/miles as part of the review of each flight or hotel.
God you’re so boring. 35 going on 75!
You should stay at Ritz-Carlton Riyadh formerly used to imprison Prince Miteb bin Abdullah and Prince Alwaleed bin Talal among others.
Also you should watch the American Dad 2 part episode entitled "Stan of Arabia" before your trip. It is available on Hulu, Amazon Prime for $.199 an episode, and in pieces on Youtube for free but annoying..
Saudia has improved, but "greatly" is a stretch. Very much looking forward to the Riyadh Air review.
Flew Turkmenistan Airlines TAZ-ASB. It was an efficient, standard flight; nothing "scary".
Upon departing Ashgabat, our driver and guide asked if we would like to pull over + snap a few photos of the Falcon shaped terminal, which is an architectural work worthy of photos - of course were happy to do so. In the terminal, I did not walk around like a jackass influencer filming customs officers, but I did snap a few...
Flew Turkmenistan Airlines TAZ-ASB. It was an efficient, standard flight; nothing "scary".
Upon departing Ashgabat, our driver and guide asked if we would like to pull over + snap a few photos of the Falcon shaped terminal, which is an architectural work worthy of photos - of course were happy to do so. In the terminal, I did not walk around like a jackass influencer filming customs officers, but I did snap a few photos of the stunning arched lattice ceiling with no repercussions.
I think Ben knows how to conduct himself in these countries.
Have any of the people commenting on how dangerous and scary Turkmenistan is actually been there?
I was just there and had no issues at all getting a visa, taking photos etc. The people were extremely friendly and super excited/amazed to chat with an American. Yes, we had a guide but he was not omnipresent at all - we left the hotel on our own plenty of times. And he was a private guy -...
Have any of the people commenting on how dangerous and scary Turkmenistan is actually been there?
I was just there and had no issues at all getting a visa, taking photos etc. The people were extremely friendly and super excited/amazed to chat with an American. Yes, we had a guide but he was not omnipresent at all - we left the hotel on our own plenty of times. And he was a private guy - not a government spy! Check out everypassportstamp on FB for real advice on Turkmenistan if you want.
Yes, it is super weird - the white cars, empty buildings, enormous empty luxury hotels etc but it is far far from North Korea. I agree on not doing stupid things but isnt that just good practice everywhere?
Can't stop laughing at the "not a government spy" bit. I haven't been to Turkmenistan, but I did grow up in the USSR, so I don't need to check FB to know how these totalitarian systems work, and how they present themselves to foreigners.
I just spent a week there as well. My guide and I talked incredibly openly about the country, politics, what the news gets right and wrong etc. Spent a good night drinking Turkmen brandy at the gas crater. Sure the presidents are uber eccentric. But the actual country is nothing like North Korea as other posters have said.
FWIW, I meant checking that FB group to understand how life on the ground is in real life, not scary made up drama. I meant that our guide was hardly a government flunky. Whatever. Go and see for yourself.
Tom, not sure who you were whining about, but I was more speaking of the entire region, since there’s multiple wars/conflicts, but, sure, whatever, you downplay whatever risks you wish. You’re one of the good ones; the leopards won’t eat your face, etc.
There was not a hint of whining - not a bit. More the opposite of people opining on things they know nothing about.
Agreed. Lived in Syria for many years since father posted there for work. It was a well known fact that everyone from the street cleaner to the gardener were all spies or at the bare minimum, informants. It didn’t really alter our experience or stay at all - one of the most beautiful and memorable experiences from all of places we’ve lived - but it did force us to be very careful of what we...
Agreed. Lived in Syria for many years since father posted there for work. It was a well known fact that everyone from the street cleaner to the gardener were all spies or at the bare minimum, informants. It didn’t really alter our experience or stay at all - one of the most beautiful and memorable experiences from all of places we’ve lived - but it did force us to be very careful of what we spoke about. For example, it was never divulged that we’d also lived in Israel for five years some time before we were posted to Syria - our passports would be reissued in such instances. Not sure it would have mattered since we were diplomats but still we were very careful of what we discussed - Israel was mentioned as “that place” in personal recollections. All in all though, we loved Syria - which is not an endorsement for the government.
In short, the so called guides in Turkmenistan may not be spies, but they are most definitely informants at the bare minimum.
@Ben, this kind of trip is why we keep coming back here! :) As someone else wrote, Turkmenistan is North Korea with oil and gas, so behave accordingly - it is very different from Uzbekistan that you visited a few years ago.
Is Air India prone to equipment swaps? How sure are you that it won't be their old disgusting 777?
whoow. looking forward.
Fascinating itinerary Ben, hope you have lots of fun. Though can you check luggage, at least on some of the segments? That is one piece missing from your reviews so you don't get to experience what many of us have to go through sometimes.
Riyadh Air's cabin looks really posh.
They do give off a Virgin-like vibe.
How did you book the flight on Turkmenistan Airlines? I saw their website isn't the easiest to navigate. Did you have to use a travel agent in the end?
@ Shaun -- Their website has gotten better in recent years, and surprisingly, I was able to book directly. You just have to make sure you're booking on the part of the site for non-residents.
Emma Cruises x Trek Trendy cruise reviews? If you could write the cruise reviews in a British accent (add some extra u's or something) that would be super! Seriously though, safe travels...
Bab Samhan if you’d like to get a feel of here Saudi tourism is headed. It’s located in what used to be the old town and is close to some of the nicer/newer tourist destinations (Albujairy, Turaif, etc).
St. Regis is very nice but the mall it’s attached to has flopped big time, most of the stores and restaurants have shut down. It’s also a bit of a drive from everything else.
FS...
Bab Samhan if you’d like to get a feel of here Saudi tourism is headed. It’s located in what used to be the old town and is close to some of the nicer/newer tourist destinations (Albujairy, Turaif, etc).
St. Regis is very nice but the mall it’s attached to has flopped big time, most of the stores and restaurants have shut down. It’s also a bit of a drive from everything else.
FS is the oldest and most central, but nothing in the area is different/unique from what you’d get in any other global city.
Got other recommendations if you’re curious about the infamous “underground life” that people love to criticize, just let me know.
Ben, you're fearless, especially as things heat-up again over there. Please be safe.
He's flying premium cabins to go on a luxury holiday with 5-star brands. All power to him, and you take far more dangerous risks every time you get in a car. Get a grip.
Would stay at the 4S in Riyadh (from somebody who stays there ~2 days every week). Centrally located, attached to a decent mall and the food is quite good. However, what sets it apart is the gym. Probably the best hotel gym I have seen anywhere - it's massive. St Regis is nice, too...but I dont particularly like the location
Hey Ben, be very careful while transiting Ashgabat. Turkmenistan is an authoritarian country. You need an invitation letter for a visa to enter the country. Since visa for you is out of question, if your flight to Delhi is cancelled, you will be a "prisoner" in the airport hotel.
I flew the Air India first class on an ex-Etihad 777 earlier this year. The seat shows its age, but food and beverage was very...
Hey Ben, be very careful while transiting Ashgabat. Turkmenistan is an authoritarian country. You need an invitation letter for a visa to enter the country. Since visa for you is out of question, if your flight to Delhi is cancelled, you will be a "prisoner" in the airport hotel.
I flew the Air India first class on an ex-Etihad 777 earlier this year. The seat shows its age, but food and beverage was very good. Air India flight attendants are attentive, but they are not going to wow you with interesting conversations.
I’m not sure I’ve found any conversation with flight attendants memorable, let alone interesting.
Confirm Air India FC on Ex Etihad 777 a very let down with dirty and torn seats, also food and amenities same as Biz class, just lounge makes feel FC vibe.
Flown F on Air India’s Etihad wet lease six times so far from BOM to LHR and can confirm that there were no torn and dirty seats. The Etihad enclosed suites are awesome, as commonly known. The catering, drinks, service, table setting and attention to detail were what one would expect in first class. Only minus for me was the lack of a proper coffee offering - only powdered coffee available.
If be overwhelmingly careful about taking pictures and videos of your flight and transfer/stay in Turkmenistan. Like, incredibly careful
I have been there four times since October, walked around, took pictures - not the Presidential Palace - and had no issues
Not sure this is of much interest, but Saudia will begin Riyadh-Narita flights on November 17. A bit surprising it’s Saudia and not Riyadh Air
I think you will love FS yacht. It's a completely different product from Ritz Carlton's, so much so that I don't think there's any point in comparing them. I have to been to Turkmenistan and flown the airline (although only domestically). The airline was perfectly fine and wholly unremarkable (in a good way). A couple of people on my trip said long haul from London was a bit "funnier," but all in all I don't...
I think you will love FS yacht. It's a completely different product from Ritz Carlton's, so much so that I don't think there's any point in comparing them. I have to been to Turkmenistan and flown the airline (although only domestically). The airline was perfectly fine and wholly unremarkable (in a good way). A couple of people on my trip said long haul from London was a bit "funnier," but all in all I don't think you'll find it as exciting as you're hoping. Ashgabat airport is a trip though. They redid it before the Asia Games several years ago and well, it's pretty much what you'd expect from a dictatorship that LOVES white marble and gold. It's a shame you won't see it from the outside though - it's a massive falcon.
Be careful in Turkmenistan — it’s a lite oil rich version of North Korea.
You’ll be fine but don’t criticize the government or insult anyone (like the anti defamation laws in Europe but harsh punishments).
If you end up writing a bad review… don’t plan on going back.
Flew ashbagat to amritsar once. Interesting to say the least
It is funny the most consensus there was in the prediction post was you flying the Elevate Polaris on the way back, but even if not the itinerary itself seems fascinating.
@ Daniel -- Hah, and that's on my radar as well, but sadly couldn't find any reasonably priced award space for it. It's next on my list.
Plus you still can’t use the doors until it gets certified. So waiting on this won’t be a bad idea!
The new first lounge in Delhi is amazing.
Hard product has some chance to it. I once booked on an ex delta a350 but fell victim to equipment swap and ended up on a crappy workhorse 777.
Food and service were solid at least and direct beats layover for me always. .
I can’t sing Saudia’s praises enough! They have seriously impressed me over the last year!
All this non essential rubbish and people can't afford eggs or a gallon of gas while they work three jobs.
@ Yiannis93117 -- Sorry, you're saying this trip is non-essentially rubbish? You're entitled to your opinion, but you do understand what I do for a living, right? ;-) I think 99% of people flying on planes are engaged in "non essential rubbish," based on what (I imagine) your definition is.
Taking a break from your third job to post here?
I really do not understand why someone that despises these types of activities would waste their time reading the post/blog and then posting a comment. Does Yiannis really think that with a one line insulting comment, they will change anyone's mind? I admire Ben's calm response and even allowing these comments to be posted. Exciting trip and looking forward to reading the lengthy and tedious details.
Your people voted for it
@Yiannis93117, Ouch..... please go grind your axe somewhere else! Or get a 4th job!! :-o
@Ben - just returned from a long journey to India and spent a good four hours in the first class (and business section) of the Maharaja lounge. It's beautiful and luxurious without being overwhelming, but it's also rather small. I stayed in the first-class section and even got a nap room for a couple hours of privacy and rest before the long-haul flight. There was this beautiful scent (mix of cinnamon and clove) in the...
@Ben - just returned from a long journey to India and spent a good four hours in the first class (and business section) of the Maharaja lounge. It's beautiful and luxurious without being overwhelming, but it's also rather small. I stayed in the first-class section and even got a nap room for a couple hours of privacy and rest before the long-haul flight. There was this beautiful scent (mix of cinnamon and clove) in the room, which I loved. I commented on it when I had entered. On the way out, remembered my comment and gave me a cute little wooden box with patchouli and the spice mix which they used to create the aroma. I've been using it at home by placing in the AC vent and the house smells lovely.
..and one more thing...being an AvGeek, don't miss (I was drooling) the artwork in the lounge which used the electrical panels, pcbs, and nuts and rivets from Air India's old 747s!
For sure Bab Samhan in Riyadh. With traffic it's more convenient than the other options and is in a nicer location.
Hi Ben,
If your Four Season itinerary includes Korčula, Croatia I have a few suggestions how to spend a day there with little kids. Or without the kids :-)
I seriously doubt that Turkmenistan airlines will ever qualify for the best first class in the world .
@ Alert -- I think that's safe to say, given that they don't have first class. :p
Turkmenistan has "Ashgabat Class" with a street-food cart frying up the fatty mutton .with hot peppers .
I think you will love FS yacht. It's a completely different product from Ritz Carlton's, so much so that I don't think there's any point in comparing them.
I have to been to Turkmenistan and flown the airline (although only domestically). The airline was perfectly fine and wholly unremarkable (in a good way). A couple of people on my trip said long haul from London was a bit "funnier," but all in all I...
I think you will love FS yacht. It's a completely different product from Ritz Carlton's, so much so that I don't think there's any point in comparing them.
I have to been to Turkmenistan and flown the airline (although only domestically). The airline was perfectly fine and wholly unremarkable (in a good way). A couple of people on my trip said long haul from London was a bit "funnier," but all in all I don't think you'll find it as exciting as you're hoping. Ashgabat airport is a trip though. They redid it before the Asia Games several years ago and well, it's pretty much what you'd expect from a dictatorship that LOVES white marble and gold. It's a shame you won't see it from the outside though - it's a massive falcon.
This is exciting! So curious to see your review on Turkmenistan and yes, please don’t get in trouble lol. I’d also suggest keeping the Alaska 787 flight. It’s more compelling given the newness and hype around it. It would be great to see the soft product on this route which I understand Alaska has put a lot of thought and effort to it. Swiss First is basically Allegris so how different could it be? Service will marginally be better. That’s your review lol.
@ DJ -- I hear you about Alaska. I guess I'm sort of hoping to wait to fly it till it has Starlink, which should happen in the coming months. That's not because I can't be without Wi-Fi for a bit, but instead, because it helps with judging my overall impression of the passenger experience. If it doesn't happen now, I'll do a United vs. Alaska 787-9 back-to-back very soon.
You're totally right about SWISS,...
@ DJ -- I hear you about Alaska. I guess I'm sort of hoping to wait to fly it till it has Starlink, which should happen in the coming months. That's not because I can't be without Wi-Fi for a bit, but instead, because it helps with judging my overall impression of the passenger experience. If it doesn't happen now, I'll do a United vs. Alaska 787-9 back-to-back very soon.
You're totally right about SWISS, though I haven't done a daytime first class flight on them departing Zurich in over a decade, so I am curious how the soft product compares to Lufthansa's new soft product.
@Ben - I’m with DJ on wanting to get a review on the Alaska flight, but agree w/o Starlink it certainly won’t be the same experience. Also, feels like it’s smart to wait until their business lounge in SEA is ready so you can also review that as well.
Can’t wait for your review of the Maharaja lounge! I was there recently and it was absolutely fabulous. Hope you cover the business class section as well :)
In India they have fast elephant-shape electric carts , and you sit on the top of the elephant's back as it takes you from the bar to the bathroom .
What if I want a camel shaped cart though