Maybe I need my head checked, but I’m really wanting to take a flight on Iraqi Airways through Baghdad, and I’d love some feedback. Let me explain…
In this post:
Iraqi Airways runs a fascinating operation
As an aviation geek, I can’t help but be intrigued by Iraqi Airways. It’s one of the oldest airlines in the Middle East, and it has quite the varied fleet. In addition to a bunch of “classic” planes, the airline has a surprisingly modern fleet, including new Boeing 787s, Boeing 737 MAXs, and Airbus A220s.
Those 787s largely serve long haul destinations in China and Malaysia, while the Airbus A220s are… already parked long term (I assume due to engine issues?!).
Anyway, the airline has quite the interesting network, and I can’t help but be curious what the passenger experience is actually like, between the 787s and 737 MAXs (since flying the grounded A220s doesn’t seem realistic).
Researching Iraqi Airways itineraries through Baghdad
I’ve been playing around with some itineraries on Iraqi Airways’ website, because I can’t help but be intrigued by taking a routing on the airline through Baghdad. I’m trying to find the combination of the best business class fare plus the best connection time, since Iraqi Airways’ network doesn’t seem very optimized for connections beyond Iraq (I’m not sure why!). 😉
For example, you can fly from Dubai (DXB) or Istanbul (IST) to Guangzhou (CAN) or Kuala Lumpur (KUL) via Baghdad (BGW). The best one-way business class fare I’ve been able to find is just under $2,000, but that includes a nearly day-long layover in Baghdad.
Meanwhile an itinerary with a more reasonable layover in Baghdad costs quite a bit more, though I’m not sure that’s intentional, rather than just being a function of the city pairs.
So, that brings me to my question… have any OMAAT readers flown Iraqi Airways, and/or connected through Baghdad? Or for that matter, what’s it like spending a night in Baghdad? I generally try not to be an idiot, but also try not to live based on fear (well, other than haunted hotels), so I’m trying to figure out where this falls on the safety scale. Like, I assume Baghdad isn’t Mogadishu, but…
Bottom line
Iraqi Airways has quite the modern fleet, and it’s an airline you don’t hear much about. I’d love to fly with Iraqi Airways, and have been looking at itineraries through Baghdad. In particular, Kuala Lumpur is on my list of places to return to, and taking Iraqi Airways there sounds like quite the fun journey…
If anyone has thoughts on flying with Iraqi Airways, connecting in Baghdad, spending a night in Baghdad, etc., I’d love to hear it! And if anyone can find any better business class pricing on the airline that involves long haul flights, please let me know!
I visited Iraq in May ‘25, spent 7 days in the country and also flew from Baghdad to Erbil on IA907.
There’s a lot of military and police everywhere. Coming from Baghdad city to the airport by car, you get stopped 3 times, including 1 time having to get out and passing through a scanner. (But zero issues)
Did I feel safe? Yes, absolutely. It’s a super interesting place, great food and wonderful people.
...I visited Iraq in May ‘25, spent 7 days in the country and also flew from Baghdad to Erbil on IA907.
There’s a lot of military and police everywhere. Coming from Baghdad city to the airport by car, you get stopped 3 times, including 1 time having to get out and passing through a scanner. (But zero issues)
Did I feel safe? Yes, absolutely. It’s a super interesting place, great food and wonderful people.
Except, getting a taxi between cities, it’s madness how they drive (texting, calling, over-taking on the schoulder, ..)
Iraqi people airways was perfectly fine, wouldn’t hesitate .
Don't you have a family and stuff to be more concerned about than this sort of thing?
For those that have commented about losing the ability to enter the U.S. with an ESTA, or for Americans with Global Entry and are concerned about losing it, how would the United States know you've been to Iraq or anywhere in the world for that matter? It's not like those countries share that information, do they?
US would know about your visit to Iraq because US bankrolls Iraq and its government, so they share information. Also those pesky admission and exit stamps in your passport are dead giveaway.
You might get stopped coming back into the US but you wont have an issue with GE other than maybe a few questions, but no big deal, especially in your case where you can clearly articulate your job and lifestyle. This sounds like one for the ages. Do it!
I fly to Baghdad about three times per year. That is not an airport that you can transit and remain Air side. You will need to get an E Visa.
Did you ask Matt @LALF? I know he has been to Erbil.
Also, Ariana Afghan Airways has a loyalty program, so perhaps do an article on their best redemption sweet spots.
Save yourself a TAAG moment, Ben.
Trust Josh Cahill, he's sometimes very accurate.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5knOgg3V_M
I would not trust a single word that comes out of his mouth after watching his most recent video review (legend airlines) where he (on camera) assured the crew none of their faces would appear in the video to then publish the video clearly showing several of the crews faces.
You're surprised it has a modern fleet? You best do a lot of research because it can bring you some trouble depending on which passport you use, etc. Furthermore, many places the DOS considers high level risk are hardly risky.
Would love to do this myself.
However, as a dutch citizen would then lose my right to apply for an ESTA for travel to the US :-(
I'd see that as a benefit...
Iraq, Libya,etc had Free Education, Free Medical and Free education abroad for it's citizens. It did not sit well with US,Britain & Israel so there you have it.
Also, just a few decades ago, the standard of modern medical training and practice was so high in Iraq, that even the snooty British medical establishment considered Iraqi doctors to be amongst the finest in the world! I hope this country continues to get better.
The West is so jealous. They don't want anyone to be better than them.
Also free death penalty by hanging for any infidel, or anyone who is not in compliance with ISIS mandated policies and procedures.
i dont think you can buy flights on iraqi airways online. no aghregators seem to sell them and the official website has no availability. i think you could only buy them from their agency, but not in the US? im trying to buy khi-njf myself and cant
As someone who travels to the most dangerous countries in the world, Iraq wouldn't even crack the top 30. Completely fine. Would love to see a review of Yemenia on their new A320Neo when it gets delivered next year. Aden is a lovely place, contrary to media belief.
Places I would avoid are rural Myanmar, frontlines of Ukraine, Kivu (at the moment, changing soon lovely place), Darfur, and Puntland, Somalia, and select parts of the...
As someone who travels to the most dangerous countries in the world, Iraq wouldn't even crack the top 30. Completely fine. Would love to see a review of Yemenia on their new A320Neo when it gets delivered next year. Aden is a lovely place, contrary to media belief.
Places I would avoid are rural Myanmar, frontlines of Ukraine, Kivu (at the moment, changing soon lovely place), Darfur, and Puntland, Somalia, and select parts of the ME which I won't mention. Everywhere else is alright. Maybe an Ariana review soon?
Great city. Very vibrant. Good hotels. Fun times. Lots of security at the airport so take a lot of extra time. Iraqi airways has great service.
I have never been in Baghdad but last Ma rch I did visit Erbil. I saw with my eyes what I had never seen on the Media. I found a very nice people and a modern city. I do have a plan to come back in the future
It's because Erbil is controlled by the Kurds, who are in oposition to Iraqi government and Iraqi arabs. They are enemies and hate each other.
Ben, do the 21 hour layover in Baghdad. You should probably get a tour guide to help you out for your time in the city, mostly because they speak the local language, and they can help you navigate a city and culture you don't know too much about. Otherwise, it's not like Mogadishu, and it should make for an interesting experience for you. I've heard from friends that the city has been growing somewhat in...
Ben, do the 21 hour layover in Baghdad. You should probably get a tour guide to help you out for your time in the city, mostly because they speak the local language, and they can help you navigate a city and culture you don't know too much about. Otherwise, it's not like Mogadishu, and it should make for an interesting experience for you. I've heard from friends that the city has been growing somewhat in recent years. Would love for you to publish your thoughts/experience in Baghdad.
Heck, I'd join you if I could :)
Mogadishu is a lovely place, have you been? I agree certain parts of Somalia are still unstable, but Mogadishu has made strides to push out Al Shabab. Absolutely gorgeous coastlines as well.
Heck, they are even bringing back Somali Airlines as they have just acquired 2 A320s.
Honestly, it’s pretty safe. I’d compare it to the likes of Cairo/Amman in terms of safety. Just keep your guard up at all times, don’t venture far off away from the city. Ideally, travel with a local who can speak Arabic and trust your gut feeling. If you feel something is off, don’t do it.
Careful! Iraq is one of 21 countries at Level 4: Do Not Travel as per the US Department of State travel advisories. It was last updated this past July: "Do not travel to Iraq for any reason."
State is 10000% more trustworthy than Internet trolls in these comments.
US travel advisories are mostly worthless. Once they're put in place they are almost never adjusted.
The UK FCDO is a rough guide - advise against all travel to much of Iraq and advise against all but “essential” travel to the rest. Australia advises against all travel. And the US does the same, including stating that no US government personnel based in Iraq are permitted to use Baghdad Airport for safety / security reasons.
If you go, a trip report for the layover is a must. Just reporting on the flight and lounge would be criminal.
Was going to do this in August (spend every August doing Avgeek trips). Bought tickets but ended up not going because of knock-on travel/visa implications for other countries if you travel in/through Iraq.
Was there for a weekend and was pleasantly surprised. Safe, easy to get around with apps, lots of stuff to see, still authentic.
Serious Consideration: before venturing ‘Off-piste’ Ben, check out your travel insurance for limitations.
I know several "extreme travelers" who have flown them and all said it was completely unremarkable. Please go for it - would love an actual review.
If you contact a local travel agency, I am sure they can arrange a sightseeing for you for a long layover. Venturing out alone might not be the best of ideas.
A friend of mine here in Finland is going on a group tour to Iraq/Baghdad this fall. A lady in her late sixties. She is careful in assessing security situations, and if she's going, I'd say you can go, too.
When I was in...
If you contact a local travel agency, I am sure they can arrange a sightseeing for you for a long layover. Venturing out alone might not be the best of ideas.
A friend of mine here in Finland is going on a group tour to Iraq/Baghdad this fall. A lady in her late sixties. She is careful in assessing security situations, and if she's going, I'd say you can go, too.
When I was in Kuwait a few years ago, I noticed Basra would have been a relatively short drive away from Kuwait City, but going there would have had me lose my ESTA privileges, so I did not go. The people I talked to about it all said it would be safe, including a taxi driver who had been many times and would have been willing to take me.
Simon Wilson was in Iraq within the last 2 years. Pakistan, Afghanistan, and Syria as well!
youtube.com/watch?v=PpMUIra8wtQ&pp=ygUUc2ltb24gd2lsc29uIGJhZ2hkYWQ%3D
Baghdad and Iraq as well is quite safe actually. You might be surprised but there's a Venture Capital market in Iraq - and we are considering investing in them, which will certainly include a due diligence trip there!
Probably safer for Jews there than in New York.
Nonsense antisemitic comment from Traveler
Baghdad is safer than the typical US city at this point. Happy to share details about the couple of days I spent there, including wandering through markets on my own at night. [email protected]
Are you using the rwnj definition of a typical us city?
The Economist just had an interesting piece on Baghdad as the world's latest Boomtown. Apparently it is becoming quite the city with a massive population increase over the years, cultural growth, and a scene to rival other Middle Eastern cities. Seems like the perfect time to visit.
Absolutely 100% please do this!
My family has done this flight a few times, no impact to their global entry or pre-check. Iraq US relation has been pretty good and they’ve been welcoming of US visitors the past decade. It would make a fascinating blog post to do the day there and experience their hotels/ lounges.
I spent 10 days in Iraq a couple of years ago, starting in Baghdad and going south into Kuwait. Incredible time with the most generous and hospitable people. Visa on arrival was very easy, and I think they introduced eVisa now.
Baghdad is safe and has interesting sights. Quite enjoyable to go around for a day. People will welcome you and probably be interested in what you're doing there. You probably won't encounter many...
I spent 10 days in Iraq a couple of years ago, starting in Baghdad and going south into Kuwait. Incredible time with the most generous and hospitable people. Visa on arrival was very easy, and I think they introduced eVisa now.
Baghdad is safe and has interesting sights. Quite enjoyable to go around for a day. People will welcome you and probably be interested in what you're doing there. You probably won't encounter many touts and pushy people, except maybe for the airport taxi rank. Baghdad airport is fine, nothing exciting but acceptable for a connection. Feel free to get in touch if you need more info!
Would you use your German passport and fly as a German citizen on this one?
As much as safety is a concern, the bureaucratic ramifications need to be at least considered. Would you lose US Trusted Traveler status? What else would happen? Iraq isn’t the kind of place Americans go for fun. With the stroke of a pen, our dictat- or, excuse me, President, could summarily invalidate your citizenship, seize all your assets, even criminalize homosexuality.
I went to Iraq very shortly before my last Global Entry renewal. I was approved for renewal and definitely declared my travels honestly (including Iraq, Iran, Somalia, and more) so I think this concern is exaggerated.
The down side is that the Global Entry process is opaque, there are no published criteria, and there's no recourse if they deny you. So even if some people had no problems, that's no guarantee that you won't. And the current administration may change priorities on this.
At least for EU folks (and others who use ESTA visa waivers to enter the US) are banned from getting an ESTA if they've visited Iraq (among a handful of other countries).
It's not true that there is no recourse if they deny you. You can appeal and also file a FOIA request to find out why you were denied. Unless it's classified you will find out.
Having said that, it is a pain in the ass!