Recently, I posed the question of where I should travel to see the Northern Lights. I’m actually planning on making a couple of trips to cold climates in the coming months, and I’ve decided that one of them should be to Iceland.
In this post, I’ll share my general approach to planning a trip to Iceland, and am hoping for some feedback. While I’ve briefly visited Iceland in summer, I’ve never been during another period of the year, so obviously this trip would be a bit different than my last one.
In this post:
Why we’re considering traveling to Iceland off-season
Usually I’m someone who avoids cold weather whenever possible, perhaps aside from our once annual ski trips (Ford skis — for me it’s more of a once annual apres-ski trip). 😉 This year, we’re going to Niseko, Japan, for our ski trip, which I’m super excited about.
However, beyond that, I’m planning a couple more trips to cold climates before summer. Maybe I’m just being totally delusional about my tolerance for cold weather, but here’s my general logic:
- It’s a great year to see the Northern Lights, so while I know it’s far from a guarantee that we’ll see them, it sure would be nice if that happened
- Living in Florida, it even just sounds kind of cozy being in a cold, dark climate for some time; places like Iceland also make it easy to enjoy the cold, from there being lots of fireplaces, to hot springs
- I’ve been meaning to visit Iceland again, and I know for sure I won’t have the opportunity this summer, so this is really my only chance, for the time being
To those who have visited Iceland during a period other than summer, I’m curious in general just how rough it is. The temperatures don’t actually look that bad (compared to other places in Northern Europe), though I know there can be strong winds. As a Floridian, will I survive these temperatures, or…? 😉
Along those lines, how do we feel about renting a car? I’d like to think that I’m a fairly competent driver, though to be honest, I don’t drive that much in snow. I know the answer is probably “it depends,” but is a huge amount of snow consistently an issue in Iceland, is it possible to avoid that problem, or…?
My strategy for flying to Iceland
I’ve written about the general challenge of redeeming points for flights to Iceland. Icelandair is the primary airline flying there year-round, and there’s no practical way to redeem points for business class on the airline. Furthermore, premium fares on the carrier can often be steep.
So as someone who likes to maximize value and review as many flight experiences as possible, my strategy is to first fly to Continental Europe, and then book a one-way Icelandair business class ticket back to the United States, with a stopover in Iceland. This offers the most attractive fares, so seems like the best option for my purposes.
The hotels we’re considering staying at in Iceland
I’m still trying to decide how many days to spend in Iceland, and I’m planning on staying at either two or three properties. First, I think it’s worth doing a couple of nights in Reykjavik. My plan is to stay at the Reykjavik EDITION, which is probably the city’s most luxurious property, and it’s also one of the points hotels that’s most on my radar. So that’s easy enough.
Speaking of Reykjavik, does anyone have any dining tips, for restaurants that are a must visit? I know the city has a great dining scene, so I’d appreciate any recommendations.
Next, I think we’d like to do a couple of nights in a more secluded area, which perhaps maximizes our chance to see the Northern Lights. Deplar Farm is without a doubt the most luxurious adventure property in Iceland, though it’s a bit more than I’d like to pay, so I don’t think we’ll be staying there.
Based on my research, I’m leaning toward one of the following three properties:
- ION Adventure Hotel is a Marriott Design Hotels property; I’ve heard mixed reviews of the hotel, though it’s the most reasonably priced of the options
- Hotel Ranga is a secluded property that I’ve heard good things about, and it’s part of Hilton Honors’ Small Luxury Hotels of the World collaboration, so I like the points angle
- Torfhus Retreat probably looks like the most charming option between these three choices, though has no points angle
Do any OMAAT readers have either positive or negative experiences to share about any of those properties? It seems it’s worth spending a couple of nights at one of these properties, but maybe not worth staying at multiple ones.
Now, here’s what I’m most conflicted about. Is it worth staying at The Retreat at Blue Lagoon, or no? The Blue Lagoon is one of Iceland’s biggest tourist attractions, and arguably it’s a bit of a tourist trap. When I visited the Blue Lagoon about a decade ago, it was one of my least favorite parts of my trip to Iceland.
However, is The Retreat at Blue Lagoon worth staying at? It’s mighty expensive, though it does look like it has great views, the restaurants are good (based on what I’ve heard), and maybe it makes the whole Blue Lagoon experience a bit more pleasant? Is it a worthwhile splurge for a couple of nights, or nah?
Bottom line
It has been roughly a decade since I’ve visited Iceland, and I think it’s time to return. This time around, I won’t be traveling in summer, though. My hope is to see the Northern Lights, but even if that doesn’t work out, it still sounds like a cozy and fun trip.
I’m trying to decide how to actually structure time on the ground in Iceland, particularly for where to stay outside of Reykjavik. I’d appreciate some feedback!
Any thoughts on this Iceland trip, or tips for where to stay, eat, etc.?
We started in the turfhaus retreat on our visit in September. Very spendy, but it was the highlight of our trip. The restaurant experience was out of this world, and they catered to our vegan requirement given no notice, with amazingly creative and tasty meals. They woke us up to see the northern lights (at our request) and this is where we got the best view from all the places we stayed at.
I just got back from Iceland two days ago. It was my second trip, and it looks very different in January than it does in July/August. When I landed it was in the mid 30s F, and when I left it was 12 F and super windy. So depending on the day, it can feel like an East Coast winter, or it can be pretty brutal.
Very overcast in general. Anytime you are hoping...
I just got back from Iceland two days ago. It was my second trip, and it looks very different in January than it does in July/August. When I landed it was in the mid 30s F, and when I left it was 12 F and super windy. So depending on the day, it can feel like an East Coast winter, or it can be pretty brutal.
Very overcast in general. Anytime you are hoping to see the Northern Lights, you should plan multiple days. I think they are more reliably seen in Tromso, Norway, and in northern Finland.
Blue Lagoon is great IF you book the Retreat Spa, otherwise the main admission area is now a complete zoo. I'd do this when you land, or the day you leave since it is close to the airport. The Retreat hotel is beautiful, but I don't think you gain anything staying there, you can just book the Retreat spa side and get a reservation at any of the restaurants there. I have not visited the Sky Lagoon yet, but my clients all prefer it to the Blue Lagoon now.
Hotel Ranga is not fancy, but it's the best hotel on the South Coast. It's a warm and welcoming place to stay, and I'd highly recommend it. I have not personally stayed at Torfus Retreat, but my clients LOVE this hotel. Everyone ranks it as the highlight of their trip to Iceland. They all love the restaurant there. (It's also close to the Tomato restaurant everyone else has been recommending in the comments.) From there you can easily visit the Golden Circle, go snorkeling at Silfra, or snowmobiling on the glacier. You'll want a 4x4 car to access it in winter.
I love Iceland in winter! There’s something special about eating a candlelit breakfast. But being that north also means the days become longer quite quickly. In February, there is sunlight between 9:30 and 17:30.
Also, consider going in the Light Festival. They do a night 5K in downtown Reykjavik that passes through all major sights. It was an exhilarsting experience. https://reykjavik.is/en/winter-lights-festival
Been 2 times in February. First time was all green with no snow! The...
I love Iceland in winter! There’s something special about eating a candlelit breakfast. But being that north also means the days become longer quite quickly. In February, there is sunlight between 9:30 and 17:30.
Also, consider going in the Light Festival. They do a night 5K in downtown Reykjavik that passes through all major sights. It was an exhilarsting experience. https://reykjavik.is/en/winter-lights-festival
Been 2 times in February. First time was all green with no snow! The weather can change quickly but is usually clement in terms of temperature.
Driving can be stressful especially for the one not used to winter driving, but is usually safe
Consider splurging for the luxury Retreat Spa experience at the blue lagoon. Well worth the price tag imo. You get access to a private lagoon, spa exclusive restaurant, indoor spa amenities and treatments. It was such a peaceful experience, highly recommend.
I'm a bit surprised at all the comments that driving in Iceland is easy. I can't speak from first-hand experience, but know of some tragic incidents in Iceland. I only know of a 2018 incident where a car got stuck in a glacial river, and one of the passengers died. She was related to a friend of mine, and was on her honeymoon.
Literally just got back from Iceland on Monday! Our third trip and second in winter, it’s one of our favorite places (even though I don’t like the cold either). Got lucky and saw the aurora on Monday night.
Flights: Book Icelandair “business” with MR if you have the Business Platinum to get the 35% points back, the only good way to get to Iceland with points in the offseason.
Hotels:
Reykjavik: The Edition is...
Literally just got back from Iceland on Monday! Our third trip and second in winter, it’s one of our favorite places (even though I don’t like the cold either). Got lucky and saw the aurora on Monday night.
Flights: Book Icelandair “business” with MR if you have the Business Platinum to get the 35% points back, the only good way to get to Iceland with points in the offseason.
Hotels:
Reykjavik: The Edition is undoubtedly the most luxurious hotel and has a decent location on the wharf but is not worth the cost. We prefer the Konsulat which is part of Hilton. Good location downtown and upgraded us to a suite both times we stayed.
South Iceland: We really like Ranga, have stayed there 3 times now. Has a very rustic luxury vibe. Used free night award one night and paid the other. They always upgrade us to a better room based on our status (previously Hyatt and now Hilton).
While we like the Blue Lagoon, especially after no sleep on the plane, we LOVE the Sky Lagoon, which is close to Reykjavik. Gorgeous views of the bay, and sometimes even can see aurora from there.
Happy to provide more info and details about Iceland! Honestly we haven’t eaten at any restaurants we loved.
Winter in Iceland is warmer than winter in many parts of the Northeast. Pack for the weather and you'll be fine. In fact, the major (outdoor) sights are significantly less crowded and thus more enjoyable. It really is cool to see waterfalls and geysers surrounded by snow and ice. If you are not used to driving in the snow, please do everyone a favor and hire a local driver. The best time to learn when...
Winter in Iceland is warmer than winter in many parts of the Northeast. Pack for the weather and you'll be fine. In fact, the major (outdoor) sights are significantly less crowded and thus more enjoyable. It really is cool to see waterfalls and geysers surrounded by snow and ice. If you are not used to driving in the snow, please do everyone a favor and hire a local driver. The best time to learn when to go slow and when to go a normal speed in snowy conditions is not when you are on vacation in a foreign country that gets snow in the winter.
Your article was posted after the major on going eruption 2 days ago.
We visited in mid October 2019, it was the perfect time for us. We started the trip in the low 50's and ended with snow on our last day. Living in the Midwest it was almost temperatures similar to what we had at home.
We booked our Northern Lights trip for the first night of our trip but it was canceled due to weather. We were rebooked for free 2 nights later. We used AURORA...
We visited in mid October 2019, it was the perfect time for us. We started the trip in the low 50's and ended with snow on our last day. Living in the Midwest it was almost temperatures similar to what we had at home.
We booked our Northern Lights trip for the first night of our trip but it was canceled due to weather. We were rebooked for free 2 nights later. We used AURORA REYKJAVÍK for our small bus tour and we were very happy. I did pack some handwarmers and we were very happy to have them this night. Our tour guide made phone calls and moved a few times until we found the lights. We were out until almost 2am and moved a few times to keep the show. It was amazing!
We used points for our hotel (Radisson that is no longer) so I did splurge and pay for our last night at Silica. I can't speak for the Retreat but Silica was very nice. Very few people soaking at the hotel so it was very quiet, great breakfast the next morning. We used our Blue Lagoon entry the next morning by walking the path over with our luggage. We stayed until 2pm and took their bus to the airport.
Order the puffin sliders at Grillmarkaðurinn. Savory appetizer to share.
I pay for luxury, but the value proposition at Deplar Farm does not make sense.
The Retreat at Blue Lagoon with it's private areas, along with dinner at award winning Lava is an option for 1 night on the inbound or outbound as it is adjacent to KEF.
I visited last May. Too late to see the Lights .
I love hot springs but found the Blue Lagoon to be absolutely disgusting. Everyone is given a free facial mask and then they wash off in the pool water rather than a separate facility. I cannot imagine the hotel experience being any better. And you certainly will not meet any locals there, not even the staff.
We had a stopover in NYC on the way to CPT late January, the year of the snowstorm. We noticed a 4 day flight to Reykjavik on Iceland air with 3 nights in the Hilton and Northern Lights excursion with thermal bath.
Note:
1. Check it's not the full moon (oops)
2. Check it isn't pissing rain for the 4 days/nights
3. Be prepared for total gloom even though it gets...
We had a stopover in NYC on the way to CPT late January, the year of the snowstorm. We noticed a 4 day flight to Reykjavik on Iceland air with 3 nights in the Hilton and Northern Lights excursion with thermal bath.
Note:
1. Check it's not the full moon (oops)
2. Check it isn't pissing rain for the 4 days/nights
3. Be prepared for total gloom even though it gets light-ish at 11 AM and dark by 2 PM
4. The Hilton temperature control was a window so you were either freezing or boiling.
Our Northern Lights was a washout in the rain but the tour guide showed people how to trick an I phone into "showing the hidden lights". The thermal pools were ok.
The Blue Lagoon is the outlet from the Thermal Hydro Generation plant - not really a lagoon.
The day after we booked an identically timed tour to Aruba surfaced and we regretted our choice.
But your trip sounds like a high end experience and I don't see you walking around Reykjavik in the drizzle of day2 as the highlight. Enjoy and I hope that 1,2,3 are not in play.
Cheers, Alan
ps Saga class on the 757 was hummm. Maybe on different metal?
My first visit to Iceland was in Sep/Oct 2017. Historical rains washed out the Ring Road in the eastern part of the country. Fortunately, I was at the Fosshotel Myvatn when news of the road closure came out, so I was able to extend my stay while waiting for daily updates. As far as hotels to be stranded in, that's a good one, and as far as Icelandic regions to explore, that's a great one....
My first visit to Iceland was in Sep/Oct 2017. Historical rains washed out the Ring Road in the eastern part of the country. Fortunately, I was at the Fosshotel Myvatn when news of the road closure came out, so I was able to extend my stay while waiting for daily updates. As far as hotels to be stranded in, that's a good one, and as far as Icelandic regions to explore, that's a great one. Talk about Interstellar. I had the time of my life. Eventually, I had to double back west in order to re-sync with the remainder of my itinerary. Just be prepared. I saw many folks huddled up in their cars, unwilling to venture forth.
And don't push the car door open. Hold on to the handle.
Lucky: I agree with the other poster that your cookies need to be easier to reject. I believe that under EU law you are required to post a “reject all cookies” option if you also have an “accept all” option. Even if you don’t want to follow EU law, you should at least consider your readers” user experience.
We stayed here in 2015. Don't know about now, but there were few lights around the hotel. Quite spacious.
We loved it in June! Stayed at both the Edition and the Ion Adventure Hotel in June 2023. Had a suite at the Edition overlooking the harbor and it was very nice. Not the most over the top or memorable hotel ever but definitely modern, elegant, and nice. The Ion Adventure Hotel was a different story. The location generally is great if you have a car but still a bit of a drive to literally...
We loved it in June! Stayed at both the Edition and the Ion Adventure Hotel in June 2023. Had a suite at the Edition overlooking the harbor and it was very nice. Not the most over the top or memorable hotel ever but definitely modern, elegant, and nice. The Ion Adventure Hotel was a different story. The location generally is great if you have a car but still a bit of a drive to literally anything. It’s sort of close to a lot of famous places in the golden circle and actually isn’t that far from Reykjavik. But the hotel itself is quite small and somehow underwhelming. It looks incredible plastered all over the Bonvoy website but maybe is over hyped. We stayed at max capacity and somehow it felt rather empty. Hot spring pool was okay but not as exotic as it seemed. Restaurant was okay not amazing. Glass-walled bar at the end had a nice view but was dead despite every room sold out online. The view of the surrounding area is decent but it’s down in a valley so not particularly “grand.” The geothermal power plant across the street puts out cool-looking steam but occasionally has a whiff about it. Rooms were ok but not luxurious by any stretch. Staff was very nice though. No regrets on staying there but not nearly as memorable as the villa we rented on Airbnb out in the countryside.
I second the comment about Grillmarkaðurinn. The tasting menu we had there still lives rent free in my mind a year and a half later. Incredible. Can’t wait to read about your trip!
Went in December. Saw the Northern Lights. Loved that hotels were empty. In the hotel where we saw the Northern Lights we were the only reservation (a couple later showed up just to have dinner in the restaurant). Imagine having a beautiful hotel to yourself! We grabbed a bottle of sparkling wine and stuck it in the snow to chill while we sat in the outdoor hot tub admiring the lights with no one around..In...
Went in December. Saw the Northern Lights. Loved that hotels were empty. In the hotel where we saw the Northern Lights we were the only reservation (a couple later showed up just to have dinner in the restaurant). Imagine having a beautiful hotel to yourself! We grabbed a bottle of sparkling wine and stuck it in the snow to chill while we sat in the outdoor hot tub admiring the lights with no one around..In the second hotel we went to, it was just us, three people from Jersey (the isle not the state) and a Game of Thrones film crew (this was in 2014). The cold really was not bad at all. This week in the US is way worse.
The downside: the rental car did not have snow tires or chains. We got caught in a sudden blizzard (that locals thought was no big deal) and ended up skidding off the road into a snowbank. We had to be rescued by some local farmers who pulled us out with their tractor. It was a terrifying experience. Find a way to rent a 4x4 with snow tires. Don't just go to Hertz and assume they'll give you something fit for the weather.
I went in the end of March/begining of April and the weather was perfect. We also were able to see northern lights perfectly. The tour agency that organized us the whole trip told us those months are the best ones to visit Iceland
Went in March and loved it:
- Still plenty of sunlight
- Similar temp to an east coast winter
- terrain was still covered and snow and very exotic looking in that arctic way
- may be able to go through the ice caves but it could get too warm by then
But if you’re renting a car (which you should), the weather can be unpredictable and you should be prepared...
Went in March and loved it:
- Still plenty of sunlight
- Similar temp to an east coast winter
- terrain was still covered and snow and very exotic looking in that arctic way
- may be able to go through the ice caves but it could get too warm by then
But if you’re renting a car (which you should), the weather can be unpredictable and you should be prepared to drive in ice and snow. Even on the main highways it can take some time for plows to get there. We were driving and white out came from no where and the snow pilled up very quickly, and it’s not like there’s plenty of places to pull into outside of the city. We saw 2 cars flipped over
Ben,
My wife and I went the beginning of December a few years prior to Covid. Stayed a week at the Hilton that is slightly outside (but walking distance to downtown) Reykjavik. While a little older we loved the hotel and the people and executive lounge there. We didn’t rent a car, but took tours all over and the primary tour company used a spoke-and-hub system that picked people up with minivans and buses at...
Ben,
My wife and I went the beginning of December a few years prior to Covid. Stayed a week at the Hilton that is slightly outside (but walking distance to downtown) Reykjavik. While a little older we loved the hotel and the people and executive lounge there. We didn’t rent a car, but took tours all over and the primary tour company used a spoke-and-hub system that picked people up with minivans and buses at their hotels, took them to a central station downtown - then the people transferred to other buses on their assigned tours from there. That worked pretty well and was relatively cost effective. We had a good time, went all over - and saw some fantastic scenery. Walking around Reykjavik was nice and my wife bought a very nice hand-made wool sweater at a renowned specialty shop that offers custom designs. Whenever it’s cold enough to wear she gets complemented on it and people know it’s from Iceland.
The honest truth is I don’t know whether I’d go back in the winter, and here’s why. One reason is it can be bitter cold - and of course they don’t advertise this enough. They commented on the transit bus from the airport to the hotel that Rejkjavik has basically the same winter temps as New York City. While that may be true, on the tours we went on (Ring Road, Northern Lights and others) once you get 20 miles outside of Reykjavik with the wind blowing it’s was BRUTAL - even they we dressed warm and I’m originally from Northern Canada we couldn’t take the bitter cold and wanted to get back on the tour bus asap. Oh, and both of our IPhones stopped working it was so cold - it just took a lot of the fun out of touring around. I think with the wind chill it was like at least 20 below zero one day even though the sun was shining. And we weren’t the only ones on the tours that were super cold and wanting to get back on the bus asap - there were many! Also, daylight is basically from 10 - 10:30 in the morning till around 3 pm. So you are touring half the time in the dark, which is also restricting. I also struggled to rent a car or not because I like being independent - but found out only certain roads are open in Winter which is also restrictive, and you have to worry about potential damage to your windows and other parts of the car due to weather, plus the weather conditions could change very quickly and you could get stuck somewhere. That’s just my two cents. We loved Iceland in many ways and I would go back in a heartbeat - just probably in ‘shoulder’ season or March/April or Sept/Oct next time - and WOULD rent a car. Hope this helps
7 times visitor, including a winter trip to see the Lights. We booked a 3 night tour but, due to the weather. it was switched into an overnighter. No lights spotted omn this trip.
The horizontally blowing snow made me very happy a professional driver was behind the wheel. I don't think I would have made it.
I went in november to Reykjavik and it was cold similar to NYC. lucked out seeing lights during flight (i was in saga class on left side). I used SuperJeep to see Northern Lights - it took 3 days though as first two nights cancelled bc northern light low activity so suggest going first night in case rescheduled. it was bitter cold that i went back in jeep a few times - we left after...
I went in november to Reykjavik and it was cold similar to NYC. lucked out seeing lights during flight (i was in saga class on left side). I used SuperJeep to see Northern Lights - it took 3 days though as first two nights cancelled bc northern light low activity so suggest going first night in case rescheduled. it was bitter cold that i went back in jeep a few times - we left after 10pm and back around 2/3am. layers and more layers are key.
I used Superjeep for Golden Circle and snowmobiling and GeoIceland for Vik black sand beach, waterfalls and glacier. the driving is flat and monotonous and with only a few hours of daylight wasn’t something i was keen to do. definitely stock up with snacks as there’s not a lot on the way. i’ve got posts on philatravelgirl of my long weekend in Reykjavik
As for restaurants - I liked Grillmarket and breakfast at Bergus Mattson
If you need sweaters, gloves etc I like Icewear
My son and I did the entire Ring road around Iceland the first week of May a few years ago. It was still freezing and extremely windy most of the time. We flew from JFK and had no issue renting a car directly at the airport. I can't comment on lodging since we stayed at small hotels/B&Bs previously booked each night. If you decide to do that, note that the rooms were all very small...
My son and I did the entire Ring road around Iceland the first week of May a few years ago. It was still freezing and extremely windy most of the time. We flew from JFK and had no issue renting a car directly at the airport. I can't comment on lodging since we stayed at small hotels/B&Bs previously booked each night. If you decide to do that, note that the rooms were all very small and if you need space for Miles make sure you tell them that when you book. I can't wait to read your trip report, I'd go back in a minute!
Been 4 times and love Iceland. Never been in dead of winter but have been in April and October. Both were fine - just pack for the weather including rain and wind. As for suggestions in Rejkavick if you like beer, wine or cocktail Google happy hours. Only $5-$8 a beer then versus $12-$15 at night (alcohol is very expensive there). As for hotels I love the Konsulate (Hilton). As Fiamond they put me in...
Been 4 times and love Iceland. Never been in dead of winter but have been in April and October. Both were fine - just pack for the weather including rain and wind. As for suggestions in Rejkavick if you like beer, wine or cocktail Google happy hours. Only $5-$8 a beer then versus $12-$15 at night (alcohol is very expensive there). As for hotels I love the Konsulate (Hilton). As Fiamond they put me in the best suite there twice also agreed to early 9 AM checkin and even offered the buffet day of arrival. Has a rooftop desk and nice spa (sauna mainly) in basement. Also in heart of downtown
We've been to Iceland 4 times in the past 5 years. The standard rooms in Ranga were not worth the points/price to us, but the people and food there are great (Justin Bieber and Kim Kardashian stayed there and I bet their rooms were much better). We hated the Blue Lagoon, from the group changing rooms to the whole crowded scene, but the Retreat is a whole different experience. Your own private changing room for...
We've been to Iceland 4 times in the past 5 years. The standard rooms in Ranga were not worth the points/price to us, but the people and food there are great (Justin Bieber and Kim Kardashian stayed there and I bet their rooms were much better). We hated the Blue Lagoon, from the group changing rooms to the whole crowded scene, but the Retreat is a whole different experience. Your own private changing room for the day, free champagne, excellent food, prettier layout, and outstanding treatments. We did not stay overnight, but we will always buy a day pass at the Retreat going forward. We can't speak to winters in Iceland, but we get out of Reykjavik ASAP as the summer is mad with crowds and all night noise and bachelor party drinkers. The magic of Iceland to us lies beyond Reykjavik. But before flights home, we have tried several hotels: The best was IHG's Kvosin, as it is located in a quiet spot and had beautifully designed rooms. We didn't get much room for the $ at another luxury Reykjavik hotel, Alda, but it has a great location, easy parking and wonderful service. The Hilton was also spacious and pretty but too far from downtown. And other hotels in the middle of the "action" were simply too noisy. We highly recommend taking the food tour on day 1 as it also doubles as an excellent city and cultural tour, and we returned to many of the dining places they introduced us to. The Black Beach Suites in Vik was a real find with a fabulous location near some of the most famous waterfalls and well as the ferries to the Westman Islands, which has a great volcano museum. The Black Beach Suites runs a gorgeous hostel for those on a budget, but we opted for their more beautiful, modern apartments with kitchenettes. If you don't want to spend a lot of time shopping, you can get away with one-stop shopping at the gift shop at Gulfoss waterfall which offers high quality, stylish Icelandic clothing and home decor. Fridheimer Tomato Farm is a special lunch place not far too from there. And Mia's Van parked outside the Skogafoss waterfall serves fish & chips that are out of this world. Sorry, we have no insights into winter experiences, but some summer days were like winter and we disliked those days as visibility was poor as was driving and hiking. We found summer driving to be enjoyable, easy and beautiful, but watch out when you leave Reykjavik because gas stations are few and far between and you can find yourself all alone on a isolated road with few cars passing, even during the busy there. You might want to watch the Netflix series "Katla" filmed near the volcano before you go.
Due to my husband’s research collaborations and his passion for salmon fishing we have been to Iceland around 30 times so we know it quite well. Usually we go in mid September because the rates for salmon fishing are more affordable then. Last year we went in mid July after spending ten days in France. Like you we flew first class on Icelandair (Their seats don’t recline but they are still pretty comfortable and cheaper...
Due to my husband’s research collaborations and his passion for salmon fishing we have been to Iceland around 30 times so we know it quite well. Usually we go in mid September because the rates for salmon fishing are more affordable then. Last year we went in mid July after spending ten days in France. Like you we flew first class on Icelandair (Their seats don’t recline but they are still pretty comfortable and cheaper than first class on other carriers.). We have never gone to Iceland in winter. We have often seen the northern lights in September. In 2016 Iceland had the best northern lights in perhaps a hundred years. The authorities turned off all the public lighting in Reykjavik and wheeled the old folks out of the retirement homes to see it. That being said, I would never go to Iceland with the aim of seeing the northern lights. It’s the north Atlantic. The weather is so often rainy, cloudy, foggy and cold. We have had glorious sunny weather where I hiked in a tank top and broke a sweat but usually it’s cloudy and rainy. One September it snowed so hard that you could not see the road. However, we always rent a car. If you do go in winter (which I don’t recommend), plan to spend a lot on a heavy duty SuV. The locals driveToyota Land Cruisers for good reason. We like to stay in vacation rentals however one of our Icelandic friends worked at the Ion and gave us a tour in 2018. Rooms were small but extremely tasteful with great views. If you have a lot of cash and want the full luxury experience I recommend the Deplar Resort in northwestern Iceland (We have another friend who works there).
Depending on your season, might be better to book the EDITION with Stars, since elites don't get breakfast there. For the dates I checked, Stars rate is about $100 higher than point rate (at 0.7c/point). With free breakfast and the $100 credit, could be worth it.
My first trip to Iceland was in October 2018 and we loved it so much we went back this past summer. Although it was cold, what I most remembered was the wind! But that made the views unbelievably gorgeous.
We drove a regular rental car and the roads were great (no off road). It snowed on the main highway south of Reykjavik, but it wasn't white out and it was no problem even for me,...
My first trip to Iceland was in October 2018 and we loved it so much we went back this past summer. Although it was cold, what I most remembered was the wind! But that made the views unbelievably gorgeous.
We drove a regular rental car and the roads were great (no off road). It snowed on the main highway south of Reykjavik, but it wasn't white out and it was no problem even for me, a California driver.
We waited from 11pm to 1am for the northern lights but didn't get to see them, even though we drove an hour south of Reykjavik to get out of the city lights.
Enjoy your trip and plan to take lots of pictures.
Just wanted to chime in here and say that my wife and I traveled to Reykjavik in 2019 (during the summer) and we greatly enjoyed our stay at the Canopy. I cashed in points with the fifth night free and, due to peak season rates, got great value for my points. The breakfast buffet was great every morning. So if the EDITION rates are too high or points value is subpar, you could do a...
Just wanted to chime in here and say that my wife and I traveled to Reykjavik in 2019 (during the summer) and we greatly enjoyed our stay at the Canopy. I cashed in points with the fifth night free and, due to peak season rates, got great value for my points. The breakfast buffet was great every morning. So if the EDITION rates are too high or points value is subpar, you could do a lot worse than the Canopy. It also is a little closer to the main areas in Reykjavik, not that anything is terribly far away.
Also - pro tip. Street parking is very easy in Reykjavik, so you can avoid the 7000ISK per day valet parking at the EDITION by just street parking. You may need to pay a meter during the day, but my recollection is that overnight parking was abundant and free in the city center. Provided that you're going out and about during the daytime hours, you may not wind up needing to pay at all.
Hate to say it, given there are so many positive comments on here, but I've been to Iceland and didn't care for it much. Where to start? Frosty reception from the Icelandic Immigration people got things off to a bad start. And why is the airport 40 miles from Reykjavik? It's not like there's anything much in between. Everything is absurdly expensive, the weather's awful and people are not particularly friendly. I like to think...
Hate to say it, given there are so many positive comments on here, but I've been to Iceland and didn't care for it much. Where to start? Frosty reception from the Icelandic Immigration people got things off to a bad start. And why is the airport 40 miles from Reykjavik? It's not like there's anything much in between. Everything is absurdly expensive, the weather's awful and people are not particularly friendly. I like to think I'm a reasonably intrepid traveller and have been all over the world. But this is one place I've be happy never to visit again.
Fellow Floridian here. Me and my wife visited Iceland for the first time in the month of January. WE LOVED IT! Blue Lagoon, Sky Lagoon, Dog Sledding, Golden Circle tour and Northern Lights tour. I would highly recommend it to anyone. Be ye not afraid:)
I live in Iceland and it is *very* windy. So even if the temperature sounds bearable it only tells half the story. Right now it is around freezing outside but my iPhone's Feels-Like temperature is -12C. Bring good clothes :-).
Driving is probably ok in a 4x4 and renting a decent SUV would not hurt. But you will have to keep an eye on any road closures and weather warnings and be careful in...
I live in Iceland and it is *very* windy. So even if the temperature sounds bearable it only tells half the story. Right now it is around freezing outside but my iPhone's Feels-Like temperature is -12C. Bring good clothes :-).
Driving is probably ok in a 4x4 and renting a decent SUV would not hurt. But you will have to keep an eye on any road closures and weather warnings and be careful in the snow/ice. The rental cars do come with studded tires so that helps. As March progresses the weather usually calms down. But be flexible in your plans as you might have to travel a day later than you planned.
ION hotel was a bit forgettable for a local, but the barren surroundings (and the large Northern lights window in the bar) could be a novelty. Rangá is really a country hotel with a solid restaurant. I don't remember the rooms being anything special but the food and atmosphere was fine.
As for restaurants, give Oto a look.
Looking forward to your trip report!
Went to Iceland twice - both in end of January - early February, 2023 and 2024. I have a thing about visiting certain places only in winter (like I am going to Lapland in 10 days from now). I would say Iceland in winter is definitely manageable. I live in Houston so you can take my words for it ;). Granted, still need to go with the right clothing. Winter is a great time to...
Went to Iceland twice - both in end of January - early February, 2023 and 2024. I have a thing about visiting certain places only in winter (like I am going to Lapland in 10 days from now). I would say Iceland in winter is definitely manageable. I live in Houston so you can take my words for it ;). Granted, still need to go with the right clothing. Winter is a great time to go in my opinion.
If you go in early February, you still get a good 6-7ish hours of daylight. I didn’t rent a car (since clearly I don’t have experience driving in snow much considered where I live). I used mostly buses and signed up tours.
I recalled this past time on the way coming back from Vik to Reykjavik, there was a snow storm. We got in a complete white-out situation while driving. I was sitting behind the driver and said to him: “I am glad that you are driving, because I can’t see a thing.” He calmly replied: “I can’t either.”
We had a great dinner at Fiskmarkaðurinn/Fish Market.
Fantastic restaurant for sure!
I’m going this March, specifically for the Northern Lights. Traditionally, around the equinoxes is the best time to go. It’s not the darkest time of year, but there tends to be less cloud cover then, than in the more seemingly obvious months like December or January. However, global climate change seems to be upending the long-time weather predictability, so now it’s anyone’s guess. As for Reykjavik, I have only one night there and my research...
I’m going this March, specifically for the Northern Lights. Traditionally, around the equinoxes is the best time to go. It’s not the darkest time of year, but there tends to be less cloud cover then, than in the more seemingly obvious months like December or January. However, global climate change seems to be upending the long-time weather predictability, so now it’s anyone’s guess. As for Reykjavik, I have only one night there and my research led me to lunch at Mat Bar, dinner at Brut, and seeing the Iceland Symphony Orchestra (reputedly one of the world’s best).
I stayed at The Edition and really liked it. It’s not as luxurious as you’ll find elsewhere but the best you’ll get in Iceland. We rented a Tesla which was fantastic. Charging was cheap and plentiful, much cheaper than petrol, it made driving around the Golden Circle a breeze.
Blue Lagoon is a fun visit, if you really want to relax the hotel is lovely but very much a spa hotel with an expensive...
I stayed at The Edition and really liked it. It’s not as luxurious as you’ll find elsewhere but the best you’ll get in Iceland. We rented a Tesla which was fantastic. Charging was cheap and plentiful, much cheaper than petrol, it made driving around the Golden Circle a breeze.
Blue Lagoon is a fun visit, if you really want to relax the hotel is lovely but very much a spa hotel with an expensive name attached to it rather than an expensive hotel in terms of luxury.
Two things you mustn’t miss. 1. The lava show. It’s a bit touristy but amazing to see lava that close and feel the heat of if (also a great ice cream shop over the road which even in the cold is beautiful) and 2. The tomato greenhouse. Make a lunch reservation for the day you drive round the golden circle. We charged the Tesla there and had an amazing and unique lunch.
Have a fantastic trip. We took our 4 and 6 year olds and they loved it as much as us. An amazing country.
Ooooo We also did the tomato greenhouse ("Friðheimar") for lunch and it was magical. It would be even more amazing in the winter. Great suggestion and totally agree!
No such thing as bad weather - just poor clothing.
Went in Feb and was fine -base layer , t shirt, top and
Jacket. Take hat and gloves for when you want.
Driving no issue at all; cars have stuffed tyres but I’ve seen worse conditions in U.K.
Inside is really warm. I’d say winter is best time to go.
This advice assumes no blowing snow on the roads.
Yes, go. Off season trips are fantastic
I went in October a number of years ago and it was certainly colder than the US at that time of year but nothing worse than winter in the US.
I really enjoyed the off-season especially once we got out of Reyjavik because there were no crowds! It was lovely. That does mean being more strategic about towns you visit and mainly meal plans because options can be very limited farther into the country (we...
I went in October a number of years ago and it was certainly colder than the US at that time of year but nothing worse than winter in the US.
I really enjoyed the off-season especially once we got out of Reyjavik because there were no crowds! It was lovely. That does mean being more strategic about towns you visit and mainly meal plans because options can be very limited farther into the country (we made it about ~35% of the way around the main freeway). I would avoid the Blue Lagoon hotel because that sounds like staying at a luxury property in Times Square. Even if it's nice, you're still in a terrible area from a tourist perspective... What I loved about Iceland was the tiny towns and nature that is so directly accessible when you get farther out.
Finally, driving is hit or miss. We mostly had perfect weather and then one night out of nowhere had the worst snow storm conditions I've ever driven in. We almost stopped and changed hotel plans because it was so scary. Think 90 mph wind gusts and white out conditions, mixed with the fact that there are no lights on their freeway (just reflectors on the edges) and we were driving through a mountain pass situation. The locals didn't bat an eye but I was terrified (and I grew up learning in the winter in the midwest).
Iceland generally has a mild climate because it's surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean, despite being at 64 degrees north. You'll need sensible warm clothes, for sure, but the temperatures are unlikely to be dangerously low like they can be in Yakutsk, for instance, which is at 61 degrees north but 1000km/620mi from the Pacific Ocean, so their max daily temperatures usually don't rise above -30c/-22F in January. Now that's cold!
Did it in March a few years ago. Landed and it was 6 with a 20 knot wind pushing it below zero. The weather can change quickly so just be prepared. Long underwear, warm jacket, gloves etc. Going in the off-season is the best as no crowds and easy to get around. You WILL need a 4 wheel drive and take all the insurance. The wind can pick up sand and literally strip the paint...
Did it in March a few years ago. Landed and it was 6 with a 20 knot wind pushing it below zero. The weather can change quickly so just be prepared. Long underwear, warm jacket, gloves etc. Going in the off-season is the best as no crowds and easy to get around. You WILL need a 4 wheel drive and take all the insurance. The wind can pick up sand and literally strip the paint off the car! Build in a buffer on airplane travel days, if the wind gets too high, all flights will get cancelled. With all that said we found it to be absolutely gorgeous, think you've seen something incredible, drive another mile for something better.
I remember reading your first Iceland review, can't believe it's been 10 years! #OG1Miler
@ JC -- Hah, thanks for reading for such a long time, I really appreciate it!
Have been to Ranga in late October. I like it - thermal baths, starwatching etc. Convenient to get to, but also accessible to some amazing scenery for the day. It's not the most incredible hotel, and it wasn't cheap, but it was a good option.
Who knows what weather you will have - but that's always true. Could also be true in summer. It's not that cold at that time of year - above freezing.
Visiting only in tourist season = you will always be a tourist. Visiting during off season = you will get to experience life as a local
I could give you lots of valuable advice, having traveled Iceland extensively many times, but I am so annoyed by your unwillingness to make it easy for readers to reject cookies on your website that I will choose not to share any information.
Well, aren’t you the red-headed stepchild, lol!
I stayed at Hotel Rangá using Hyatt Points when SLH was part of World of Hyatt.
I wasn’t particularly impressed with the standard room and wouldn’t recommend staying there solely for the accommodations. However, securing an advance upgrade to one of the suites might offer a different experience.
It’s worth noting that most guests seem to stop here for 1-2 nights as part of their Ring Road journey, primarily to dine at the restaurant for...
I stayed at Hotel Rangá using Hyatt Points when SLH was part of World of Hyatt.
I wasn’t particularly impressed with the standard room and wouldn’t recommend staying there solely for the accommodations. However, securing an advance upgrade to one of the suites might offer a different experience.
It’s worth noting that most guests seem to stop here for 1-2 nights as part of their Ring Road journey, primarily to dine at the restaurant for dinner. Unfortunately, we didn’t prioritize this and only experienced breakfast, which I found quite underwhelming.
Went to Iceland in March 2023. AirBnB in Reykjavik, Torfhus in the countryside. Strongly recommmend Torfhus. The basalt hot tubs are fun, the lodge is charming, and people are friendly.
We rented a car (Land Rover, actually) and it was no problem driving. We have one day of snow flurries and some of the roads were a little rough, but the car managed fine.
I'd avoid the Blue Lagoon. But if you can withstand cold, the snorkeling on the fault line is pretty fun.
We went in April and the temperatures were around freezing -- no big deal on paper. However we were underprepared for the wind which was quite powerful and cold. Make sure you bring enough hats and face coverings, especially with kids who might not tolerate cold that well.
Deplar Farm is indeed very expensive, but absolutely worth it. Also consider that all of your activities are included, so it's only the up front cost, and it doesn't get any better than their staff/guides (and food).
I am someone who loves renting a car and driving, pretty much anywhere I go, but it really doesn't get any easier than in Iceland. Driving there, even in winter, is incredibly simple.
Weather can't be...
Deplar Farm is indeed very expensive, but absolutely worth it. Also consider that all of your activities are included, so it's only the up front cost, and it doesn't get any better than their staff/guides (and food).
I am someone who loves renting a car and driving, pretty much anywhere I go, but it really doesn't get any easier than in Iceland. Driving there, even in winter, is incredibly simple.
Weather can't be guaranteed obviously, but it's actually fairly mild there, generally speaking.
One point of comment for your Niseko trip.
Staying in the Park Hyatt is Hanazono which is quiet and lacking restaurants. You'd be better staying in Grand Hirafu where there is the majority of restaurants, bars, and general Japanese charm.
Also do not rely on the trains. Heavy snowfalls cancel trains. It's safer to book transportation.
Highly recommend. Likely way less crowded. I went to Faroe Islands in October and it was great not having so many people on the space-limited islands.
I have tickets to Iceland in March and Torfhus retreat is book able with 65k Hyatt points through mr and Mrs smith
Btw
I was there last September and most of the locals said the roads will close easily for days at a time with no warning or timeline for opening during the winter. You can easily get stuck going or coming with no way out; regardless of 4x4 or whatever vehicle you may be able to hire. During our trip in what is typically labeled "shoulder" we saw the most incredible northern lights show - so it's possible outside of the darkest days.
I've been to iceland multiple times during all the seasons...
- usually its easier to fly through London & transfer to Iceland air at LHR
- avoid the Blue Lagoon, its a tourist dumpster fire
- Iceland has a northern lights forecast, but i've often gotten most lucky by just being there for 5-7 days and having 1 epic night. in particular, near Reykjanes where there are some cute airbnb's
- the lack of light...
I've been to iceland multiple times during all the seasons...
- usually its easier to fly through London & transfer to Iceland air at LHR
- avoid the Blue Lagoon, its a tourist dumpster fire
- Iceland has a northern lights forecast, but i've often gotten most lucky by just being there for 5-7 days and having 1 epic night. in particular, near Reykjanes where there are some cute airbnb's
- the lack of light will get to you during those 5-7 days, especially if the weather is foul
- you can rent a 4x4, studded tires are an option through a random rental company near the airport if i remember correctly... but driving while snowing is hectic. this is a total "know your limits" situation
- i've been there in Jan/Feb where it has been blue bird for 7 days... and snowed for 7 days. i would wager that the premium of booking this as a last minute trip is pretty imperative to your experience.
My wife and I took our twins (4 at the time) to see the Northern Lights in November 2023. Said Lights very nicely materialized.
1. Renting a car was no big deal. Very easy country to drive in, even in the winter.
2. If you're taking Miles, definitely consider an AirBNB.
Ben,
As long as you stick to the paved roads, you'll be fine in terms of the weather and driving. Seeing the Northern lights in Iceland is often a matter of luck based on their strong cloud cover, but if the conditions allow anywhere out of town will be a good viewing site. Stay for 3-4 nights to give yourself a better chance (not necessarily at the same hotel).
Having stayed at Hotel...
Ben,
As long as you stick to the paved roads, you'll be fine in terms of the weather and driving. Seeing the Northern lights in Iceland is often a matter of luck based on their strong cloud cover, but if the conditions allow anywhere out of town will be a good viewing site. Stay for 3-4 nights to give yourself a better chance (not necessarily at the same hotel).
Having stayed at Hotel Ranga a few years ago, it's rather a generic hotel/restaurant on a flat part of the island with nothing much to do. I much prefer Hotel Budir on the Snæfellsness peninsular which has an amazing restaurant, more attractive scenery with the Glacier in the background, and interesting towns such as Stykkishólmur to visit during the day.
Personally I would stay away from the Blue Lagoon. There are more authentic and less crowded laug such as Fontina North of Reykjavik. For me, Fiskmarkaðurinn is my go-to restaurant in the big smoke - great fish which I know is your thing...
As for Deplar Farm, there might be a reason their rates are $5k per night in February and it jumps to $10k per night in September. Oh, and there is a 3-day minimum stay. $30k to see the Northern lights? I think you can do it for much cheaper in Norway.
I think you might be romanticising the cold weather. We lived in Singapore and I used to love watching Shetland the detective series and dream of walking on the windswept moorland by the sea. Fast forward to actually being in Scotland and we couldn't wait to leave. Not so much being cold outside but always being cold inside!
Lol my current situation, used to live in Singapore, moved to Montreal partly thinking cold weather/snow looks cool. 3 years down and I'm looking for opportunities elsewhere to leave. It's depressing...especially the lack of sunlight
Grillmarkaðurinn and Íslenski Barinn are must try restaurants.
"As a Floridian, will I survive these temperatures, or…?" You will BUT make sure you dress accordingly. Usually people that are not used to cold climate don't know how to dress. They think that a very heavy parka is needed which is usually not the best option. You should dress in layers so you can add or take out as needed. You will need a warm jacket but probably not the heavy ones you usually...
"As a Floridian, will I survive these temperatures, or…?" You will BUT make sure you dress accordingly. Usually people that are not used to cold climate don't know how to dress. They think that a very heavy parka is needed which is usually not the best option. You should dress in layers so you can add or take out as needed. You will need a warm jacket but probably not the heavy ones you usually see people wearing. You will need a very good quality pair of gloves and waterproof boots, a warm hat and you should be good to go.
Since the Northern Lights is your objective, consider Yukon instead of Iceland. I know someone that went there in 2024 for 3 days and 2 nights and saw it twice.
No chain hotels there.
I went to Iceland in 2011 when it wasn't quite as popular and the Blue Lagoon was crowded. Although, this was in August. I flew Iceland Air last week and saw an advert for this place that looks so much better.
https://www.skylagoon.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAy8K8BhCZARIsAKJ8sfRNFgYuUidI9-W93ANMo7oSutmiqXzaBPf2fGYnXevNqOu7Lq_DGFoaAn_PEALw_wcB
Foodwise, I remember the lamb was amazing. They definitely take pride in it. Enjoy!
Also, remember to put your Alaska Mileage Number into your Iceland Air reservation!
I went to Iceland once about 15 years ago in March. It’s better than the Midwest weather wise and the crowds are clearly thinner. I don’t remember the hotel I stayed at specifically. Regarding driving, outside of the city, it’s pretty icy and I did see some cars skidding out on ice from my bus. In March there is a decent amount of daylight. It’s a decent time to visit if you can handle the...
I went to Iceland once about 15 years ago in March. It’s better than the Midwest weather wise and the crowds are clearly thinner. I don’t remember the hotel I stayed at specifically. Regarding driving, outside of the city, it’s pretty icy and I did see some cars skidding out on ice from my bus. In March there is a decent amount of daylight. It’s a decent time to visit if you can handle the weather. I really enjoyed my time there, even with the weather being a bit cold and windy.
Get a 4x4, and use main roads and you’ll be fine.
Ben, is there a reason why you are not considering flying from Newark to Nuuk and then on to Keflavik? Or maybe on Air Greenland's A330-800 neo to Copenhagen. If you fly from Copenhagen to Nuuk, chances are the weather will be bad, and you will end up in Keflavik anyway :) Thank you sooo much for all your posts. Another question, how do you make money from this blog???
There won't be much sunlight...