Unrelated to everything else going on in the world, can I just dedicate a post to how Turkmenistan Airlines is probably the airline that I’d most love to fly. I just find the carrier to be incredibly intriguing.
In this post:
The basics of Turkmenistan Airlines
I’ve enjoyed all my trips over the years to the “Stans,” because there’s something so nice about traveling somewhere without expectations. It’s a part of the globe that we don’t talk much about in the West, and to me that makes it all the more fun to visit.
I haven’t been to Turkmenistan, but the country is quite unique, based on everything I’ve heard. It’s perhaps one step down from North Korea in terms of the number of restrictions on visitors, and the country has an, umm, interesting government.
Realistically, I don’t think I’ll be visiting Turkmenistan anytime soon. However, I’m sort of obsessed with flying the country’s national carrier, Turkmenistan Airlines. The airline technically has a fleet of 33 aircraft, though only 15 of those are commercial aircraft operating passenger flights.
Nowadays the fleet is even sort of boring, consisting of just Boeing 737s and Being 777s (back in the day, the airline had Airbus A330s, Boeing 717s, and Boeing 757s). The airline even recently acquired former Cathay Pacific Boeing 777s, providing an elevated experience compared to what the airline has historically offered.
As mentioned above, less than half of the fleet transports passengers, so what about the rest of the planes? Well, the airline has eight VIP government jets, plus 10 cargo jets, with eight of these being Ilyushin Il-76TDs. Swoon!
Anyway, everything about the Turkmenistan Airlines experience seems kind of bizarre, from the service, to the empty planes, to the deserted hub airport (in Ashgabat). The airline also reportedly has a no photography policy, but that’s something I’ve been well trained on, from flying airlines like Uzbekistan Airways.
Some time back, Noel Philips uploaded a great video review from flying with Turkmenistan Airlines, and I’m so jealous of how cool the experience was (I mean, in a backwards way).
That’s more useful than Turkmenistan Airlines’ own website, where the only picture of business class is the below one (and yes, that’s the actual size)…
Some of the customer reviews of Turkmenistan Airlines are quite something. For example, Skytrax gives the airline two stars, making it slightly better than Air Koryo (not that I put much/any weight on Skytrax). But the customer reviews are sort of hilarious. Like this one:
Ashgabat to Birmingham. Absolutely awful! Cabin crew disinterested and surly, I would hate to see them have to perform in an emergency situation. Aircraft grubby with the crew unable to work the inflight entertainment. No real attention to the safety briefing. Crew smoking in the toilets and cockpit door wedged open for a while. Cabin crew did not use shoulder straps on take off and landing. No alcohol served and food terrible. An airline that should not be allowed to fly in the 21st Century. Avoid
Or this one:
Was booked on Turkmenistan Airlines to return to the UK after completing a work assignment in the Caspian. First of all, by their nature, the Turkmen people are standoffish. Multiply this by 20 if they wear any form of uniform, so going through Ashgabat Airport is not an enjoyable experience. The aircraft, a Boeing 777, looked fairly new and as I was flying Business Class I had high expectations. The cabin crew were emotionless and stilted when I was shown my seat, and I was offered a plastic cup of water or Pepsi as a pre-flight drink. I asked if there was any Champagne but was told “No alcohol is not allowed” There were only 6 pax in Business Class, but Economy was full. Crew were very lax completing pre take off safety checks, and we took off with 2 passengers with their seats in lay flat bed mode. The minute the wheels left the tarmac the crew released their seat belts and started walking around the galley and cabin. There are large seat back TV screens, but there is no entertainment onboard. Food is served piping hot, but is so bad that it is inedible. Around an hour into the 6 hour flight a male FA plonked himself down in the empty seat across the aisle from me, reclined the seat and then watched a movie on his smart phone. When the seatbelt sign came on for landing at Birmingham the crew went through the motions of pre-landing safety checks, but did not ensure that seats were upright or that window blinds were open. One stewardess was still walking around the galley when we landed. Avoid flying with them if possible!
Where do I sign up?!?!
Booking Turkmenistan Airlines flights is an adventure
Turkmenistan Airlines actually has a pretty robust route network out of its Ashgabat (ASB) hub, and flies to places like Beijing (PEK) and Kuala Lumpur (KUL) in Asia, and places like Frankfurt (FRA) and London (LGW) in Europe.
Actually booking Turkmenistan Airlines flights is quite the challenge. The carrier’s flights don’t show through the major online travel agencies, as far as I know. The carrier’s website lists instructions for booking flights, which are about as complicated as applying for a mortgage.
If you go to the carrier’s homepage to book flights, you’ll see there’s only the option to book flights to and from Ashgabat, and not connecting itineraries. In reality, I’m not even sure to what extent you can book those direct flights, since you need to log-in with your phone number, and go through a bunch of other steps.
Interestingly the website “flyturkmenistanairlines.eu” seems to allow booking of more complicated itineraries. I have no clue what connection that website has to the airline, or if buying a ticket just gets you a credit card charge, and nothing more.
It’s puzzling, because the booking system makes you feel like you’re adding a quilt to an online shopping cart from a mom-and-pop business, rather than booking an airline ticket. Regardless, if these prices are to be believed, Turkmenistan Airlines’ fares are quite reasonable. For example, a Frankfurt to Ashgabat to Bangkok business class ticket costs €1,110.
Bottom line
Turkmenistan Airlines has to be one of the most mysterious airlines out there, given how closed off Turkmenistan is, the carrier’s complex booking process, and how the airline seems to try to avoid people taking pictures. To me that makes an itinerary on the airline all the more interesting.
Anyone have any Turkmenistan Airlines experiences to share?
I was in Turkmenistan just last week. I flew Turkish in, but I took a domestic flight on Turkmenistan Airlines while in the country. The airport was actually quite busy, even at 2am when I landed. Nothing like the videos I've seen posted on YouTube. Ashgabat city center does feel fairly deserted, but as soon as we traveled outside the main part of the city there were a lot of people. We did some sight...
I was in Turkmenistan just last week. I flew Turkish in, but I took a domestic flight on Turkmenistan Airlines while in the country. The airport was actually quite busy, even at 2am when I landed. Nothing like the videos I've seen posted on YouTube. Ashgabat city center does feel fairly deserted, but as soon as we traveled outside the main part of the city there were a lot of people. We did some sight seeing in Mary and that was really quite busy.
Looking back on my Turkmenistan Airlines flight I have to admit it was entirely unremarkable. Nothing about the flight was even memorable. It was a short flight, but service was fine, nothing was out of place as far as safety procedures.
As far as the country itself, I really enjoyed the entire trip. All the Turkmen people I met were quite personable and even wanted to chat me up. I must have had 40+ people asking to get selfies with me as I was walking around. I agree with another commenter here, it was certainly the most unique place I've ever visited.
The Birmingham (BHX) flights were interesting one - they flew to Amritsar on the other side from Ashgabat and timed the flights well, so carved out a niche for themselves pre-pandemic with the Indian community in the city. I'm guessing these were booked with local travel agents. Hence why you are seeing those reviews. My understanding is sometimes it was a mere formality getting off in Ashgabat from Birmingham, waiting at the gate, before continuing...
The Birmingham (BHX) flights were interesting one - they flew to Amritsar on the other side from Ashgabat and timed the flights well, so carved out a niche for themselves pre-pandemic with the Indian community in the city. I'm guessing these were booked with local travel agents. Hence why you are seeing those reviews. My understanding is sometimes it was a mere formality getting off in Ashgabat from Birmingham, waiting at the gate, before continuing on the same plane to Amritsar.
Every travel blogger who goes to Turkmenistan says the same thing about the country, that it's the North Korea of Central Asia but that's a really lazy take and one that's used to register clicks because it's fairly well known in the vloggosphere that if you mention N Korea in the title you are going to get more views on your video. You are free to walk around the country wherever you want to go...
Every travel blogger who goes to Turkmenistan says the same thing about the country, that it's the North Korea of Central Asia but that's a really lazy take and one that's used to register clicks because it's fairly well known in the vloggosphere that if you mention N Korea in the title you are going to get more views on your video. You are free to walk around the country wherever you want to go (you just have to go with a tour guide but from my experience they were flexible with my itinerary and wherever I wanted to go they allowed me to go). I know some Russian so was able to get around the country pretty easily.
I haven't flown Turkmenistan Airlines but in IST airport the airline has a ticket counter right next to some escalators that you can purchase tickets if you ever happen to be there. Otherwise like you said I have not seen an easy way to really purchase tickets with the airline.
May I ask what tour company you used? I am interested in visiting too!
After seeing that video and reading those reviews, I wouldn't be rushing to book a ticket with them. When you put your safety in the hands of pilots, crew and mechanics you want to ensure they are professional, follow procedures and ensure your safety. Turkmenistan airlines looks like an accident waiting to happen.
https://turkmenistanairlinestr.com/en-US
This website works well and accepts credit cards etc.
Lucky, if you click on "non-resident of Turkmenistan" just below the "to" and "from" fields on the site, it links you to a slicker web interface that seems to have been designed with foreigners in mind. change language from turkish to english and you'll be all set with a "normal" booking experience
I visited this summer and loved it. It's definitely the most unique (for better or worse) place I've been, and the history is fascinating. Flew a domestic segment on their 737 and it was actually perfectly pleasant. A totally unremarkable flight (in a good way). Only one person in my group took the UK flight and he said it was fine/nothing to report on but obviously far from the greatest flight he's had.
Not...
I visited this summer and loved it. It's definitely the most unique (for better or worse) place I've been, and the history is fascinating. Flew a domestic segment on their 737 and it was actually perfectly pleasant. A totally unremarkable flight (in a good way). Only one person in my group took the UK flight and he said it was fine/nothing to report on but obviously far from the greatest flight he's had.
Not sure what you're referring to with the abandoned airport in Ashgabat. It was quite busy both times I was there, and it's actually pretty nice (got a big makeover for the Asia Games a few years ago). Lots of gold and white marble, like the rest of Ashgabat. The city itself is a bit of a ghost town, but not the airport.
I'm a bit surprised to read your take on your visit and that you loved the place, given that the country is just a somewhat more "chill" version of North Korea, where you are only shown what the government wants you to see. This is a totalitarian dictatorship where most fundamental rights are extremely limited, a cult of personality, a capital that is just for show with megalomaniac buildings (like their airport) and where actually...
I'm a bit surprised to read your take on your visit and that you loved the place, given that the country is just a somewhat more "chill" version of North Korea, where you are only shown what the government wants you to see. This is a totalitarian dictatorship where most fundamental rights are extremely limited, a cult of personality, a capital that is just for show with megalomaniac buildings (like their airport) and where actually very few people live. Isn't it unsettling to visit a place like this?
This is a big part of why I travel - to see places for myself. The bloggers calling it a "chill North Korea" are off base. Don't get me wrong, it's absolutely a totalitarian regime and they are responsible for tons of humanitarian rights issues, especially towards journalists, but you cannot compare their oppression to North Korea's. From a touristic point of view, it's also completely different. We were free to wander around Ashgabat on...
This is a big part of why I travel - to see places for myself. The bloggers calling it a "chill North Korea" are off base. Don't get me wrong, it's absolutely a totalitarian regime and they are responsible for tons of humanitarian rights issues, especially towards journalists, but you cannot compare their oppression to North Korea's. From a touristic point of view, it's also completely different. We were free to wander around Ashgabat on own and did so numerous times. The culture is very Russian (Soviet), and we stumbled into a really fun party one evening that felt like I was back in Russia. The rest of the time there is with a guide at all times (though we had no issue walking around Turkmenbashi and Balkanabat on own too), but frankly there are so few things to see there that it doesn't at all come across as being a government driven tour. Our guide was also very open about politics and the (ridiculous) policies. Turkmen were very open once you get them talking - definitely nothing "cult" like you would experience in NK. The capital is a bizarre place with the megalomaniac buildings as you mention, but you can only laugh as they get more and more over-the-top. Yes, there are few people but we actually spent a chunk of an afternoon at a theme park and it was really busy and fun to see.
As for the trip and when I said "I loved it" - I was referring to the experience as a whole. Not the country itself, per se.
I just took a trip to Asia and actually planned to fly the FRA-ASB-BKK routing, as it was the cheapest option in economy at only 349 euro. My destination changed so I ended up flying China Southern but I was really curious to try Turkmenistan Airlines.
I think Noel's video lists the Turkish website he booked his tickets on. I recently have seen Turkmenistan Airlines on Google Flights if that matters.