Is Torres del Paine National Park Worth Visiting?

I did Explora in Patagonia/ Torres Del Paine. Expensive but worth it

I think booking a tour, and the right tour, could make a difference. But yes, I think Chile as a whole is more expensive than one might think.

I went to El Calafate in December and can confirm that it was absolutely breathtaking and a lot less crowded and nickel-and-dimey than it sounds like the Chilean side was. Also worth noting that Argentine Patagonia is absolutely massive geographically as compared to the Chilean side, and there are lots more destinations than El Calafate and El Chalten, though those are some of the best known and easiest to get to. We began our trip at Ushuaia which felt totally different and was also very cool. While you will see some crows at attractions like Perito Moreno at peak season, it seems to me there is just a lot more displace to disperse people.
Finally, it is worth noting that the Argentine Peso has absolutely divebombed in recent years (down from 15 to 1 USD when I visited to 42 to 1 USD today); the better hotels, etc. are starting to charge in USD, but they are still a great deal, and anything you pay for in pesos, including park admission, meals, etc. is an absolute bargain. That is true in Buenos Aires too, now.

You can also see glaciers and hike them in Alaska and in Canada-much more affordable and Glacier Bay in Alaska is one of the most amazing sights I've seen!

I'm sorry you didn't have the best experience. Chile was a lot cheaper when I visited in 2002 and without the Instagram crowds... to be honest, you didn't spend any time elsewhere other than TDP which is a shame. It's like going to Yosemite and not venturing out of the valley which is what 80% of tourists do anyway.

Great article. We did the Routeburn Track this year and W Trek last year in March and somehow were able to make reservations a month in advance with the Refugios! While I agree Torres del Paine is extremely difficult to get to, I think that's part of the fun in visiting remote parts of the world and makes places like Patagonia a once in a lifetime trip. I highly recommend the Routeburn Track over the Milford Track if you're looking for better views, however just like Patagonia, keep in mind weather is a game and plan on it to rain the entire time in the summer and if it's sunny you lucked out.

I agree Torres Del Paine isn't cheap, but it's not that bad. It is definitely a place trip that you need to plan ahead. I've taken plenty of trips with minimal to no planning, but that just won't work in Patagonia. I went in April with 5 people total and the temps were only a little cool (I was pulling layers off on the hike to the base of the towers), it wasn't overcrowded, and the food was amazing!! Be prepared for surprises though. Our big one was a flat tire in the middle of no where which was an interesting experience changing. That said, we laughed afterwards, and felt it was authentic Patagonia. It's well worth the planning, and was truly a trip of a lifetime.

P.S. the hikes are no joke. Most intense I've ever done, and we were very sore.

Tdp is one of the most stunning places i have been. expensive yes, but amazing place. and require advance planning to book accommodations at the best prices.

also i dont think traveling during xmas-new yr is a fair reflection of the crowds. it is pretty much the worst time to be everywhere, except your own house. just visit outside of this period and south americans school holidays period and one will experience less angst

We went to Torre del Paine for our Honeymoon 2 years ago, in early march. one of the best, if not the best trip in my life.
Sure, it wasn't cheap, but still manageable. Staying in the park was not feasible (too expensive). Instead we opted for a much more reasonable airbnb / hostel in Punta Arenas, and from there used buses and tours 3 days in a row to get to the park and discover. The first day was a bus tour with 5 or 6 stops to get a feel for the park. That night we went around town in Punta Arenas to negotiate with tour operators to get us to the base of the trail to get to the "base de las torres" full day hike and back. The last day we splurge for a day excursion to the Perito Moreno Glacier.
We spent less than 200$ a person for the Base de las torres and Perito moreno combined. about 60$ for the first day trip.
But we had to negotiate !
Overall, i'd do it all over again!!!

I visited Torres del Paine in January right after the New Year. LATAM flies non-stop Santiago to Puerto Natales on some days, which is closer to the park than Punta Arenas. Flights into PNT are expensive (believe they wanted $300+ for a one-way in economy) but I found award availability for 6,000 AAdvantage Miles + $12.60 USD by calling AA (a total steal). You just need to use the BA Search to find dates with availability.

We spent a night in Puerto Natates and picked up our rental car the next day and drove into the park- it is about an hour and 1/2 drive from PNT. We spent two nights in a tent at Camping Central which allowed us to do a day hike to the Torres. While we didn't do any of the circuits, we felt that we got a good feel for the park and did the most popular hike.

While LATAM flies direct from SCL-PNT, flying home, you need to take a 30 minute flight further south to Punta Arenas which makes the flight back to Santiago a lot longer.

Overall, food in the park was expensive but I felt that with planning (securing rental car and flights early), you can do Torres del Paine cheaper than you may think.

edit: We stayed in Puerto Natales, not Punta Arenas... 2 years later i still get them mixed up...

My daughter and i went to Patagonia in March for 2 weeks including all the places Steph mentioned, and had a travel agent organize everything (we gave him a long list). Yes, it was much more expensive but for the most part it went exceptionally well and we didn't have to worry about anything nor spend months planning. I loved every day we had. This approach is probably not for budget-minded backpackers and more appropriate for us folks in our 60s or 70s.

No other trip required more planning than my TDP trip. Still, it's without doubt my best trip ever. Part of what made it so great was being there solo, had the freedom to explore and met so many great ppl.

You're gonna have a tough time convincing the "affordable luxury" crowds on this blog to do this over spending their money in Bali or Bangkok, unfortunately. Which is a real shame because there is so much to the world than the same chain hotels and airlines...

Sorry to be a grinch but why is this in points and miles? I know "why do u read it if you for care about it"?
TripAdvisor has these type of reviews.

Thanks for the trip report! Agree that the costs are nothing to scoff at. One way we really enjoyed being away from the tourists was staying at Tierra Patagonia. Like Explora, it's an all-inclusive that includes food, alcohol, transfers, all excursions and fees, etc. While I really loved our hikes in the park, the highlights were the hikes we did in the surrounding areas outside of the park, which have the same scenery but almost no people (also allowed for better wildlife viewing - we saw 5 pumas outside the park). Most of the time it was only our hotel group or myself and my partner for our treks. The price of a place like Tierra can seem exorbitant at first, but when you add everything up and consider staying in a luxury design hotel rather than a bunk bed, it seems like a really good deal. Also used Citi Prestige 4th night free for our stay ... this was in 2016 so I don't know if they would still honor - they recently declined an inquiry to stay at Explora Sacred Valley in Peru, stating they don't cover all-inclusives ... they certainly used to!

@Stephanie Woods

Great point (and great name). I failed to mention that all of my "alternative" destinations were places that I've personally visited, which my husband-slash-editor pointed out (and is something I try to do, in general). Hope to add those to that list someday!

Judging by the pictures, it's not worth it, at all))
Every mediocre hike in the Alps beats it, in terms of views, accessibility, value, you name it.

Just pointing out that there seems to be a bias to really expensive cool places when there are places just as cool that are cheaper. For example, I've spent a week in the Azores on Terceira Island for under $1000-solo, everything-flights, meals, hotels, and marvelous hikes. Terceira is unspoiled, hardly anyone is there-you can bike, swim, whale watch, bird, hike, cave, snorkel, scuba and canyon and its 4 hours from Boston nonstop. Incredible scenery-and no one knows about it or ever blogs about as opposed to the Maldives which are incredibly expensive.

I was there 5 years ago during end of March and it didn't feel very crowded (W was open but not full ring). Just bring a tent and self cater and the whole thing is less than $200. El Chalten was also fantastic that time of the year with stunning fall colours and meeting maybe 10 people during a full 2 day trek.

Visited in 1980. Hitch hiked in and out (in the snow). The only accommodation was a bunk house. No trekking available, as not developed yet. A hand full of other visitors, also staying in the same bunk house. Can't remember how we ate, but must have packed it in with us. Beautiful views! COLD! A great memory.

This should be combined with a trip to Antarctica if you wanna maximize your time down there. If so, you will need a minimum of three weeks.

I booked the W trek through Fantastico Sur two years ago for just under $700 and had a great experience. They sorted through all of the logistics and we just had to make sure to hike to the right refugio each day. I do not recommend a guide or a tour for the W trek. It's very easy to figure out where to go that doing it alone is preferable.

More info on my experience if you're interested!
https://creditcardpediem.com/2017/03/05/hiking-the-w-trek-in-torres-del-paine-national-park/

Somewhat disheartened that one of my favorite places in the world was somehow lambasted because it lacks the creature comforts Westerners are accustomed to. Sorry, you had to pay extra because I assume all of the refugios were already sold out. You perhaps booked late. IT is NOT the park's fault. This is a national park and we can not expect them to have available hotels at your beck and call, particularly during high season. Secondly, the remoteness of the place adds to its allure. To get to Punta Arenas then to Puerto Natales was breathtaking in itself. Contrastly, Milford Sound was so easy to get to with tons of tour buses! NO, thank you. Punta Arenas has the fantastic Isla Magdalena, full of Magellanic penguins! Additionally, have you ever fathomed how far south you've traveled and how fortunate you were that there are now planes and buses that are able to take you to these areas? Maybe that's the type of tour that floats your boat. Thirdly, you seemed to have missed a lot of the other highlights in the area - Glacier Grey, the incredible French Valley, etc that can only be seen if you had hiked the W. Put it another way, don't judge Yosemite if you've only been trapped in the crowds of the valley. Also, Elementary School Cafeteria? How elitist! Do you actually expect Michelin star restaurants to be in that area? Thanks for the trip report, sorry you had a not-so-stellar experience but it appears to be rooted from your unrealistic expectations and some air of entitlement.

I visited Torres del Paine in November 2016. It is definitely worth a visit! The high price of accommodations discouraged me from staying at the park or in the vicinity. I booked a day tour from Punta Arenas. I don't recall the exact cost but it was a lot cheaper than staying. The tour included no extended hiking but that isn't necessary to see the main sights, the numerous lakes and rivers and general scenery including Torres del Paine and Cuneros del Paine. The tour also stopped at Cave of the Milodon National Monument about 50 miles from the park.

Weather is a good topic. I found weather in the park to be highly variable. Some places felt warm while others felt like Antarctica. Grey Lake was much colder than other spots and the wind howled. When I visited, the wind was so strong it was exhausting and nearly impossible to walk against. As an experiment I tried jumping in the air, and although I could get little more than one foot off the ground with a standing jump, the wind was strong enough to move my body a few inches laterally! The views of Grey Glacier and Cuneros del Paine were worth it.

Punta Arenas is a great spot to stay when visiting Patagonia. Among many attractions is Nao Victoria Museo, with full-size replicas of one of Magellan's ships, an HMS Beagle replica, and the James Caird, the Endurance life boat Shackleton sailed 900 miles from Elephant Island on the Antarctica coast to south Georgia Island. The exhibits here debunk the claim that Magellan (killed in the Philippines) or any who made it back to Spain were the first to circumnavigate the Earth. That honor should belong to Enrique, a Malaccan slave/indentured servant who was captured on Malacca years before and escaped the expedition in the Philippines.

I appreciate your review even though its is not about the nerdy pursuit of miles, points or credit cards. The point of accumulating that stuff is to travel. And the point of travel is to do something once you get to the destination. These posts help people decide where to go and what to do.

I'm visiting next month during winter. Has anyone experienced Torres del Paine during this season? I'd love to get an idea on what to expect.

I looked into both Argentina and Chile's patagonia areas. I went Argentina for all the reasons you wrote about. Stayed in a nice hotel for 70 a night. Got a full tour of the glaciers by boat with a hike ON El Calafate for about 100 dollars and it finished with whiskey served with glacier ice. At dinner I just ordered the family meat platter. Because of the Argentinian peso collapse it was a 20x30 inch slab with all the meats the restaurant served for the same price I'd pay for an Applebees dinner in the US. It was so much meat I fed the friendly stray dogs on the way back to the hotel.

Went from there to Ushuaia and the amazing landscape of Tierra del Fuego. And for 75 dollars booked a horseback riding tour through the mountains while there was sun, rain, snow and light in the clouds (all in 2 hours). My pictures from there are some of the most beautiful I've taken on any trip anywhere.

Chile may have some stuff going for it down south but it can't match Argentina.

You're so right, Ben, pictures don't do it justice.

There are few places in the world that have left me as awed — or stayed in my heart — as Torres del Paine has. And in this wanderlust soul, it's one of the few places that calls me to return.

I went to Patagonia for a week over Christmas and New Year's and the weather was 0°, winds were 70mph, and it was constantly raining/hailing/snowing except for two days. Those two days which were 21° and the sunniest days where I took a 12 hour tour of TDP and went horseback riding outside of the park. It was the most beautiful place I've ever seen in my life. Better than Canadian Rockies, South Island NZ, and the north shore of Kauai. It's a hassle and journey but completely magical.

Worth It??? You bet it is. We have traveled the world the last 25 years and I can say that our trip to Chile and to Patagonia is at the top of the list. One of our quests was to hike to the towers, we started with four and three of us made it with a guide. We did not break any records doing the 12 mile hike round-trip in one day but as seniors we accomplished it and have no regrets. Expensive? Somewhat, but the scenery was breathtaking. When we reached the base of the towers after five hours hiking, our guide had lunch prepared and even had a friendly fox watching us. The weather was beautiful for our trek in Dec 2016. We were back at our hotel in Puerto Natales, the The Singular Patagonia, a must stay place by 9 pm that night. We were exhausted but accomplished one of the great hikes a person should do in a lifetime!!!!

Thanks, useful tips as we start to plan our trip to the region later this year. We were in Chile lake district some years ago and loved it.

We are right now in Yellowstone and there are no shuttle buses (tours maybe, nothing free). In fact the park is packed with cars, overflown parking and other nyances so that my partner said after first day that she is not coming back. We did come back, at 6am, but are cutting are visit short and heading to Glacier NP a day early. Quality of food isn't that great, no good cafes anywhere, overpriced and of course non-refundable, fully booked accommodation.

We love US national parks (we are from Europe), enjoy them a lot and have visited most of them but they aren't without their issues (crowds, quality, prices) and the examples from Chile don't really sound that bad in comparison. Of course not everyone is as crowded as Yellowstone and July is a busy season.

We visited TdP for 5 nights as part of a 3-week Patagonia trip in February 2018 that also included El Chalten and El Calafate. While in TdP, we stayed one night just outside the park at Pampa Lodge ($284/nt), two nights at Hotel Lago Grey ($420/nt), and two nights at Hotel Las Torres ($437/nt). All of these were regular lodge rooms (sheets, towels, en suite bathrooms, views included). We did not book a year in advance - more like 3 months - yet we were still able to pay well below $1000 per night in each location. We took only two tours - a boat tour on Lago Grey for 75000CLP each (approx $108 in today's dollars) and a two-hour horse ride at Pampa Lodge - spending the rest of the time walking in or driving around the park. Food was high but not exorbitant, given what it takes to get food into that place. We had read in advance about the rapid changeability of the weather and packed accordingly, so the sudden showers and periodic gales were taken in stride. All in all, our visit to TdP was stellar - easily one of my all-time favorite spots on the globe with its wild, breathtaking scenery - and that's taking into account we followed our time there with visits to the stunning locals of Chalten and Calafate.

It's not necessary to book through expensive tour companies to just stay in the park, though it will take time to research and, yes, use Google Translate on some websites. We did not hike The W, so we did not have to deal with all of the craziness the author encountered to book the refugios. We also chose to drive R/T from Punta Arenas, which cut down on the stress level tremendously and gave us a lot of flexibility. The crossing into Argentina is one I'll never forget (not negative, just bizarre), and the vast emptiness of Argentina between the crossing and Calafate is just awesome.

I hope those who read this excellent piece will explore different options for their time in TdP before writing it off as too expensive or too much hassle. It was definitely the most complicated part of our Patagonia trip, but I wouldn't hesitate to say it was the best part.

We are going at the end of October and staying at a place called The singular which looks to me astounding and has been highly recomended. Its not cheap, but we found a nice package that includes breakfasts and some dinners and the excursion to Torres del Payne for about $400 a night per couple. Checked this out
https://youtu.be/GZa7SL-PWWA

Among the alternatives, I believe you left out one of the best ones out there: the Dolomites in Italy.
Scenery -gorgeous, especially when they turn pink in the sunset. Comfort -you pick between huts, B&Bs and splurge hotels, ranging from 30 euros per day. Food -out of contest. History -it's not wilderness, it's a unique blend of nature and civilization. Sure there are some overpacked resorts there too, but the area is so big that if you want to get away from the crowds you have plenty of options.

Great guide but your costing explanation is a bit ridiculous. What you have described isn't remotely a "roughing it" experience. You've described how to turn a "roughing it" experience into a normal one, which given the wilderness it's in, is not cheap.

If you actually want a "roughing it" experience then you don't need to pay for the boat, the refugios or the WiFi (seriously!?). It's not cheap, but I spent 2 weeks in the park for something like $500 all-in, including transport.

I completed the "O" circuit in TdP January of 2018 where i camped in a tent every night and carried my provisions and supplies with me in a backpack. I traveled solo and made some very strong connections with fellow travelers embarking on this same journey. We also all helped each other get through the challenges and tough days during this journey.

It took some coordination and planning to line up camping reservations but it is doable with some focus (I don't know Spanish). Besides airfare and backpacking supplies this trip was extremely budget-friendly.

I do not know if I will ever lay my eyes on a more beautiful place. The weather was intense, the wind king, and the wifi unnecessary. Disconnect and learn a lot about yourself whether you do the Circuit or the W. This place is powerful in so many ways if you do it right. Maybe I'll see you there when I get back someday.

I visited TDP a couple of years ago. As you describe, logistics are challenging, crowds are significant, and weather is volatile—and often horrible. I was there in the middle of March and had unusually good weather for at least half of my visit. This was the shoulder season, so crowds weren't too bad, either. Despite all of that, I was underwhelmed. Awesome landscape to be sure, but better than the photos? No, not really. And the park isn't that big, so you're making a long, challenging, expensive journey for something of a one-hit wonder. And a lot of other people are right there with you.

The place I return to again and again because I'm awed by the landscape is Norway. The weather is just as much of a wildcard (though without the fierce winds of TDP) and costs are high (though still better value). But the country is huge and sparsely populated (especially in the north). Norwegian law allows you to hike and camp pretty much anywhere you want. Cheap flights on Norwegian Air Shuttle make it painless to get to. And once you're there, infrastructure is first-rate.

My wife and I visited Torres del Paine as well as Punta Arenas and the Chilean side of Tierra del Fuego a couple of years ago. Our trip was a little different from most as we are hikers in spirit but not in reality. So we did a couple of day hikes during our 3 days in the park as well as a small group tour and a drive around the park in our own rental car. Just wanted to give my perspective for other travelers not up for multi-day trekking.

Even without the 5 day hike the park is incredible. The views from the roads around the park are magical. The water has a silty light blue character unlike anywhere else on earth contrasted with incredible mountainous terrain. The day hikes were plenty adventurous and offered some of the best views I have ever seen. Right from the road you can see incredible wildlife including guanacos, rheas, vultures and more.

We stayed at the Rio Serrano for three nights. It is in an incredible valley along with some other hotels right outside the park (about a 5 minute drive up and down the surrounding mountain road). It was about $350 a night for the standard rate at the height of high season over Christmas, which included a great breakfast buffet but not the ($40 or so?) dinner buffet. They also offer a $1000+ per night all inclusive rate which I believe is what was shown in this write up. That comes with breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Of course if you take advantage of lunch you're not doing it right. Honestly I'm unsure what could be included (maybe complementary guides?) that would justify the all inclusive rate.

The hotel is really nice with a cabin feel and a great lobby with pool tables, couches with animal skins, etc for hanging out in the evening. You have an incredible view of the Torres while dining at the extensive buffets. Among the small collection of other hotels there was also a restaurant which served incredible lamb asado al palo (really it was the beast meat dish I have ever had anywhere) at a very reasonable rate.

I booked the hotel in November and got the sense that I lucked out getting a reservation at the standard rate with such a late booking. Afterwards we drove down to Punta Arenas which has a totally unique feel and is surprisingly cosmopolitan. That area is in itself quite an adventure...following in Magellan's shoes in an end of the world ferry across to Tierra del Fuego, visiting the only mainland King Penguin colony, visiting entire islands filled with penguins, etc.

TLDR: Just wanted to share that you don't have to rough it or completely break the bank to enjoy this destination. It is not a budget destination, but it's not Bora Bora either. There are also cheaper options such as staying in Puerto Natales and driving 90 minutes into the park each day, where I'm sure there are accommodations to fit any budget.

Torres del Paine National Park is one of those places that help to reminds us that planet Earth is still a wild, untamed planet. I have trekked there three times: early March, mid-April, and mid-November. Yes, do consider the shoulder season (spring: Oct-Dec, and fall: March-May — the seasons in the Southern Hemisphere are reversed): While the weather may be amazingly beautiful, very cold, miserably rainy and really variable year-round, it's at least not windy from late March to December. Wind, in the summer only –late Dec to late Feb– can literally blow your mind away!

@Endre - why do you wish to police the points and miles requirement? I thought all your flights were paid first class hence no need game the system like the rest of the schleps?

Pictures don't smell good. Pictures don't sting your face from the cold. Pictures don't show the insta hordes. A picture is a good memento or inspo, but it is cheap substitute of the event. I haven't been there, but many many seasonal places are expensive. Jackson Hole in summer??? cha ching! After this year and the nightmare of Everest, I think Nepal is also off my list. Sooo many fab places to see without hitting the trendy ones.

now there are direct flights Santiago Puerto Natales, no need to go to Punta Arenas

What you really need to know about Torres del Paine is that you may spend thousands to attempt to visit and then be.... locked out. Sometimes that is because of forest fires in the park -- way too many of them in recent years. Then there are the little "regional rebellions" when the people in the area decide to barricade the roads (including those to and from the park) because, who knows, sometimes they complain about having to pay for things. In November 2022 it's the park rangers on strike, closing access to some of the park's most popular trails. Don't say you were not warned.

There are very limited flights from Santiago to Natales and only during a part of the year.

You can have high winds or dead calm at any time of the year. There is no season free of wind. Evidently only the locals are aware of this.
Most tourists don't/won't/can't see Torres del Paine for what it is: former ranches, grazed over and burned over and some of the fence wire is still to be seen, now converted into one of Chile's primary money-making sites. Yet the semi-blind tourist and the fully dishonest travel writers refer to this place as "pristine" or something similar. It isn't. It's over-used, over-developed, and over-charged.