With my mom having recently passed, I now have a bit more time for travel, and also feel like I need to get out and just enjoy the outdoors and clear my head. So along those lines, I’ve just booked a quick adventure for Ford and me to go to Iceland at the end of the month, and would like to share what I’ve booked, and also get some feedback.
In this post:
Why we’re traveling to Iceland (sort of) off-season
Back in 2014, I visited Iceland for a few nights, traveling alone in the peak of summer. I absolutely loved it, and I’ve been meaning to return ever since. While I was close to planning a trip several times, life always ended up getting in the way.
Well, that’s no longer the case, and rather than putting it off, I just decided to book the trip, as the stars sort of aligned in terms of our schedules (including childcare), flight and hotel availability, etc. Let me share some background, what flights I’ve booked, what hotels I’ve booked, and then I’d love some thoughts and feedback.
Usually I’m someone who avoids cold weather whenever possible, perhaps aside from our once annual ski trips (Ford skis — for me it’s more of a once annual apres-ski trip). 😉 However, Iceland in the off-season has always interested me a bit, for a variety of reasons.
For one, I still have never properly seen the Northern Lights, and Iceland is a great place from which to do so. Furthermore, living in Florida, it’s just kind of cozy to go to a cold and dark climate every once in a while.
I’m finally flying Icelandair Saga Class again!
First let’s talk about the flights. I’m not sure if the flights I booked make me the best husband (for putting Ford on a better flight) or the worst husband (for putting Ford on a better flight and then abandoning him), or if they just make me a good blogger (for taking one for the team)… you decide. Long story short, Ford and I are flying separate itineraries.
Ford has a very nice journey to get there — he’s flying Delta One from New York (JFK) to Keflavik (KEF), as I redeemed Flying Blue points for him. So he’ll be enjoying the Delta One Lounge and the industry leading Delta One product on the Boeing 767-300ER. 😉 Then on the return, he’s taking Icelandair’s brand new nonstop flight to Miami (MIA), so while it might not be that luxurious, it sure is convenient.
My situation is a little different. Long story short, I’ve been meaning to review Icelandair for a long time, as I last flew the airline in 2014, and it has an all-new fleet.
I’ve written about the general challenge of redeeming points for flights to Iceland, though fortunately the airline often has attractive Saga Class ares, including if you have a stopover in Iceland when traveling between many points in North America and Europe.
So what I did is book New York to Keflavik on the Boeing 737 MAX 8, and after a stopover in Iceland, I’ll be continuing to London (LHR) on the Airbus A321LR. I found a reasonable paid Saga Class fare (around $1,200 total), so that works for me.
What’s my return flight going to look like? Well, I’m actually using this trip as a jumping off point for a larger review trip, which I’ll share the details of soon. I think some of you will be very happy with my choices.
The four hotels we booked for Iceland
In total, I’ll be on the ground in Iceland for six nights, and I’ll be staying at a total of four hotels (Ford is on the ground for five nights, and staying at three hotels). So, what’s the plan?
We’ll be staying at the Reykjavik EDITION for a couple of nights, which is probably the city’s most luxurious property, and it’s also one of the points hotels that’s most on my radar. So that’s easy enough.
Speaking of Reykjavik, does anyone have any dining tips, for restaurants that are worth checking out? I know the city has a great dining scene, so I’d appreciate recommendations for any “can’t miss” meals, either for one or both nights. We’re open to anything from fine dining to casual, as long as it’s good! And if there any activities or other sights y’all recommend there, I’d love to hear it as well.
Next, we’re going to do a couple of nights in a more secluded area, which perhaps maximizes our chances of seeing the Northern Lights. Deplar Farm is without a doubt the most luxurious adventure property in Iceland, though it’s a bit more than I’d like to pay, so we won’t be staying there (maybe next time?).
We then tried to decide between the following three options:
- ION Adventure Hotel is a Marriott Design Hotels property; I’ve heard mixed reviews of the hotel, though it’s the most reasonably priced of the options
- Hotel Ranga is a secluded property that I’ve heard good things about, and it’s part of Hilton Honors’ Small Luxury Hotels of the World collaboration, so I like the points angle
- Torfhus Retreat looks like the most charming option between these three choices, though has no points angle
Based on a past post where I asked OMAAT readers which of those properties is best to stay at, Torfhus Retreat was the most widely recommended, so that’s what I ended up booking. Does anyone have any tips on how to best spend two days driving around the area from there, taking in as many sights as possible?
Next, I was going back and forth about whether to stay at The Retreat at Blue Lagoon. The Blue Lagoon is one of Iceland’s biggest tourist attractions, and arguably it’s a bit of a tourist trap. When I visited the Blue Lagoon in 2014, it was one of my least favorite parts of my trip to Iceland.
However, I’m intrigued by The Retreat at Blue Lagoon. I could never decide if it looks like it’s worth it or not, given how expensive it is. So I’m taking one for the team, and we’re staying there for one night. I’ll be sure to report back!
Lastly, on a less glamorous note, I’ll be spending a night at the Courtyard Keflavik Airport, simply because I have a very early morning flight (and Ford flies out the evening before, so I’ll be alone).
Bottom line
It has been over a decade since I’ve last visited Iceland, and I’m excited to finally return. To be honest, I booked this as a pretty last minute adventure, as the stars sort of aligned, in terms of wanting to get out, finding decent value flight options, and being able to tie it into a bigger review trip.
I’ve been putting off this trip for so long, so am hoping for the best. I’d certainly appreciate any feedback OMAAT readers may have.
How will Icelandair be (I know it’s more like premium economy than business class)? Did we make the right choices with the hotels we booked, and any things to be aware of with them? Any restaurants we can’t miss in Reykjavik? What are our odds seeing the Northern Lights in late October? Will I have issues driving as a Floridian, or will conditions still be fine? Thanks!!
For restaurants, I recommend The Fish Market (Fiskmarkaðurinn), described as Asian Fusion. Delicious, inventive food, with excellent presentation.
And everything in Reykjavik is expen$$$$ive.
Was there for 6 days 2 years ago in June. Rented a car at the airport to get around and see the sites. Driving distances are 100 miles to sites. Main sites Strokkur Geyser and Gulfoss Falls going North East and then South East are Skogafoss waterfall and Reynisfjara Beach with black sand and baslat stacks. Driving - I found the distance were long and the roads were mostly empty on single lane roads with...
Was there for 6 days 2 years ago in June. Rented a car at the airport to get around and see the sites. Driving distances are 100 miles to sites. Main sites Strokkur Geyser and Gulfoss Falls going North East and then South East are Skogafoss waterfall and Reynisfjara Beach with black sand and baslat stacks. Driving - I found the distance were long and the roads were mostly empty on single lane roads with no pull over points. I was concerned if we had any problem. There are tour bus trips to these sites. At this time of year - I would likely not get a car and take a tour bus. In June it was cold and raining and driving on these back road is not fun in rain. Take a tour.
For hotels, I debated on the Canopy or Hilton (Editon was too expensive). Canopy has no parking but in town. Hilton is a mile out across from US Embassy and has free parking. Better place to stay if you have a car. And when you learn the zoned parking situation - you can drive a mile in and park for free after 5pm in zones a couple of blocks from main in town streets - bars, restaurants. Canopy is closest to that - Edition is walkable but several blocks.
The Hilton is big, as Gold got lounge access and upgrade tod top floor suite. Nice lounge with good food - they even serve sushi. Likely more full service than Edition - no lounge.
Restaurants close early - and I really did not find a knock out restaurant in the main area. Hotel maybe best.
Did spend the last night at the Courtyard at the airport. Nice hotel, and free parking - then drive over to airport in the morning turn in car. No shuttle to airport. Would need to take a cab - they are expensive. Even though not that far. Hotel can arrange. Courtyard has a great restaurant - great local fish - recommend getting a reservation in the restaurant when you arrive at the Courtyard (this is not a normal Courtyard).
Blue lagoon - touristy. I really don't think I would spend a night there though. The restaurant / and hotel not as great as they make it out to.
Again - you are going to be there off season - it will be cold. I would not get a car and drive around - could have bad weather. I think - I would avoid a remote, isolated hotel as well.
People are friendly - and if a Edition check out the bars - very festive. There is even a gay bar - worth the visit. Good bar done towards the Canopy from main street. Popular bar and got invited to private bachelor party - all young people getting drunk. Not much else to do there.
There are other spa's - like one south of town in thermal area on the coast.
My take - stay in town, no car, take bus for tours, no remote hotels - all due to likely bad weather at this time of year.
Some tricks to spot the lights from an astrophotographer who also churns miles:
Astrospheric - an app to check cloud cover, on Play Store/iPhone App Store.
Glendale App - its a web based app, not anything you download like the app above, a website you add to your home screen. It's finicky, but it gets amazing alerts. (https://aurora-alerts.uk)
You will see websites or apps that talk about KP index. Ignore it. It averages data...
Some tricks to spot the lights from an astrophotographer who also churns miles:
Astrospheric - an app to check cloud cover, on Play Store/iPhone App Store.
Glendale App - its a web based app, not anything you download like the app above, a website you add to your home screen. It's finicky, but it gets amazing alerts. (https://aurora-alerts.uk)
You will see websites or apps that talk about KP index. Ignore it. It averages data over 3 hours. KP is worthless. You want live data. Go here:
https://pettusplots.com/aurora.html
Important numbers to look for: BZ negative, solar wind higher 500. They also show recent solar flares and a prediction algorithm. Iceland is further north, so those numbers may even be okay a bit more positive and lower, but a good reference site for the real data NOAA has some good dashboards, but not as user friendly.
Check your camera/phone settings. Night mode is a must. Sometimes you will see them on the camera and not your eye. Bring a TRIPOD. Full stop, a must. You will need to take photos longer than you think, it will keep the stars from being blurry. Get one that supports a phone and a camera for versatility. Use the two second timer so that by the time you press the shutter button, your hand won't cause the phone or camera to shake. If you have a digital camera/DSLR, manual mode, ISO 800-3200, start with 4 second exposures, bring up as needed, but no more than 10 seconds. If you see a number that is starts or ends with f, that is aperture, you want the lowest possible number.
Good luck and happy hunting!
Another vote for Tromso if you want to see the lights...plus it's just an awesome place. However, Iceland is never a bad idea :)
Hotel Ranga is worth checking out. I think it's a SLH property (I booked through Hyatt at the time). I stayed at the Edition and wasn't impressed. I didn't feel like there was any charm, it was just another upscale luxury hotel. You could pop it down in any major city and it wouldn't be out of place.
For food recommendation, don't laugh but Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur across from the Radisson Blue has the best...
Hotel Ranga is worth checking out. I think it's a SLH property (I booked through Hyatt at the time). I stayed at the Edition and wasn't impressed. I didn't feel like there was any charm, it was just another upscale luxury hotel. You could pop it down in any major city and it wouldn't be out of place.
For food recommendation, don't laugh but Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur across from the Radisson Blue has the best Iceland hot dogs. My wife and I still talk about how good it was whenever we see a hot dog stand.
Hakarl fermented shark - you are most likely not going to enjoy eating but you're probably not going to find anything in this world that tastes like a mixture between durian and gasoline, that's edible.
When we booked our trip to Iceland (after Oktoberfest) a few years ago, we got the same feedback. Not the best time to see the Northern Lights. But you did the right thing in going as far north as possible. That's where we saw spectacular lights near where you are in Hauganes on that fjord. It was early November. It can happen. One thing I highly recommend (bit of a road trip), is Friðheimar restaurant....
When we booked our trip to Iceland (after Oktoberfest) a few years ago, we got the same feedback. Not the best time to see the Northern Lights. But you did the right thing in going as far north as possible. That's where we saw spectacular lights near where you are in Hauganes on that fjord. It was early November. It can happen. One thing I highly recommend (bit of a road trip), is Friðheimar restaurant. It's about 1 and a half outside of Reyjkavik. It's a restaurant inside of a greenhouse that grows tomatoes. It is fantastic in all respects. Make reservations if you can get them.
I go every year and have yet to run out of places to visit. Reykjavik is usually last on my list and i only stay there for a day or two.
If you want tips...Valdis Ice Cream, Noi Sirius Chocolate, Bonus for groceries, and a long list of good food.
I can highly recommend Minilik restaurant, about 8 miles from Torfhus Retreat. Yes, it is an Ethiopian restaurant in the middle of Iceland! Perhaps the best Ethiopian restaurant we have been to (outside of Ethiopia) and we have been to a lot (two of our children are Ethiopian).
We were there 3 weeks ago Putin the central and western part of the country. Spectacular scenery but cloudy and drizzly most days and nights- no Northern lights .
Stayed at The EDITION this summer. Elites get access to their private speakeasy bar, which has odd hours, so ask if they don't tell you about it at check-in. The rooftop bar is great for views. Take advantage of happy hours around the city because drinks are very expensive!
Dinner-- go to Grillmarkaðurinn for their tasting menu, but skip the wine pairing as it is extremely underwhelming. The food is amazing. I second the...
Stayed at The EDITION this summer. Elites get access to their private speakeasy bar, which has odd hours, so ask if they don't tell you about it at check-in. The rooftop bar is great for views. Take advantage of happy hours around the city because drinks are very expensive!
Dinner-- go to Grillmarkaðurinn for their tasting menu, but skip the wine pairing as it is extremely underwhelming. The food is amazing. I second the foodhall right around the famous hot dog stand. Wait in line for the hot dog; it's worth it.
If it's not too late to adjust your Retreat at Blue Lagoon reservations, I would. You can get a spa package for the day that gives you access to some less crowded spaces you get with an overnight stay. Do the float therapy treatment if you want to feel the most relaxed you've ever felt. Sky Lagoon just outside of the city was a nice way to spend a few hours, especially if you go around sunset.
Drive the Golden Circle, yes you will be fine driving. Consider going "backwards" to avoid tour bus traffic.
I'll be curious about what you think about your Icelandair flight. I encountered some of the drunkest people of my life on our flight there. It's a short hop, so they were still drunk when we landed.
Hi,
I visited Iceland last November 2025
I booked a trip to see The northern lights with Get Your Guide, it comes with a lifetime guarantee. First trip out they didn't disappoint, the lights came across from the south peninsula
Wow what an amazing experience, the colours were amazing. Ive never seen anything like it...
Good luck with your trip..
Andy
I have nothing to add about the hotels because my son and I did the Ring Toad and stayed at smaller very charming places but wanted to chime in to tell you you should have no problem driving anywhere. We were there in early May, drove the entire way around the country and had no issues at all. If you have time and it's the right month go North and see the Puffins. I recommend Borgarfjordur Eystri for that.
Hi,
the Edition is great - the have the northern lights on display in the bar so if you do not see them you at least see them there :) Check out the rooftop bar btw great cocktails and views
For dinner I love this one https://apotekrestaurant.is/en/ - Apotek restaurant
Sky Lagoon is better than Blue Lagoon.
Regarding the food scene in Reykjavik, you will be spoiled for choice. I highly recommend The Reykjavik Food Walk; it's a great way to explore the compact city center.
The bakery and coffee scene is incredible as well. Brauð & Co and Reykjavik Roasters are two must-visit places.
In the evening, you should check out the Pósthús Food Hall, which has an amazing vibe.Posthús Food Hall, which has an amazing vibe.
We really like the Old Reykjavik restaurant on the Laugavegur. I would be only minimally optimistic about the Aurora since the Fall weather seems usually quickly changeable. We've been there twice for 5 days here and there and yet to see it.
I see I'm late to the conversation so hopefully you see this, but to the northern lights, as others said, keeping expectations low helps. Watch the aurora forecast, watch the weather forecast for cloud cover, and get away from light pollution. A new moon helps, but won't matter with a stronger showing. If you have a car and are comfortable driving at night on the roads, being able to move somewhere where the weather is...
I see I'm late to the conversation so hopefully you see this, but to the northern lights, as others said, keeping expectations low helps. Watch the aurora forecast, watch the weather forecast for cloud cover, and get away from light pollution. A new moon helps, but won't matter with a stronger showing. If you have a car and are comfortable driving at night on the roads, being able to move somewhere where the weather is clearer can certainly help. October can certainly be a good time to see them.
Speaking of driving, they have an excellent site for road conditions in the country. Road.IS I believe it is. I've been to Iceland several times in winter and that site helps you know what you're getting into when you're heading off (or if you shouldn't go).
Speaking of weather, definitely be flexible with plans. I've been in some of the heaviest rains of my life there and even when the snow isn't falling, winds can make for tough visibility with blowing snow.
For food in Reykjavik, Brauð & Co has been our go-to bakery. Just up the block is Reykjavik Roasters, which is our normal coffee stop (unfortunately, you're not allowed to bring in food from the bakery to the coffeeshop). Restaurant wise, we've some great meals in Iceland, but no restaurants in Reykjavik that immediately come to mind as must-go's (except maybe one that I just looked and appears closed now). If you like gin, you should find some good local options, too.
Feel free to reach out if you have other questions. I look forward to the future reviews!
Can't beat Hotel Ranga for northern lights ---observatory on the property and sky viewing lounge chairs----excellent food and pleasant staff
If you like modern architecture (like a stereotypical Miamian), may I suggest Ásmundarsafn, the house and studio pioneering sculptor Ásmundur Sveinsson built for himself and his family. It is a unique take on the concept of creature comforts (which reminds me of how cats like boxes just large enough to fit them) and the grounds are planted with works that are of the same art era as Henry Moore yet quite different and often touching....
If you like modern architecture (like a stereotypical Miamian), may I suggest Ásmundarsafn, the house and studio pioneering sculptor Ásmundur Sveinsson built for himself and his family. It is a unique take on the concept of creature comforts (which reminds me of how cats like boxes just large enough to fit them) and the grounds are planted with works that are of the same art era as Henry Moore yet quite different and often touching. It's at Sigtún 104 in the Laugardalur neighbourhood (park on the street in this residential area). Nearby is Laugardalslaug, the big municipal pool complex that includes geothermal hot tubs and indoor and outdoor pools, at different temperatures, and costs 1,380 ISK (11.36 USD as of this writing). Of course it's a modern pool complex and not a lake like the one at Blue Lagoon. (I'd recommend Laugarvatn Fontana, but it just closed for renovations until next spring, or Seljavallalaug Swimming Pool, but it's really a charming spot in summer that's little fun in the dark and cold Icelandic autumn.) The Iceland Weather Service produces aurora borealis forecasts every 3 hours here https://en.vedur.is/weather/forecasts/aurora/ but they're automated, run year-round with high probability ratings even while it never gets dark, and don't always correctly predict cloud cover even three hours out, so supplement with common sense. One of the best areas is Route 1 (the highway that goes around the island) in the southwest between Selfoss and Grindavík (whose remaining adult residents have been allowed to return at their own risk now that active eruptions have ceased) as well as the Snaefellsnes Peninsula northeast of Reykjavik and Westfjords and the Vatnsnes Peninsula farther northwest (but these northern regions are difficult to do in a day). For food, consider fish and chips and fried Icelandic Camembert with a view at the revolving restaurant atop the Perlan water supply complex and museum between Reykjavik Airport (the close-in airport that serves domestic, Greenland and general-aviation flights), the National University, and public broadcaster RÚV.
Laugaras Lagoon, a new geothermal complex, also near Geysír, opened today. Very nice as far as could be observed in the RÚV Frettir story, at at 3 bln ISK it had better be. Has its own waterfall where you can swim or, er, chill at either the upper or lower level, and ambitious restaurant.
Additional questions about this trip come to mind …. Ben writes: “I’m not sure if the flights I booked make me the best husband (for putting Ford on a better flight) or the worst husband (for putting Ford on a better flight and then abandoning him)”.
One asks, should the husband’s of the vast majority of happily married couples try to pull that stunt, then they would have to answer some very serious questions...
Additional questions about this trip come to mind …. Ben writes: “I’m not sure if the flights I booked make me the best husband (for putting Ford on a better flight) or the worst husband (for putting Ford on a better flight and then abandoning him)”.
One asks, should the husband’s of the vast majority of happily married couples try to pull that stunt, then they would have to answer some very serious questions from ‘the wife’, yes?
Ben continues: “Or if they just make me a good blogger (for taking one for the team)… you decide. Long story short, Ford and I are flying separate itineraries”.
The obvious question has to be …. why on earth does a ‘husband and wife’ commence a flight from the same city, travelling to the same country, not take the flight together?
As Ben, one suspects, will remain silent once again when challenged, one awaits the troll’s response.
I've been a few times to Iceland, and the most stunning sights, in my view, are a little further round the coast road to the south east than you've planned. Glacier hikes at Skaftafell, the Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon, and Svartifoss waterfall are really spectacular, but would be a long drive (and back) from the hotels you mentioned. Probably Hotel Jókulsárlon is the best option around there. Torfhus looks nice but if it's reopened, the new 360...
I've been a few times to Iceland, and the most stunning sights, in my view, are a little further round the coast road to the south east than you've planned. Glacier hikes at Skaftafell, the Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon, and Svartifoss waterfall are really spectacular, but would be a long drive (and back) from the hotels you mentioned. Probably Hotel Jókulsárlon is the best option around there. Torfhus looks nice but if it's reopened, the new 360 Hotel should be great. It was great already, but is currently closed for a major rebuild, due to open "in 2025." The owner/manager is a real character, and I saw him dealing with a grumpy guest's complaint by just evicting him: "I want my guests to be happy. You are not happy, so you cannot be my guest. Tonight your stay is free of charge, and in the morning you will leave." Which I thought was kind of awesome.
Would definitely recommend stopping at the Secret Lagoon. It’s not as built-up as the Blue Lagoon, but it’s cheaper and still pretty awesome.
Ford will be flying in “The industry leading Delta One product on the Boeing 767-300ER” …. Really Ben? …. Industry leading?
“The staggered business class configuration offered by Delta on the 767 is one of my least favorite out there”.
“Personally I won’t be flying Delta to London again if I can avoid it since I find the 767 hard product to be uncomfortable”.
(Extracts taken from one of your previous reviews of the...
Ford will be flying in “The industry leading Delta One product on the Boeing 767-300ER” …. Really Ben? …. Industry leading?
“The staggered business class configuration offered by Delta on the 767 is one of my least favorite out there”.
“Personally I won’t be flying Delta to London again if I can avoid it since I find the 767 hard product to be uncomfortable”.
(Extracts taken from one of your previous reviews of the Delta business class seat.)
One has to ask what has Ford done to you to deserve the ‘hardship’ of the Delta 767 business class seat? Alternatively, what has Delta changed to suddenly become “Industry leading”?
One suspects that you Ben, will ignore my questions as your answers could be embarrassing. However, I am sure that there are those out there who are willing to add to my school day.
He was joking you dunce
…. about what, numpty?
So good that you are going to get out and "clear my head' by taking a trip with your husband. Not able to offer any good advice for Iceland apart from all the usual stuff (although "Blue Lagoon" is vastly over-rated) but am hoping that you might finally recover from your recent of mother and try to heal and reconnect properly with Ford and your living family and start to move on.
If your main ambition is to go on a luxury trip to Iceland and engage in some spectacular outdoor activities, you booked the right thing.
If your main intention was to see the Northern Lights, you booked the wrong thing! Wrong time of the year and wrong location.
The best places to go hunting for the Northern Lights are all north of the Arctic Circle. All of Iceland is south of the Arctic...
If your main ambition is to go on a luxury trip to Iceland and engage in some spectacular outdoor activities, you booked the right thing.
If your main intention was to see the Northern Lights, you booked the wrong thing! Wrong time of the year and wrong location.
The best places to go hunting for the Northern Lights are all north of the Arctic Circle. All of Iceland is south of the Arctic Circle. The season generally runs September to March, but the darkest time in December/January is best.
So if you really want to maximise your chances to see the Lights your best bet is a trip on Hurtigruten or Havila between Bodo and Kirkenes and back which gives you 5 days on a boat at sea with minimal light pollution and changing weather conditions all North of the Arctic Circle.
The Lights did come down much further South this year at an unusual time of the year too, so there's always a chance, but I am talking about maximizing your chances. For that, you booked the wrong trip.
I stayed at the Courtyard Keflavik. It's a decent airport hotel. Not adjacent to the terminal, but they provide a free shuttle to the airport.
Agree with some others that if seeing the northern lights is your main goal then Iceland and especially Reykjavik in October is not ideal.
Tromso is probably the best place to go and in Nov to March
That last trip of yours to Iceland was TEN YEARS AGO?!? I feel like I was reading those reviews barely a few years ago! Mein gōtt na! Time flies when you’re busy! Glad to see you’re getting out there, mate - we all got ya x
Auroras are already visible in northern region, however, Iceland is relatively south compared to Norway/Finland.
https://en.ilmatieteenlaitos.fi/auroras-and-space-weather?station=KEV there is already good chance in the north to see them.
I think it's too early for the lights? If you want to see them, you should go in winter (and Tromsø is probably a better place for it than Iceland).
I visited Iceland on October once and it's a "never again" kind of experience for me. You may be lucky to have a nice weather but if you're not, you may end up with constant extreme rain and wind which makes things not fun. I'd rather go in winter when it gets romantic with snow, etc and gets a nice vibe.
March in Svalbard is also a good place to see the aurora. Now that would be a trip report!
my feedback about this trip:
Yes the blue lagoon is worth visiting but not staying there 2 nights. It's closer to the airport than to Reykjavik.
...It's expensive for what it is and i would recommend to spend the day there if you can get an evening flight home instead of staying 2 nights there.
I've spent about a day there including having lunch before my flight and it was more than enough.
my feedback about this trip:
Yes the blue lagoon is worth visiting but not staying there 2 nights. It's closer to the airport than to Reykjavik.
It's expensive for what it is and i would recommend to spend the day there if you can get an evening flight home instead of staying 2 nights there.
I've spent about a day there including having lunch before my flight and it was more than enough.
There are many visits from Reykjavik, so having these trips from the blue lagoon can add up quite some time during the day considering that time is limited during the winter. Remember that sunset arrives in the early afternoon !!!
As for the northern lights, i would recommend to book a small group with a local agency. Hotels usually have good partners for that.
Have a nap or start your night as usual (you'll be forced by early sunset anyway) and be prepared to wake up around 2 am to leave the hotel for an hour trip to get far away from city lights to see the northern lights.
One usually drives around 45 minutes to an hour, then spend around an hour enjoying the northern lights before heading back. So you should be back to the hotel around 4-4:30am
It was probably one of my most beautiful trips before I had my daughter. Now that she is 6, i can't wait to take her there, maybe next year.
Anyway, enjoy this beautiful trip !!
Wow, that Retreat at Blue Lagoon video was so nice I feel like any visit would be a letdown. I’m going to have that piano music piped through my house on loop
That's interesting there's not good award availability, it surprised me.
Also I'm exited to see what comes next for you.
Flying Saga Class from Florida to chase the Northern Lights feels like upgrading your couch at home to Delta One—sure, it’s premium, but do you really need it to see some green sky?
Is the Blue Lagoon back open? It's so close to the town of Grindivik which I thought had to be abandoned because lava was coming up through cracks in the town's streets. But I don't follow the news about it so I don't know the current status.
Iceland was our first post-pandemic international trip. Since it was summer, no northern lights. During our winter visit it was overcast and snow daily so also no northern lights. :-(
I went to college up in Fairbanks, Alaska and lived up there for 7 years. I’ve seen the northern lights a ton of times but they seem to appear out of the blue. AKA when you least expect it. It always seems like the best light shows are when it is -50F at 2am or when you are in the middle of doing something. Just understand that you will usually only see the aurora when...
I went to college up in Fairbanks, Alaska and lived up there for 7 years. I’ve seen the northern lights a ton of times but they seem to appear out of the blue. AKA when you least expect it. It always seems like the best light shows are when it is -50F at 2am or when you are in the middle of doing something. Just understand that you will usually only see the aurora when it is dark out. Preferably not around full moon.
The Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights) is associated with solar storms which are on a 11 year cycle. You are in luck as it is at the peak of the cycle. Quick research says the peak this cycle is 2024-26.
Will you see the aurora while you are in Iceland? I would say your chances are equivalent to purchasing a plane ticket in advanced then being in Tokyo or other parts of Japan at the perfect time to witness peak cherry blossom. Murphys law, you may see the aurora during the red eye portion of the flight to/from Reykjavik.
My recommendation is that you and Ford have an amazing time in Iceland. If the aurora makes an appearance, savor it. If not, I’m sure you’ll have another chance in the future. Maybe when your sons are old enough to appreciate the experience.
I don’t think I am able to post a web link, but do a web search for ‘University of Alaska Fairbanks geophysical institute aurora forecast’. It’s full of interesting information.
My husband and I have traveled three times to Iceland, twice in the summer and once in the middle of winter (January). We rented a car during our summer trips and drove up the West coast of Iceland, stopping for a few days in Stykkisholmer and Isafjordur before returning back to Reykjavik. We flew to Akureyri during our winter trip specifically to see the Northern lights (and we did). Driving up the West coast was...
My husband and I have traveled three times to Iceland, twice in the summer and once in the middle of winter (January). We rented a car during our summer trips and drove up the West coast of Iceland, stopping for a few days in Stykkisholmer and Isafjordur before returning back to Reykjavik. We flew to Akureyri during our winter trip specifically to see the Northern lights (and we did). Driving up the West coast was challenging at times because of the nature of the roads, but was it ever gorgeous! I don't think any of the restaurants we visited in Reykjavik still exist, so no recommendations there. Frankly, we loved the Blue Lagoon in spite of its expense (heck, all of Iceland is super expensive, and it's whole lot more rejuvenating than Disney World).
Restaurants wise, I can't recommend ÓX highly enough.
It's got a price tag for sure, but a year later it's still the best meal I've ever had.
Oh - and the meat platters at Aphotek!!
Another vote for Óx from me. A wonderfully intimate, world class restaurant.
Fish market (fiskmarkadurinn) is a superb fine dining restaurant if you enjoy fish.
Echo that. Been to Iceland 20+ times and this plus Grillmarkaðurinn are by far the best.
Ever tried whale?
We stayed at Hotel Ranga when it was part of Hyatt in 2022. We loved it there. Suggest checking it. We saw amazing Northern Lights from there.
Eat at MONKEYS! it is in the heart of Reykjavik. Awesome food
Northern lights sightings depend on cloud cover and level of activity. Both are difficult to predict far in advance but there are apps that assist. If you are in Reykjavik and there is a good opportunity forecast to see northern lights based on a clear sky forecast and good levels of activity, then one option is to take a boat tour into the harbour late at night where there is less light pollution. Some people...
Northern lights sightings depend on cloud cover and level of activity. Both are difficult to predict far in advance but there are apps that assist. If you are in Reykjavik and there is a good opportunity forecast to see northern lights based on a clear sky forecast and good levels of activity, then one option is to take a boat tour into the harbour late at night where there is less light pollution. Some people drive to a darker sight, but the view from the harbour with the lights of Reykjavik in the background is enchanting. Dress warmly. The Blue Lagoon is good for a short visit after arrival at KEF. Most North American arrivals are early in the morning. Immediately after arrival, go to the Blue Lagoon, have a post flight shower (as you must), enjoy the waters and then head to your hotel in Reykjavik. Usually by doing so you will arrive at the hotel around lunch time. Have a nice meal, check in, and rest a bit. IcelandAir used to allow you to bid on upgrades to SAGA class from economy. There was surprisingly little uptake on these seats pre pandemic.
The Hotel Ranga is great. Last year, we were there for Christmas and then did New Years in Reykjavik. We were able to book back when we could on Hyatt points, even though the deal was gone by the time we were there. (Amusingly, points we earned from a Lindblad Antarctica trip, also booked while the Hyatt deal was live, but gone by the time we went.)
The hotel had warm, friendly service and delicious...
The Hotel Ranga is great. Last year, we were there for Christmas and then did New Years in Reykjavik. We were able to book back when we could on Hyatt points, even though the deal was gone by the time we were there. (Amusingly, points we earned from a Lindblad Antarctica trip, also booked while the Hyatt deal was live, but gone by the time we went.)
The hotel had warm, friendly service and delicious food. There was a storm while we were there, and we couldn’t leave the property for a whole day, but they took great care of us. The other guests were also interesting and friendly people. Mostly European. We wound up eating half our meals with new friends we made while there.
During your stay at Torfhús, see if you can go for the tomato-based lunch at Friðheimar, which is nearby. Located at a tomato farm, you eat in the greenhouse, which uses geothermal heat to grow plants year-round.
I set up a big Iceland trip for a client this summer that was pretty similar - Blue Lagoon - Torfhus - Deplar - EDITION.
Blue Lagoon is worth a stay, and 2 nights is perfect. The restaurants are very good and having the private area of the lagoon is really nice. Also, the "lava cave" area (private area of the spa with its own private lagoon area) is very cool, and the spa...
I set up a big Iceland trip for a client this summer that was pretty similar - Blue Lagoon - Torfhus - Deplar - EDITION.
Blue Lagoon is worth a stay, and 2 nights is perfect. The restaurants are very good and having the private area of the lagoon is really nice. Also, the "lava cave" area (private area of the spa with its own private lagoon area) is very cool, and the spa is great. Service at the Retreat is the low point.
Torfhus is really great. If you can swing "Torfvilla," it's a fantastic stay and comes with a private chef included. If you're not going to set up day trips in advance, the hotel can absolutely set some stuff up for you. As far as activities go, "Inside the Volcano" is very cool and there's a nice hike to get there, there's a husky farm not too far (it's not far from Blue Lagoon too), Silfra is worth a visit, visit Guilfoss Waterfall (and you can snowmobile up there, it's amazing), do a SuperJeep tour into Landmannalaugar, and more.
The EDITION is fine for what it is, and it is the best in the city. There's actually a great music scene in Reykjavik and at least you can walk everywhere.
Northern lights will just take luck. Not much more to it than that other than going into remote areas on snowmobiles or superjeeps.
Highly recommend Skál! in Reykjavik. We stayed at The Edition and had a few meals at the restaurant (Tides). The rooftop bar also has great views. The service from the staff is a highlight - they’re so personable.
ION is fine. Bit of a different landscape up there near the lake. The smell of sulfur is fairly strong though.
For a meal in Reykjavík, I'd strongly recommend Messinn. Not fancy, but the kind of meal that sticks to your bones. We liked it so much we went twice. https://www.messinn.com/en-gb
One of the few countries Americans can still visit and notice higher prices than at home.
Keep your northern lights expectations low. You will never see them with a naked eye in as vivid colors as in photos. The real thing is not that impressive, even during a strong geomagnetic storm in ideal conditions.
The real thing was still pretty damn impressive. I saw them move!
Living in a northern area I can attest that they can be spectacular. Still photos do not capture the movement, and while the camera on your phone will reveal more vivid colours than your eye on most nights when the display is just so so, on those rare nights of intense activity in a dark sky area the naked eye views with wavy, shimmering displays of multicoloured light can be magical. It helps to be lucky.
Not sure which northern lights you saw, but they are gorgeous, especially during strong geomagnetic storm.
While you are up there, can you do a review of the Costco that’s there?
hahahahahahahahahah thanks for the laughter
Its a solid Costco. Saw it and decided we had to stop. They were handing out samples of solid non-alcoholic beer and bought a very nice jacket
The Northern Lights have been crazy since September this year. A big show is coming in the next couple of days, should be able to see it in northern US. If you can see the sky, you'll see the lights. The problem with Iceland and places like coastal Norway is it is often cloudy/stormy on the coast. Go northern light hunting by yourself by self-driving and paying attention to the apps as to where to...
The Northern Lights have been crazy since September this year. A big show is coming in the next couple of days, should be able to see it in northern US. If you can see the sky, you'll see the lights. The problem with Iceland and places like coastal Norway is it is often cloudy/stormy on the coast. Go northern light hunting by yourself by self-driving and paying attention to the apps as to where to see them (no/light cloud cover.) Or take a tour where the guide will take you to the best place to view them based on conditions that evening.
I look forward to this review. I plan on visiting next June when AS begins service from SEA. Will be interesting to see how your hotel choices work out… I’m thinking of doing the camper van route and making it a true adventure around the island. Logistics seem a bit challenging though.
Forget Blue Lagoon unless you ve never been
Sky Lagoon, or better yet Hvammsvik.
The closer to the New Moon, the better. Weather notwithstanding, darker skies mean any aurora will appear more vivid.
Full moon? Not so much.
There also is a solar flare monitor site worth visiting.
https://www.swpc.noaa.gov/products/aurora-viewline-tonight-and-tomorrow-night-experimental
Good luck.
Lucky,
Emma Le Teace aka Emma Cruises, a massively-popular UK-based blogger did a trip specifically to see the lights. You can read her (detailed) trip report here:
https://emmacruises.com/i-took-a-northern-lights-cruise-heres-what-i-packed-clothes-accessories-more/
íslenski barinn in Reykjavik was a pretty good option offering some more exotic Icelandic foods, like whale (!!!). It was pretty good. I also went on a food tour to immerse myself in the Icelandic culture, and tried fermented shark (was not for me…)
Reykjavik Dining Rec: Flatey Pizza! sooooooo good
Ben, maybe consider Hótel Jökulsarlon. My sister was there two weeks ago and raved about it. Didn't hurt that they had Northern lights muliple times in eight days. She is Canadian based and had no driving issues.
Good idea staying at the airport. I stayed in the city and had an early flight the next day to Glasgow. I think all the flights to the rest of Europe are banked around 6am. Anyway, I took a collector van that picked up people at various hotels, then transferred everyone to a bigger bus to the airport. I think I was collected at 3:30am.
Also, great time to break in your 3x on foreign transactions on your Atmos Summit card. Iceland is $$$$.
Iceland has always been on my bucket list.
I've always wanted to do the Blue Lagoon and other hot springs as well as a snowmobile tour.
Is the Blue Lagoon still worth it?
If you fancy yogurt, get some skyr!
Ben- need your review of the Iceland penis museum badly:
https://www.phallus.is/
I’ve stayed at the Edition one night each of the past two years and it’s great. The hotel restaurant was good (better the first time, I think they had a new head chef this year). There are some fun food halls (I like Pósthús) right around there as well as the famous hot dog stand which I visited three times :-) also Iceland Street Food (sp?) is nearby with unlimited (yummy!) soup. Highly recommend 66°...
I’ve stayed at the Edition one night each of the past two years and it’s great. The hotel restaurant was good (better the first time, I think they had a new head chef this year). There are some fun food halls (I like Pósthús) right around there as well as the famous hot dog stand which I visited three times :-) also Iceland Street Food (sp?) is nearby with unlimited (yummy!) soup. Highly recommend 66° North despite the high prices - some of my favorite cold weather gear!
I second Icelandic Street Food. Great unlimited soup, and the cheapest meal I could find in Iceland, other than the Ikea and Costco food courts. ;)
For the inbound, go to edi and fly el 350 to Deb and go home on em new 777 biz
Ford’s definitely got the better itinerary with the DeltaOne lounge at JFK, and, even with the ancient 763, lie-flat is still better than anything on Icelandair, a LCC priced like a mainline. I feel for you, Ben. Safe travels either way!
Iceland Air saga soft product is actually better IMHO than business class on AA, UA or DL. Try the gin tasting menu.
Also the Saga lounge at KEF is one of my favorite lounges in the world. Pretty much have to be Saga Premium to get in.
I have never been able to find Delta One via Flying Blue! Any tips on how to do that?
I go to Iceland once or twice a year. Conditions should be fine. Definitely visit Sky Lagoon. It’s touristy, but fun. It seems everyone goes to Sandholt, and yes, it’s worth a visit. Otherwise, I enjoy the simpler Icelandic food—fish soup, lamb, etc. It’s not a fine dining culture, so I wouldn’t do fine dining. Enjoy the gin library on Icelandair! Service is actually quite charming in a Nordic sense.
Went there for 14 nights a couple years ago in December and saw nothing other than on the plane… too many clouds! But then saw them in Wyoming during the 2024 solar storm, go figures