Recently, I posed the question of where I should travel to see the Northern Lights. I’m actually planning on making a couple of trips to cold climates in the coming months, and I’ve decided that one of them should be to Iceland.
In this post, I’ll share my general approach to planning a trip to Iceland, and am hoping for some feedback. While I’ve briefly visited Iceland in summer, I’ve never been during another period of the year, so obviously this trip would be a bit different than my last one.
In this post:
Why we’re considering traveling to Iceland off-season
Usually I’m someone who avoids cold weather whenever possible, perhaps aside from our once annual ski trips (Ford skis — for me it’s more of a once annual apres-ski trip). 😉 This year, we’re going to Niseko, Japan, for our ski trip, which I’m super excited about.
However, beyond that, I’m planning a couple more trips to cold climates before summer. Maybe I’m just being totally delusional about my tolerance for cold weather, but here’s my general logic:
- It’s a great year to see the Northern Lights, so while I know it’s far from a guarantee that we’ll see them, it sure would be nice if that happened
- Living in Florida, it even just sounds kind of cozy being in a cold, dark climate for some time; places like Iceland also make it easy to enjoy the cold, from there being lots of fireplaces, to hot springs
- I’ve been meaning to visit Iceland again, and I know for sure I won’t have the opportunity this summer, so this is really my only chance, for the time being
To those who have visited Iceland during a period other than summer, I’m curious in general just how rough it is. The temperatures don’t actually look that bad (compared to other places in Northern Europe), though I know there can be strong winds. As a Floridian, will I survive these temperatures, or…? 😉
Along those lines, how do we feel about renting a car? I’d like to think that I’m a fairly competent driver, though to be honest, I don’t drive that much in snow. I know the answer is probably “it depends,” but is a huge amount of snow consistently an issue in Iceland, is it possible to avoid that problem, or…?
My strategy for flying to Iceland
I’ve written about the general challenge of redeeming points for flights to Iceland. Icelandair is the primary airline flying there year-round, and there’s no practical way to redeem points for business class on the airline. Furthermore, premium fares on the carrier can often be steep.
So as someone who likes to maximize value and review as many flight experiences as possible, my strategy is to first fly to Continental Europe, and then book a one-way Icelandair business class ticket back to the United States, with a stopover in Iceland. This offers the most attractive fares, so seems like the best option for my purposes.
The hotels we’re considering staying at in Iceland
I’m still trying to decide how many days to spend in Iceland, and I’m planning on staying at either two or three properties. First, I think it’s worth doing a couple of nights in Reykjavik. My plan is to stay at the Reykjavik EDITION, which is probably the city’s most luxurious property, and it’s also one of the points hotels that’s most on my radar. So that’s easy enough.
Speaking of Reykjavik, does anyone have any dining tips, for restaurants that are a must visit? I know the city has a great dining scene, so I’d appreciate any recommendations.
Next, I think we’d like to do a couple of nights in a more secluded area, which perhaps maximizes our chance to see the Northern Lights. Deplar Farm is without a doubt the most luxurious adventure property in Iceland, though it’s a bit more than I’d like to pay, so I don’t think we’ll be staying there.
Based on my research, I’m leaning toward one of the following three properties:
- ION Adventure Hotel is a Marriott Design Hotels property; I’ve heard mixed reviews of the hotel, though it’s the most reasonably priced of the options
- Hotel Ranga is a secluded property that I’ve heard good things about, and it’s part of Hilton Honors’ Small Luxury Hotels of the World collaboration, so I like the points angle
- Torfhus Retreat probably looks like the most charming option between these three choices, though has no points angle
Do any OMAAT readers have either positive or negative experiences to share about any of those properties? It seems it’s worth spending a couple of nights at one of these properties, but maybe not worth staying at multiple ones.
Now, here’s what I’m most conflicted about. Is it worth staying at The Retreat at Blue Lagoon, or no? The Blue Lagoon is one of Iceland’s biggest tourist attractions, and arguably it’s a bit of a tourist trap. When I visited the Blue Lagoon about a decade ago, it was one of my least favorite parts of my trip to Iceland.
However, is The Retreat at Blue Lagoon worth staying at? It’s mighty expensive, though it does look like it has great views, the restaurants are good (based on what I’ve heard), and maybe it makes the whole Blue Lagoon experience a bit more pleasant? Is it a worthwhile splurge for a couple of nights, or nah?
Bottom line
It has been roughly a decade since I’ve visited Iceland, and I think it’s time to return. This time around, I won’t be traveling in summer, though. My hope is to see the Northern Lights, but even if that doesn’t work out, it still sounds like a cozy and fun trip.
I’m trying to decide how to actually structure time on the ground in Iceland, particularly for where to stay outside of Reykjavik. I’d appreciate some feedback!
Any thoughts on this Iceland trip, or tips for where to stay, eat, etc.?
I went in October a number of years ago and it was certainly colder than the US at that time of year but nothing worse than winter in the US.
I really enjoyed the off-season especially once we got out of Reyjavik because there were no crowds! It was lovely. That does mean being more strategic about towns you visit and mainly meal plans because options can be very limited farther into the country (we...
I went in October a number of years ago and it was certainly colder than the US at that time of year but nothing worse than winter in the US.
I really enjoyed the off-season especially once we got out of Reyjavik because there were no crowds! It was lovely. That does mean being more strategic about towns you visit and mainly meal plans because options can be very limited farther into the country (we made it about ~35% of the way around the main freeway). I would avoid the Blue Lagoon hotel because that sounds like staying at a luxury property in Times Square. Even if it's nice, you're still in a terrible area from a tourist perspective... What I loved about Iceland was the tiny towns and nature that is so directly accessible when you get farther out.
Finally, driving is hit or miss. We mostly had perfect weather and then one night out of nowhere had the worst snow storm conditions I've ever driven in. We almost stopped and changed hotel plans because it was so scary. Think 90 mph wind gusts and white out conditions, mixed with the fact that there are no lights on their freeway (just reflectors on the edges) and we were driving through a mountain pass situation. The locals didn't bat an eye but I was terrified (and I grew up learning in the winter in the midwest).
Iceland generally has a mild climate because it's surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean, despite being at 64 degrees north. You'll need sensible warm clothes, for sure, but the temperatures are unlikely to be dangerously low like they can be in Yakutsk, for instance, which is at 61 degrees north but 1000km/620mi from the Pacific Ocean, so their max daily temperatures usually don't rise above -30c/-22F in January. Now that's cold!
Did it in March a few years ago. Landed and it was 6 with a 20 knot wind pushing it below zero. The weather can change quickly so just be prepared. Long underwear, warm jacket, gloves etc. Going in the off-season is the best as no crowds and easy to get around. You WILL need a 4 wheel drive and take all the insurance. The wind can pick up sand and literally strip the paint...
Did it in March a few years ago. Landed and it was 6 with a 20 knot wind pushing it below zero. The weather can change quickly so just be prepared. Long underwear, warm jacket, gloves etc. Going in the off-season is the best as no crowds and easy to get around. You WILL need a 4 wheel drive and take all the insurance. The wind can pick up sand and literally strip the paint off the car! Build in a buffer on airplane travel days, if the wind gets too high, all flights will get cancelled. With all that said we found it to be absolutely gorgeous, think you've seen something incredible, drive another mile for something better.
I remember reading your first Iceland review, can't believe it's been 10 years! #OG1Miler
@ JC -- Hah, thanks for reading for such a long time, I really appreciate it!
Have been to Ranga in late October. I like it - thermal baths, starwatching etc. Convenient to get to, but also accessible to some amazing scenery for the day. It's not the most incredible hotel, and it wasn't cheap, but it was a good option.
Who knows what weather you will have - but that's always true. Could also be true in summer. It's not that cold at that time of year - above freezing.
Visiting only in tourist season = you will always be a tourist. Visiting during off season = you will get to experience life as a local
I could give you lots of valuable advice, having traveled Iceland extensively many times, but I am so annoyed by your unwillingness to make it easy for readers to reject cookies on your website that I will choose not to share any information.
I stayed at Hotel Rangá using Hyatt Points when SLH was part of World of Hyatt.
I wasn’t particularly impressed with the standard room and wouldn’t recommend staying there solely for the accommodations. However, securing an advance upgrade to one of the suites might offer a different experience.
It’s worth noting that most guests seem to stop here for 1-2 nights as part of their Ring Road journey, primarily to dine at the restaurant for...
I stayed at Hotel Rangá using Hyatt Points when SLH was part of World of Hyatt.
I wasn’t particularly impressed with the standard room and wouldn’t recommend staying there solely for the accommodations. However, securing an advance upgrade to one of the suites might offer a different experience.
It’s worth noting that most guests seem to stop here for 1-2 nights as part of their Ring Road journey, primarily to dine at the restaurant for dinner. Unfortunately, we didn’t prioritize this and only experienced breakfast, which I found quite underwhelming.
Went to Iceland in March 2023. AirBnB in Reykjavik, Torfhus in the countryside. Strongly recommmend Torfhus. The basalt hot tubs are fun, the lodge is charming, and people are friendly.
We rented a car (Land Rover, actually) and it was no problem driving. We have one day of snow flurries and some of the roads were a little rough, but the car managed fine.
I'd avoid the Blue Lagoon. But if you can withstand cold, the snorkeling on the fault line is pretty fun.
We went in April and the temperatures were around freezing -- no big deal on paper. However we were underprepared for the wind which was quite powerful and cold. Make sure you bring enough hats and face coverings, especially with kids who might not tolerate cold that well.
Deplar Farm is indeed very expensive, but absolutely worth it. Also consider that all of your activities are included, so it's only the up front cost, and it doesn't get any better than their staff/guides (and food).
I am someone who loves renting a car and driving, pretty much anywhere I go, but it really doesn't get any easier than in Iceland. Driving there, even in winter, is incredibly simple.
Weather can't be...
Deplar Farm is indeed very expensive, but absolutely worth it. Also consider that all of your activities are included, so it's only the up front cost, and it doesn't get any better than their staff/guides (and food).
I am someone who loves renting a car and driving, pretty much anywhere I go, but it really doesn't get any easier than in Iceland. Driving there, even in winter, is incredibly simple.
Weather can't be guaranteed obviously, but it's actually fairly mild there, generally speaking.
One point of comment for your Niseko trip.
Staying in the Park Hyatt is Hanazono which is quiet and lacking restaurants. You'd be better staying in Grand Hirafu where there is the majority of restaurants, bars, and general Japanese charm.
Also do not rely on the trains. Heavy snowfalls cancel trains. It's safer to book transportation.
Highly recommend. Likely way less crowded. I went to Faroe Islands in October and it was great not having so many people on the space-limited islands.
I have tickets to Iceland in March and Torfhus retreat is book able with 65k Hyatt points through mr and Mrs smith
Btw
I was there last September and most of the locals said the roads will close easily for days at a time with no warning or timeline for opening during the winter. You can easily get stuck going or coming with no way out; regardless of 4x4 or whatever vehicle you may be able to hire. During our trip in what is typically labeled "shoulder" we saw the most incredible northern lights show - so it's possible outside of the darkest days.
I've been to iceland multiple times during all the seasons...
- usually its easier to fly through London & transfer to Iceland air at LHR
- avoid the Blue Lagoon, its a tourist dumpster fire
- Iceland has a northern lights forecast, but i've often gotten most lucky by just being there for 5-7 days and having 1 epic night. in particular, near Reykjanes where there are some cute airbnb's
- the lack of light...
I've been to iceland multiple times during all the seasons...
- usually its easier to fly through London & transfer to Iceland air at LHR
- avoid the Blue Lagoon, its a tourist dumpster fire
- Iceland has a northern lights forecast, but i've often gotten most lucky by just being there for 5-7 days and having 1 epic night. in particular, near Reykjanes where there are some cute airbnb's
- the lack of light will get to you during those 5-7 days, especially if the weather is foul
- you can rent a 4x4, studded tires are an option through a random rental company near the airport if i remember correctly... but driving while snowing is hectic. this is a total "know your limits" situation
- i've been there in Jan/Feb where it has been blue bird for 7 days... and snowed for 7 days. i would wager that the premium of booking this as a last minute trip is pretty imperative to your experience.
My wife and I took our twins (4 at the time) to see the Northern Lights in November 2023. Said Lights very nicely materialized.
1. Renting a car was no big deal. Very easy country to drive in, even in the winter.
2. If you're taking Miles, definitely consider an AirBNB.
Ben,
As long as you stick to the paved roads, you'll be fine in terms of the weather and driving. Seeing the Northern lights in Iceland is often a matter of luck based on their strong cloud cover, but if the conditions allow anywhere out of town will be a good viewing site. Stay for 3-4 nights to give yourself a better chance (not necessarily at the same hotel).
Having stayed at Hotel...
Ben,
As long as you stick to the paved roads, you'll be fine in terms of the weather and driving. Seeing the Northern lights in Iceland is often a matter of luck based on their strong cloud cover, but if the conditions allow anywhere out of town will be a good viewing site. Stay for 3-4 nights to give yourself a better chance (not necessarily at the same hotel).
Having stayed at Hotel Ranga a few years ago, it's rather a generic hotel/restaurant on a flat part of the island with nothing much to do. I much prefer Hotel Budir on the Snæfellsness peninsular which has an amazing restaurant, more attractive scenery with the Glacier in the background, and interesting towns such as Stykkishólmur to visit during the day.
Personally I would stay away from the Blue Lagoon. There are more authentic and less crowded laug such as Fontina North of Reykjavik. For me, Fiskmarkaðurinn is my go-to restaurant in the big smoke - great fish which I know is your thing...
As for Deplar Farm, there might be a reason their rates are $5k per night in February and it jumps to $10k per night in September. Oh, and there is a 3-day minimum stay. $30k to see the Northern lights? I think you can do it for much cheaper in Norway.
I think you might be romanticising the cold weather. We lived in Singapore and I used to love watching Shetland the detective series and dream of walking on the windswept moorland by the sea. Fast forward to actually being in Scotland and we couldn't wait to leave. Not so much being cold outside but always being cold inside!
Lol my current situation, used to live in Singapore, moved to Montreal partly thinking cold weather/snow looks cool. 3 years down and I'm looking for opportunities elsewhere to leave. It's depressing...especially the lack of sunlight
Grillmarkaðurinn and Íslenski Barinn are must try restaurants.
"As a Floridian, will I survive these temperatures, or…?" You will BUT make sure you dress accordingly. Usually people that are not used to cold climate don't know how to dress. They think that a very heavy parka is needed which is usually not the best option. You should dress in layers so you can add or take out as needed. You will need a warm jacket but probably not the heavy ones you usually...
"As a Floridian, will I survive these temperatures, or…?" You will BUT make sure you dress accordingly. Usually people that are not used to cold climate don't know how to dress. They think that a very heavy parka is needed which is usually not the best option. You should dress in layers so you can add or take out as needed. You will need a warm jacket but probably not the heavy ones you usually see people wearing. You will need a very good quality pair of gloves and waterproof boots, a warm hat and you should be good to go.
Since the Northern Lights is your objective, consider Yukon instead of Iceland. I know someone that went there in 2024 for 3 days and 2 nights and saw it twice.
No chain hotels there.
I went to Iceland in 2011 when it wasn't quite as popular and the Blue Lagoon was crowded. Although, this was in August. I flew Iceland Air last week and saw an advert for this place that looks so much better.
https://www.skylagoon.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAy8K8BhCZARIsAKJ8sfRNFgYuUidI9-W93ANMo7oSutmiqXzaBPf2fGYnXevNqOu7Lq_DGFoaAn_PEALw_wcB
Foodwise, I remember the lamb was amazing. They definitely take pride in it. Enjoy!
Also, remember to put your Alaska Mileage Number into your Iceland Air reservation!
I went to Iceland once about 15 years ago in March. It’s better than the Midwest weather wise and the crowds are clearly thinner. I don’t remember the hotel I stayed at specifically. Regarding driving, outside of the city, it’s pretty icy and I did see some cars skidding out on ice from my bus. In March there is a decent amount of daylight. It’s a decent time to visit if you can handle the...
I went to Iceland once about 15 years ago in March. It’s better than the Midwest weather wise and the crowds are clearly thinner. I don’t remember the hotel I stayed at specifically. Regarding driving, outside of the city, it’s pretty icy and I did see some cars skidding out on ice from my bus. In March there is a decent amount of daylight. It’s a decent time to visit if you can handle the weather. I really enjoyed my time there, even with the weather being a bit cold and windy.
Get a 4x4, and use main roads and you’ll be fine.
Ben, is there a reason why you are not considering flying from Newark to Nuuk and then on to Keflavik? Or maybe on Air Greenland's A330-800 neo to Copenhagen. If you fly from Copenhagen to Nuuk, chances are the weather will be bad, and you will end up in Keflavik anyway :) Thank you sooo much for all your posts. Another question, how do you make money from this blog???
There won't be much sunlight...